I wanted to start a place where we could clear up any Myths about nitrous... If you have heard something post it up and We can "Bust" it.

Ill start with one.

Nitrous oxide can Explode! Nitrous oxide is an oxidizer not a fuel. It will not burn by itself. Now it does accelerate the combustion process. Which is why we use it in our cars.

 

here is another:

myth: you can fill a bottle with an extra 1-2lbs of nitrous.

truth: no way it ruins the pressure curve! 10lbs of nitrous in a 10lb bottle means that the bottle is 2/3rd's full of liquid nitrous and the other 1/3 is gas. that 1/3 of gas is your pressure head. if you overfill you decrease the size of that pressure head and the nitrous can not turn into a gas fast enough. this is how you end up with a terrible pressure curve

 

when using nitrous, flames will come out of your exhaust, and they will adapt to the color of your car....

 

Nitrous will not, NAWZ has a chemical only known as "X" that does this.

 

heres another one

Nitrous does not cause you to blow the welds on your intake.

 

or. Nitrous is safe on stock internals but window switches are highly recommended

 

its not Nitrous, its NOS.

 

this i know is true. a smaller shot. 35-50, maybe even 60. is manageable on the stock internals. however, i would not go below a 2.9 pulley if you're spraying on the stock engine.

 

c'mon guys. lay off the fast and furious stuff for a little. lets get a little seriousness in here

i ran a 60 shot on gms2 for a long time, then moved to a 75shot on custom tune and then 100 shot on race gas and custom tune. car held up great. the 100 shot hit really hard though. if i was to do it again i would do it progressive

 

i'm trying to stay on the conservative side.

 

The Jokes were going to come for sure. I would like to keep it open to any serious things you guys have had posted here you disagree with or are simply unsure of.


And you guys are right its not nitrous, its NX

 

i recomend steering wheel switches, they are easier to access...

sorry i had to lol nuff jokes

 

Now that joke was worth it.

 

you all laugh but i rocked the push button on my set-up

purge


b&m transbrake button for spraying


how i would spray it. you wouldn't believe how fast i could still shift while doing this

 

I kind of have multiple questions so bare with me..

Is it safe to run an IC sprayer bar in conjunction with a small 35 shot off of the same bottle? If so, how long could I expect from one 10lb bottle to last?

As previously mention in my last question, I am looking to run only a small 35 shot. I would really prefer to run a dry shot due to the pain of tapping off of the fuel lines in the DI LNF fueling system. Is a wet shot really my best bet or is a dry shot safe (with propper tuning of course)? Oh, and I'm only looking to spray from 4500 - 6500rpm so is a window switch best, or should I spray manually?

And last but not least here.. Will a 35 shot yield more power than say a 5gph meth setup, and is meth the safer power adder here?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is something that I've been tossing around for a while now. I'm just sort of new to spray setups. N/A small and big block V8's are more of my forte..

edit: I found a testport on the fuel rail.. my mistake.. so a wet shot wouldn't be as difficult as I originally thought, however I still feel more confident in running a dry shot for the DI system. Definitely feel free to correct me on anything if I'm wrong

 

This is going to be a good thread. IF everybody stays a little serious.

Sub'd

 

i would jus tlike to insert this little tidbit here. there is nothing wrong with spraying manually as long as you don't hold the button down as you shift. window switches are meant to be used in order to maintain consistency. and it also helps with tuning knowing at what rpms to change the timing.

 

Nitrous doesn't blow engines, greedy people blow engines.

 

actually...it is the nitrous that blows the engine, just sayin. but them being greedy is what instagates it.

 

I agree there is nothing "wrong" with it. Its just a wot switch or tps switch is just so much safer and easier. I personally wouldnt ever use the button, even with my auto. Now that last part is in my opinion but the first is not. I think that its just a nice piece of safety for real cheap.

Pretty much. Along the same lines tho, Its very rare to see a piston that was simply over powered. What happens is the "tuning window" gets smaller with every increase in jet size, and eventually you were not spot on enough and the piston was either detonated on or rich/lean. When you take a non forged piston and start adding a large shot to it, the accuracy to which it needs to be tuned to survive can be very high.

 

i am still not understanding this "difficulty" to connect fuel to a solenoid on an LNF. there is a test port for fuel pressure right before the high pressure pump:

it is circled on red here

 

That is why I edited my comment on the end there. It's not so much that it would be difficult to tap off of the fuel rail, it's more in the whole fuel delivery design of a DI setup that I would be concerned about, more specifically the piston design relative to the injectors, plugs, and combustion chamber. You know what I'm trying to say here?

 

well the fuel is finely atomized by the time it hits the cylinders

 

yes this is of course very true, however it is also in a very specific and concentrated area on the piston. Unlike a port injected engine where the areal is much less concentrated and the fuel can safely spread about the cylinder and combustion chamber safely. This is where I'm not sure if things get sketchy or not. Is the area of combustion so tight and specific that detonation and misfiring is possible due to unburnt fuel? Again, I could be wrong but it seems to make sense that this could be an issue

 

the mk5 gti guys have been spraying for years. i have never personally sprayed a DI motor but there are tons of people who have. someone needs to be a guinea pig.