Essentials for 2.2L + N20?
the only evidence i can find is this
"In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing applications where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard."
looks to be copied from the NOS website, not positve:
http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm
"In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing applications where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard."
looks to be copied from the NOS website, not positve:
http://members.aol.com/agspeed/nos.htm
so you're thinking i can run a 50 or even 75 shot on 87?
then questions comes down to..
NITROUS EXPRESS Kit
Your Price: $569.99 USD + $39.99 Shipping
or
NOS Nitrous Wet Kit
Your Price: $499.99 USD + $39.99 Shipping
From Cobalt-Addiction.com
then questions comes down to..
NITROUS EXPRESS Kit
Your Price: $569.99 USD + $39.99 Shipping
or
NOS Nitrous Wet Kit
Your Price: $499.99 USD + $39.99 Shipping
From Cobalt-Addiction.com
Last edited by shawn672; Aug 24, 2007 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
ok. i found it. it says "First, ensure that premium fuel
(92 R/M Octane or better) is in the fuel
tank. Premium fuel will ensure maximum
safety and detonation resistance
for your engine." now i know its probably not necesary, but mostly for safety. also timing plays a role here aswell doesn't it?
not trying to be on the "bad side", but even in the instruction maual it says to use 91+octane. i don't remember the exact phrasing. im gona have to go home and look for it now. lol.
ok. i found it. it says "First, ensure that premium fuel
(92 R/M Octane or better) is in the fuel
tank. Premium fuel will ensure maximum
safety and detonation resistance
for your engine." now i know its probably not necesary, but mostly for safety. also timing plays a role here aswell doesn't it?
ok. i found it. it says "First, ensure that premium fuel
(92 R/M Octane or better) is in the fuel
tank. Premium fuel will ensure maximum
safety and detonation resistance
for your engine." now i know its probably not necesary, but mostly for safety. also timing plays a role here aswell doesn't it?
Timing would only come into play if you were reaching a level of unsafe measures. Any type of retarding would be done because of the knock sensor.
It sounds like a pre-cautionary measure, like you said.
I don't know everything about nitrous injection but from what I do know, I'm trying to see logically WHY someone would have to use higher octane if those 3 things I listed aren't a issue. Them saying in the instruction manual (use 91+ octane) is just like Hahn Racecraft saying "This is for off road use only"...liability and another step of pre-caution...UNLESS someone can show or explain to me in a other manner why it's necessary.
Rollerman!!!! Woot
Dude, do you have any pics of your setup and any other videos besides the explosion?
Also, what size shot do you use, and what were you using when your blew?
It looks like you only have a cat-back and CAI, do you think running nitrous on just those two mods is alright?
Tell me more about your setup, and what caused the backfire please! Thx man
Dude, do you have any pics of your setup and any other videos besides the explosion?
Also, what size shot do you use, and what were you using when your blew?
It looks like you only have a cat-back and CAI, do you think running nitrous on just those two mods is alright?
Tell me more about your setup, and what caused the backfire please! Thx man
Rollerman!!!! Woot
Dude, do you have any pics of your setup and any other videos besides the explosion?
Also, what size shot do you use, and what were you using when your blew?
It looks like you only have a cat-back and CAI, do you think running nitrous on just those two mods is alright?
Tell me more about your setup, and what caused the backfire please! Thx man
Dude, do you have any pics of your setup and any other videos besides the explosion?
Also, what size shot do you use, and what were you using when your blew?
It looks like you only have a cat-back and CAI, do you think running nitrous on just those two mods is alright?
Tell me more about your setup, and what caused the backfire please! Thx man
Blew up due to fuel puddling caused by window switch. As for running it with just cat-back and CAI, yes that's fine, would have been fine...just had the switch problem.
Not trying to thread jack, but here's some photos of the install:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/pictures-videos-64/new-mods-photos-nitrous-install-cf-hood-47045/
And here's another video that my friend took right after the install. 55shot here.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vEghVKdxxZw
Wow! Awesome setup. My only concerns are the window switch mostly. I'm pretty new to nitrous setups, so treat me like a noob 
It said in the video you had a window switch that activated when your WOT. This might be an issue for me, do they offer manual switches?
edit: the other issue..I'd like to hideaway my bottle, anyone got a good place in mind? what about under the reat seat?
edit2: And how did you only a run a 14.69? I would think, 140hp+75shot ~ 210hp, you should run close to 14.0, no?
