I have heard lots of people talk about making more power with their two liters however the discussion always seem to center on how much boost can be made with what pulley etc. The traditional methods of power production for NAS motors also applys here IMO,yet I have heard no discussion on camshaft profiles or cylinder head improvements..
This is my first foray into electronicaly controlled forced induction,so it may just be I'm behind the learning curve.Constructive comments only please.Thanks.

 

you are 100% correct, those methods will be needed for bigger numbers.. as the cylinder head will definately need work..

But the reason you always hear about the pullies is becasue for HP/$ you cant beat it. This is true up to a certain point before the heads and cam come into play.

If heads and cams were as cheap and easy as a pulley, you better believe you'd see many people with those mods.

 

Yes,I agree that that pulleys let's say,are considered cheap HP.But if you try three pulleys,two sets of injectors and tune it a couple of times,and then break a valve spring,how inexpesive is it really?I guess because of my age and background I do things the old way.Lay a bullet proof foundation(short block)Enable it to breathe effortlessly,and THEN bolt stuff on the outside.On the other hand a pulley change is something that most owners can accomplish on their own.I only wish I was not so technicaly challenged by the electronics and fuel/spark management that is required.I can plug in a USB cable but that is about it.

 

Well these valvetrains are good for 7000+rpms, the stock shortblock can easily handle in excess of 350hp. You'd be surprised how much power you can put down with a good tune on the stock longblock (dont listen to most on here saying that it cant, they blew up thier motors for lack of tuning knowledge/experience)

So i guess its not like most stock NA engines that require lots of "strengthening" to get good boosted numbers from.

 

Just finished a little research,and you are spot on.The lower end is considerably more robust than I had anticipated.The GMPP cylinder head is a little over $1400 which IMO is not out of line and money well spent.This is a street car so it must retain it's manners,but a cylinder head and some extra boost should be a good step in getting what I want from this car.Expect questions about fuel management i the future.Thanks for your input

 

Cams are not super important with these cars. A good tune with the basic mods (and a clutch) goes a long way. Some valve springs and balance shafts so you can rev to 8k would top it off nicely.

 

I beg to differ, cams would help quite a bit. Increasing the engines volumetric efficiency will lower boost and allow more airflow..

I dont care if you can rev to 8k.. if i can get more air into my engine.. i'd be happier.

 

the probelms these motors have with just making boost and not building the rest of the motor is, breaking head bolds. It take the whole package to do it right. However, doing the whole package at once, tends to **** the wife off. LOL

 

I've inadvertantly made my wifes car faster than my own,so she'll have to get over it.I tend to agree with you here,all parts used must be friends with each other or it is money spent needlessly.This is the first I have heard of head bolt failure,have you heard of any documented cases?

 

Yeah. Myself
with all my bolt ons, my stock head bolts snaped like twigs. I figured why I had the head off I would change it. I have found that these balts are not the easiest cars too work on but in the inn it's all worth it.

 

Are you using studs now or just better bolts?Where did they fracture?