Going on the bottle
Going on the bottle
ok now i am going to get my K&N intake and full exhaust before i buy my nitrous set up.
but here are the two set ups i am looking at. what is the brand difference? quality? etc. etc. Also i was looking at doing direct port injection so i have less likelyhood of puddling in the intake manifold. thus less chance of blow back. yes i will get a step or two colder plugs and i would start small and maybe take it to 100shot at most.
all comments and suggestions welcome
NX
4 Cylinder EFI Piranha Nozzle
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/80004EFI.htm
OctaneSeries
Progressive Nitrous Controller
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/octaneseries.htm
15600 Nitrous purge valve (D-4 manifold, push button and vent tube)
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/PurgeValves.htm
15940 Heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater D-4
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/BottleHeater.htm
11708 NHRA blow down tube
ZEX
4 Cyl. Direct Port Nitrous System (50-200hp) PART #82030
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...NITROUSSYSTEMS
Racer's Tuning Kit PART #82001
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...OUSACCESSORIES
Traction Control Window Switch PART #82085
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...OUSACCESSORIES
ZEX DRY
EAA Ejector Air Amplifier™ $39.95
82011 "Dry" Nitrous System 55-75hp $566.95
82106 Sport Compact Nitrous Injection $27.00
82001 Racer's Tuning Kit $308.08
82085 Traction Control Window Switch $178.45
82020 Booster Fuel Pump Kit $188.95
_______________________________________
Total: $1,309.38
but here are the two set ups i am looking at. what is the brand difference? quality? etc. etc. Also i was looking at doing direct port injection so i have less likelyhood of puddling in the intake manifold. thus less chance of blow back. yes i will get a step or two colder plugs and i would start small and maybe take it to 100shot at most.
all comments and suggestions welcome
NX
4 Cylinder EFI Piranha Nozzle
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/80004EFI.htm
OctaneSeries
Progressive Nitrous Controller
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/octaneseries.htm
15600 Nitrous purge valve (D-4 manifold, push button and vent tube)
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/PurgeValves.htm
15940 Heavy duty fully automatic bottle heater D-4
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/BottleHeater.htm
11708 NHRA blow down tube
ZEX
4 Cyl. Direct Port Nitrous System (50-200hp) PART #82030
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...NITROUSSYSTEMS
Racer's Tuning Kit PART #82001
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...OUSACCESSORIES
Traction Control Window Switch PART #82085
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...OUSACCESSORIES
ZEX DRY
EAA Ejector Air Amplifier™ $39.95
82011 "Dry" Nitrous System 55-75hp $566.95
82106 Sport Compact Nitrous Injection $27.00
82001 Racer's Tuning Kit $308.08
82085 Traction Control Window Switch $178.45
82020 Booster Fuel Pump Kit $188.95
_______________________________________
Total: $1,309.38
Last edited by Dunkinuts; May 17, 2008 at 03:57 AM.
do not get a direct port system, get a wet kit.
allot of problems with going to the direct port including NOT being able to spray less than a 50 jet when u want to, tuning for the direct port and just the fact tht its useless on a 4cyl.
now, a wet kit is perfect, no tuning and relativly safe.
allot of problems with going to the direct port including NOT being able to spray less than a 50 jet when u want to, tuning for the direct port and just the fact tht its useless on a 4cyl.
now, a wet kit is perfect, no tuning and relativly safe.
well the whole point with doing direct port is to avoid that "relatively safe" part i want it to be as safe as i can make it. and with the progressive set up i should be able to tune it pretty easy.
bump anyone?
bump anyone?
Last edited by Dunkinuts; May 16, 2008 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
go wet man. its the safest way to go. dry kits involves messin with the jets over and over to get it right. and if you get a zex kit it has its own management system to keep it even more safe.
why in the world would u want a dry kit? so u can run like **** when not on N2o? because u tune for a dry kit, u DO NOT rely on ur car to automatically compensate for the fuel. A wet kit adds equal parts fuel and n20 making it safe. DO U WANT TO RUIN UR CAR?
QFT!! as i stated with the zex kit it will moniter the fuel and adjust accordingly thus makin it pretty safe and anyway you wanna look at it any wet shot is much more safe than a dry shot.
yeah but is puddling a major issue? also i hear that the 'noids burn out pretty "easy" on some set ups. and can't i plug and play some bigger injectors/ use that fuel pump booster??
Last edited by Dunkinuts; May 18, 2008 at 01:02 AM.
puddling is only a big issue when you try to spray off the line and bog it. when your at wot and spray the motor will suck all the n2o and fuel down without leavin any puddle in the mani. as far as the silenoids burnin out. cheap ones may burn out but if you go with a good brand then that shouldnt be an issue.
puddling is only a big issue when you try to spray off the line and bog it. when your at wot and spray the motor will suck all the n2o and fuel down without leavin any puddle in the mani. as far as the silenoids burnin out. cheap ones may burn out but if you go with a good brand then that shouldnt be an issue.
as far as i know to upgrade to wet you'd need a few more lines an extra silenoid for the fuel and a new nozzle for mixin the fuel and n2o. i dont know much bout doin injector swaps. sorry cant help you there. but goin over 100 shot isnt really safe for any off the 3 motors in the balts unless your willin to build the internals up.
but i was talking to my friend, engineer major, and he was saying go dry. mainly b/c its safer for the motor. since the dry stays a gas unlike a wet kit which goes to a liquid, you are pretty much just running really really really combustible air. sure you don't make as much power, but you run cooler and safer. and its cheaper. i can get a full set up for under 950 dollars.
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