It said in the video you had a window switch that activated when your WOT. This might be an issue for me, do they offer manual switches?
edit: the other issue..I'd like to hideaway my bottle, anyone got a good place in mind? what about under the reat seat?
edit2: And how did you only a run a 14.69? I would think, 140hp+75shot ~ 210hp, you should run close to 14.0, no?
Yes, there are manual switches, think of it like WOT when you activate the manual switch. Once the current is connect full circuit, nitrous will flow, just like WOT switch.
Hide the bottle? One place could be where your spare tire is but you'll probably still have a bulge not to mention you'd be out a spare tire
.
There are several things you must account for every pass that a car makes...: air temp, track conditions, driver error, tires, weight, so by having 200+ does not always = low times aka low 14s.
When I ran it was about 90 degrees out and the track was a bit greasy and people were spinning the tires pretty well. I did not have drag radials so that hurt me there big time. With radials, you could expect several hundredths of a second better on the time. The 60' time wasn't exactly the greatest which hurts the time as well.
Hope that helps some.
Hide the bottle? One place could be where your spare tire is but you'll probably still have a bulge not to mention you'd be out a spare tire
There are several things you must account for every pass that a car makes...: air temp, track conditions, driver error, tires, weight, so by having 200+ does not always = low times aka low 14s.
When I ran it was about 90 degrees out and the track was a bit greasy and people were spinning the tires pretty well. I did not have drag radials so that hurt me there big time. With radials, you could expect several hundredths of a second better on the time. The 60' time wasn't exactly the greatest which hurts the time as well.
Hope that helps some.
Yes, there are manual switches, think of it like WOT when you activate the manual switch. Once the current is connect full circuit, nitrous will flow, just like WOT switch.
Hide the bottle? One place could be where your spare tire is but you'll probably still have a bulge not to mention you'd be out a spare tire
.
There are several things you must account for every pass that a car makes...: air temp, track conditions, driver error, tires, weight, so by having 200+ does not always = low times aka low 14s.
When I ran it was about 90 degrees out and the track was a bit greasy and people were spinning the tires pretty well. I did not have drag radials so that hurt me there big time. With radials, you could expect several hundredths of a second better on the time. The 60' time wasn't exactly the greatest which hurts the time as well.
Hope that helps some.
Hide the bottle? One place could be where your spare tire is but you'll probably still have a bulge not to mention you'd be out a spare tire
There are several things you must account for every pass that a car makes...: air temp, track conditions, driver error, tires, weight, so by having 200+ does not always = low times aka low 14s.
When I ran it was about 90 degrees out and the track was a bit greasy and people were spinning the tires pretty well. I did not have drag radials so that hurt me there big time. With radials, you could expect several hundredths of a second better on the time. The 60' time wasn't exactly the greatest which hurts the time as well.
Hope that helps some.
oh and Garret Turbo's just posted a timeslip from their Turbo'd 2.2, ran a 14.8 LOL. 3500 gets you slower then N2O, of coarse it makes up in the long run not having to refill your bottle, thats if you dont blow your motor. IMO turbo is more dangerous then N2O.
**news flash**
all 2.2's who blew their manifold also blew their motors as well
the 2.4 manifold will do nothing for you in this regard.
also higher octane is needed because you are burning more air/fuel...a larger combustion is going to increase your chances of knock. nitrous lowers your intake temps but in actually works your motor harder than normal. this is also the reason why you run colder plugs...to prevent any detonation.
honestly if you're challenging it that much then good luck...can't imagine what you're going to be like when its time to get the bottle filled.
all 2.2's who blew their manifold also blew their motors as well
the 2.4 manifold will do nothing for you in this regard.
also higher octane is needed because you are burning more air/fuel...a larger combustion is going to increase your chances of knock. nitrous lowers your intake temps but in actually works your motor harder than normal. this is also the reason why you run colder plugs...to prevent any detonation.
honestly if you're challenging it that much then good luck...can't imagine what you're going to be like when its time to get the bottle filled.
**news flash**
all 2.2's who blew their manifold also blew their motors as well
the 2.4 manifold will do nothing for you in this regard.
also higher octane is needed because you are burning more air/fuel...a larger combustion is going to increase your chances of knock. nitrous lowers your intake temps but in actually works your motor harder than normal. this is also the reason why you run colder plugs...to prevent any detonation.
honestly if you're challenging it that much then good luck...can't imagine what you're going to be like when its time to get the bottle filled.
all 2.2's who blew their manifold also blew their motors as well
the 2.4 manifold will do nothing for you in this regard.
also higher octane is needed because you are burning more air/fuel...a larger combustion is going to increase your chances of knock. nitrous lowers your intake temps but in actually works your motor harder than normal. this is also the reason why you run colder plugs...to prevent any detonation.
honestly if you're challenging it that much then good luck...can't imagine what you're going to be like when its time to get the bottle filled.
