Dry shot or wet shot. Also I seen this one kit that it says that you dont need a switch to activate it. It activates when you are at full throttle. heres the link from ZZP https://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt...=462&catid=143 would it be a good investment for my 2.4 to give me a quick bang for your buck so to speek?

 

If you can tune the injectors to give more fuel the dry shot is better, because you can tune it to run perfectly. Otherwise for just thowing it on a wet shot is the way to go.

 

Wet shot is better for most people as you don't need to tune the car specifically for nitrous. Dry shots work ok when tuned, but the car will run rich when not spraying on that tune. Wet shots are much more street friendly, and it can still be tuned by checking a/f and adjusting jet sizing until you get it where you want it. Ideally, nitrous should not change the a/f from what it was before.

As for the switch, WOT or wide open throttle switched are common, it prevents you from spraying until you are full throttle, as a safety feature. You can also add a button or window switch in series with that, to make sure it can only spray when you want it or between a certain window of rpms.

 

What HP shot would be safe for my engine 55hp, 65hp, or 75hp with my mods without the chance of me blowing my engine

 

you can do a 75 with no prob. Probably could do 100 safely, but I don't know for certain. I know a friend of mine sprays a 90 shot on his LSJ, along with other mods, and it has held up for a while now.

 

I beat a 98 Mustang GT buy like an inch yesterday with my mods now what do you think I could keep up with or beat with a 75 wet shot?

 

Cars with 75 more hp... I dunno. SS/SC type stuff, low 14 sec cars.

 

Pros and cons:
Wet: Delivers fuel with nitrous, if you're conservative worse case is running rich, don't have to worry about tuning as much because you inject after the MAF, kits are more expensive, you have to have an extra solenoid and make sure you have adequate fuel delivery. Puddling can also be a problem if you hose up jet selection really bad. I like wet kits. All nitrous kits have the potential of running lean, wet kits just are less likely because fuel is sprayed with nitrous.

Dry: Nitrous only, you bank on your car to provide the extra fuel. Less plumbing. I think you spray before the MAF but don't quote me, never used a dry kit. Simpler installation, less lines.

Go small shot first then slowly move up to bigger shot. IE go 35, 50, then 75 if it held up at 50. It's better to be conservative at first. If I were you I'd stick with 50, but I'm not you so its all in how much faith you have

 

umm ? do all kits come with that wot feature or jus selected

 

Most kits come with some sort of WOT switch. Zex uses an electric one, it taps into your tps signal and works off the voltage, the holley NOS one is a microswitch designed to be mounted near the throttle body to be triggerd by the linkage or behind the pedal to be triggered when its floored. Most use one of those two methods.

 

Yep, most have micro switches or some sort of mechanically activated electrical toggle but the coolest option is the window switch that activates at a certain RPM, setup for multiple stages of nitrous (50 then 100 say) and also has cutoff if your fuel pressure drops too low. I think MSD makes one, its expensive but replacing a rod costs three times as much

 

Fuel pressure cutoff is usually separate from the window switch.

I installed an NOS window switch for DBW vehicles on my dads truck. It combines a voltage WOT switch and user adjustable window switch into one little box, easily hidden in the fuse box. Settable in 100 rpm increments for on and off of the nitrous, along with a voltage setting for WOT engagement. All you have in side the truck is an activation switch, everything else is automatic. Box was ~$130 I think, but well worth it.

 

oh ok thanks for the info

 

BTW, the nozzle # does not have to do with HP gains it has to do with the flow rate of the nozzle