That's what I get for not pointing out that 1 bar (14.5psi) on the boost gauge means the car is actually ingesting 2 bar (28psi) absolute.
This guy gets it.

You can run 3.5", won't hurt anymore than just running an open turbo really. Less back-pressure is better. Your only hang up is space, if you can make 3.5" work and have a ton laying around I'd just use it.

 

I understood what you meant but what you said and what you meant were two different things lol

 

Re-reading it yes, I see how that could get mixed up. Fixed that now lol

 

Knuckles are on. On Sunday I'm going to go draw up a rough block to match the engine / trans and start modelling a chassis around it.

 

Since I finalized axles I started taking measurements and obsessing over the chassis. So far this is where I am at:



Just kind of moving the seat, drivetrain, and everything around to achieve acceptable ride height, driveline angles, and chassis clearance. I can also print this up from a side view and start drawing ideas for what I want the chassis to look like.

 

CAD work on the chassis is coming along nicely. I'll post pics soon. It would be nice to be able to move my seat back a few inches if at all possible though. To do this the alternator has to move to the other side of the engine or down low where the a/c compressor was. Does anyone know of any options for this?

 

Im sure you can make a bracket for it but you may end up with a custom belt then

 

You're not aware of a different application that places the alternator somewhere else then?

 

the alternator on all the ecotecs in in the same place. cant think of an other application were you would bee to move the alternator either

 

Thanks. That's what I was needing to know.

 

I've got most of the chassis laid out in SW now. Shouldn't be long before I'm bending and rolling tube:

 

Not low enough

 

Haha. In comparison to a cobalt?

 

If you can see my sig youll understand haha

 

Oh yeah, no sigs in the mobile version.

 

So how long until you start cutting tube? What material are you using?

 

1.5 x .120 DOM with 1.5x.188 mixed in strategic places that will see hard hits from rocks. I've still got a lot of CAD work to do. I've got to design the suspension and brackets as well as create a compartment for my legs and pedals. I want to put as much into CAD as I can just as an exercise to learn. Radiator, intercooler, brackets, fuel cell, etc. Maybe start cutting and bending in a month or so.

 

definitely good to have it planned out rather than just throwing ot together like i normally do

 

Not a structural engineer, just my 2˘.

I don't like the space the driver is supposed to occupy, cage comes way too close to the head and is at a really shallow angle to the front. I would think the driver's A-pillar would be relatively easy to mash into the driver's space. Is the top crossbrace and roof section supposed to be level with the ground? If it's not I think a helmet would basically sit on the back side of the X section there.

 

It's not done yet, I just posted a pic now because you can see the overall look.

There will be an additional a-pillar there to help support the primary, which is more than most buggies get.

The roof is not supposed to be level to the ground.

The size of that seat is deceiving. I didn't bother modeling it super-accurately since there really is no good way to do so. So I just modeled it to max dimensions. My head doesn't come very far above the top of the seat in reality. (It is a tall seat.) The general rule of thumb is to leave 6" above the top of your helmet, which I did in my last rig. The problem with that is that it doesn't account for how much these suspension seats sag once they're broken in. My last buggy I used that rule but then after the first few trips out the seat sagged 6" and the interior suddenly became cavernous. I could have made the roof 6" lower in the end. So on this one I've cut it close as best as I can measure myself in the drawings. That being said, I haven't had anyone around to actually measure me in the seat yet. I've just been going by the best dimensions I could possibly take of myself while sitting in it, which is very difficult. As such, I've left the roof height easily adjustable for when I do have someone to measure me. I've got someone coming to the shop tomorrow to have me weld some intercooler pipes for him. I'm hoping to get him to measure me with my helmet on while he's there.

 

If your helmet sits where you say it does relative to the seat top then I think you have a good design with that extra A-pillar. I was just picturing a much larger person in that seat with its dimensions

 

Anyone have an advice on how to properly size an air to air intercooler?

 

I was always under the impression you don't want hard bends in your roll cage. Especially the section surrounding the driver.

 

Every rock buggy on the planet is in violation of that rule then.

 

Based on the HP Or flow rating given by the manufacturer