What he said is basically the reason you would need a higher octane.
But I will say that if switching to a higher octane and spending a couple more dollars at the pump is that much of a issue, then I think performance isn't something you should be really getting into. That's the easiest and least thing you should worry about changing.
I made a statement earlier on why you actually need a higher fuel octane and what IonNinja is saying makes sense and I've also talked to quite a few other people who do have more experience with nitrous injection systems.
What he said is basically the reason you would need a higher octane.
But I will say that if switching to a higher octane and spending a couple more dollars at the pump is that much of a issue, then I think performance isn't something you should be really getting into. That's the easiest and least thing you should worry about changing.
What he said is basically the reason you would need a higher octane.
But I will say that if switching to a higher octane and spending a couple more dollars at the pump is that much of a issue, then I think performance isn't something you should be really getting into. That's the easiest and least thing you should worry about changing.
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
a couple of extra pennies at the pump is not an issue, but i'm not going to run 91+ all the time for no reason.
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
a couple of extra pennies at the pump is not an issue, but i'm not going to run 91+ all the time for no reason.
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
a couple of extra pennies at the pump is not an issue, but i'm not going to run 91+ all the time for no reason.
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
its just kind of a pain thats all, annoying more then anything as i'm not always gonna run 91. what is the rule with switching octanes? do you have to completely empty and drain the tank? can you have 1/4 tank of 87 and 1/4 tank of 91? hmm
You should check n2o prices in your area. The way your trying to work around the 91 octane I have a feeling youre going to **** a brick when you find out how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle.
You cant just mix the fuel. When I know Im going to be off the bottle for a week or two due to funds Ill run 87 but when transitioning back to 91 I run the 87 completely empty (30-35 miles after fuel light comes on) then I add $10 of 91, run that to nothing, then fill up on 91 again and spray.
You should check n2o prices in your area. The way your trying to work around the 91 octane I have a feeling youre going to **** a brick when you find out how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle.
You should check n2o prices in your area. The way your trying to work around the 91 octane I have a feeling youre going to **** a brick when you find out how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle.
cheapest I've ever gotten nitrous was $43 so 
maybe its just me but I don't even look at gas prices, I just fill up so running 91 all the time makes no difference to me. Its what, an extra $10 a month?
you probably could run 87 on nitrous but theres no tellin what might happen...its no different than turbo in regards to what you need to combat detonation.
maybe its just me but I don't even look at gas prices, I just fill up so running 91 all the time makes no difference to me. Its what, an extra $10 a month?
you probably could run 87 on nitrous but theres no tellin what might happen...its no different than turbo in regards to what you need to combat detonation.
To be extra safe you might consider upgrading to the GMPP rods. The rods are the weakest part of this motor and from what I've read I believe they'll only hold up to around 250hp. Also if you go with the GMPP rods you might also have to go with aftermarket valve springs.
You cant just mix the fuel. When I know Im going to be off the bottle for a week or two due to funds Ill run 87 but when transitioning back to 91 I run the 87 completely empty (30-35 miles after fuel light comes on) then I add $10 of 91, run that to nothing, then fill up on 91 again and spray.
You should check n2o prices in your area. The way your trying to work around the 91 octane I have a feeling youre going to **** a brick when you find out how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle.
You should check n2o prices in your area. The way your trying to work around the 91 octane I have a feeling youre going to **** a brick when you find out how much it costs to fill a 10lb bottle.
To be extra safe you might consider upgrading to the GMPP rods. The rods are the weakest part of this motor and from what I've read I believe they'll only hold up to around 250hp. Also if you go with the GMPP rods you might also have to go with aftermarket valve springs.
They were using over a 100 shot of nitrous when doing so and it wasn't progressive, so that's why the rods went so easily.
In reality, all the years I've been talking to people who have been running 75 shots and using forced induction, never once heard of anything snapping rods because of too much force being created. I've seen more blown piston ringlands than anything.
Last edited by NJHK; Aug 26, 2007 at 10:22 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
[QUOTE=NJHK;1375820]Why not?
welll maybe I shouldnt say you cant but this guy is just trying to take every shortcut possible. Personally I wouldnt mix the fuel. A few bucks isnt worth it to me.
QUOTE]
welll maybe I shouldnt say you cant but this guy is just trying to take every shortcut possible. Personally I wouldnt mix the fuel. A few bucks isnt worth it to me.
QUOTE]


