that would be trick to have everything hidden. like you damien have the switches hidden under the cup holder and the switch under the peddle. and then you could have the jets, fuel, and nitrous lines UNDER the intake. so everything is hidden

 

is that a glasspack on the exhaust? lmao gotta love the red and black

 

Yes, I originally hid EVERYTHING. The solenoids were under the fuse box, lines went under the intake into the wheel well and sprayed through there. Nitrous feed line ran from trunk to rear wheel well up the sideskirt into the engine bay around the front fender. Worked good, install was a giant pita though.

 

What are some tips for installing mine?

I want to hide as much as possible.. Getting a full kit soon..

 

your car is a 2006. you have plenty of room under the ABS module to hide the solenoids. you have to get a 90* fitting for the fuel rail to keep it hidden under the fuel rail cover. use wire loom and run wiring under factory harnesses

 

What do you mean by this? I'm trying to picture it in my head.. Not registering

 

for a WET nitrous kit, you need fuel. you get fuel from the test port on the fuel rail. a 90* fitting will allow you to keep the fuel rail cover on to keep the fitting covered

 

I get that.. But I guess I'll have to be looking at it to understand what exactly the 90* fitting would do to make it able to keep the cover on

 

you see how the fuel line comes straight up on my car? i had to drill a hole in the cover to keep it on. if you use a 90* fitting you can keep it under the cover

 

Perrrrrfect. Way easier to understand with the picture. Where can I get one of these fittings. Would it be universal? And how much would it cost me?

 

My set up , not much stealth



https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/files/2/0/3/9/5/2stage__overview.jpg

I don't know man , trying to post some picks but it ain't fuching working too good

I'm trying it again
[IMG]http://https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/files/2/0/3/9/5/n2o_switch2_thumb.jpg[/IMG



**** it ,still didn't work

 

Clean set up.

Heres mine. I just went a very simple route and havent changed it since.

 

 

Nice damien! Nice and simple.. I like it.

Fjord... How come it doesn't work! ****! haha send me an email with the pics plz? @ cl_baller@yahoo

 

Hey I sent you some shots of my set ups via e-mail, I think it worked.
Let me know if you get'um

 

Got em'!

Niiiice bro.. I'm lookin to get a good switch setup goin. How hard was your setup?

How did you do it exactly?

 

ur not gettin nitrous chris stop lying to ppl.
buy zachs u *****

 

Way ahead of you

 

o u bought it?
thata boy

 

The switches in my set set up are laid out as follows: in the center console in front of the cup holders from left to right are as follows, first you see the 12v outlet, then the 1st stage arming swithch, then the 2nd stage armong switch. The Red square button in the
purge button, the red toggle at the end is the bottle warmer switch. The panel left of the steering whel has the Cryo2 purge/pre-freeez button(blue) and the arming switch to the right of that. The red button you see under the steering wheel is the second stage (N2O)
firing switch, the first stage is activated by a NX-Express programable WOT switch. The
CO2 is activated by a micro switch mounted under the gas pedal on the floorboard (I have pics of that too if you like)
For the in stall it was really easy. I started by removing the cover that is arounf the e-brake it's a bitch but you a can wiggle it off from around the e-brake handle and clear fron the car. The lift out the cup, holders front edge first. The piece that goes around the gear shift knob and up under the dash is ,next depending on your transmission will dictate how
easy that will be , as you can see mine's a manual so the bottom ring around the boot
can be remove , then you can get the cover out of the car.

Lay out your switch arrangment, mark and drill your holes. I found that a "spade type" drill bit used for wood working (you may remember this from woodshop in HS)works the best on these plastic parts. They only cost a few bucks . Use masking tape to cover the peice your working on to make and check your marks, like they say measure twice cut once.
I have not found a way to plug a hole with a drill yet. Be mindfull of the brace work in the dash when laying out your panel not only on the panel but the are some steel brackets
in the dash. Install wire up and replace in reverse order. There a lot of empty spots in the fuse box located on the passenger side left kick plate. A simle 12v tester will help you find hot and cold terminals. Be sure to have your key to the ACC position to find those
"Switched Ignition Sources"

Under the hood I recomend zip ties and split conduit when ever possible. The braided hose can take vibration but most things under you hood can't, plus it gives a it an OEM look too. I have the polyurethane tranny mounts and the Ingalls torque dampner, these create a lot more vibration over the stock set up, but I love, it you can feel the engine and makes a huge difference in acceleration.

If you can figure out how to post the pictures is sent you please feel free, beause I sure as hell can't.....................

 

Damn! Not gonna lie a couple things confused me there.. Fjord.. You're running 2 stages and a Cryo2 kit so you're experienced with the stuff. Could you PM me your phone # since I will be installing this soon and I want a clean setup? If you don't mind...

 

does he have the cryo set up threw the h/e?

 

this guy chillin to make sure my bottle don't move around-

and this guy to refil my bottles once i am out-

but really. my setup is the same as BLAZIN07SS. well almost. i have 2 buttons (one for the bottle warmer and the other one to active the solinoids) there mounted on a visa credit card. never got around to spray painting the card black but there both in the middle mounted in the card and the card doesn't move around. i can post up pic's later tonight of that. then under my 2 cup holders in the front i have a GIANT door bell button which i hold like BLAZIN07SS holds his in the pictures. i do things a little more ghetto. i want to keep it as inexpensive as i can. lmfao. one day i'll clean it all up.... ehh maybe

 

I have a CXRacing H.E. mounted up under the front bumper. The coolant flows from
the manifold to the stock H.E. then to the front mount H.E. and back to the manifold.
The spray bar for the CO2 system is mounted on the front mount H.E. This way it's
cooled once then again from fresh cold air from the very front of the vehicle.
That stock H.E. design arraingment must have been done on a Friday because it's pretty lame.
one not is I had to have the DEI spray bar customized to fit the CXRacing H.E.

 

i was thinking about doin that but ppl said i wouldnt benefit from it