patooyee

What pressure would one of those open at?

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

its a bypass, not a pop off valve, they done open at a specific pressure. they will open when there is vacuum in the intake manifold (meaning vacuum on the nipple of the valve, or the top side of it) and pressure in the charge pipe (bottom of the valve).

patooyee

What is the functional difference between that and something like the tial that I posted earlier?

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

the function is exactly the same

patooyee

The one that yelloweye posted specified one for 1.x liters and two valves for 2.x liters. So obviously there is a size consideration to be made?

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

it doesnt have much to do with engine displacement, turbo size and boost levels are the factors for them. if its too small you will end up with compressor surge, exactly what you are trying to eliminate by using a bypass valve. i would think one of the vw style valves would be enough, but really bigger is better.

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

If you were running the stock K04 that comes on the LNF you can just use the one that's built into it. But with the BNR GT2871R I think you need a separate bypass valve. Thankfully it's got a built in wastegate so you won't need one of those too.

patooyee

Despite the fact that their web site does not show it, I can confirm that the Level Zero intake flange does in fact come machined for the crankcase orifice after receiving it. I'll post a pic later.

patooyee

Couple randoms from the other day at the shop. I've only been tig welding for a year or so, and not what I would even remotely call regularly. Learning new skills and information is about 80% of the fun for me.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

whats that top part? modifying the water pump cover some more?

patooyee

Yes. It's a -20 female o-ring bung welded in. I started with this:


ARP Weld Bungs 800-8117 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

I had to turn it down just a little and shorten it to fit in the housing but it comes unnecessarily long and thick, I assume specifically so that I can do what I did. This will thread into it still with length to spare:


Meziere AN O-Ring to Smooth Hose Adapters WN0032S - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Also while I was having fun with the TIG and lathe I made my own oil feed adapter for the port in the block using a bolt and a spare -6 fitting I had laying around:



I ordered an M12x1.5 adapter for the oil inlet port on the turbo and then BNR PM'ed me back on FB saying that that port is actually m12x1.75. If that's true I'll probably end up making another adapter like I did for the block.

Right now my plan is to make hard lines for the oil and water on the turbo. But we will see how that goes ...

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Once you get the manifold and the turbo on it becomes kind of a tight fit back there. Id check to make sure it fits.

patooyee

I've got them on now, just haven't taken a pic since I did. It should all fit. I might have to make my own 180* mandrel bent pipe to get around the corner but that isn't a big deal.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I meant for the oil feed line. Not sure if you got what i meant.

patooyee

Oh yeah. I used the far back port instead of the front. Just didn't see the point in trying to cram everything up near the water neck.

patooyee

Being that my intake flange does have the PVC orifice machined into it, my plan will be to tap the hole and run a line with a check valve to a vacuum fitting that I will weld into my custom intake. The hose fitting on the valve cover will just have a hose attached to it going to the intake tubes before the turbo, MAF, and TB but after the engine air filter?

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Pre-turbo, post-MAF is the stock configuration.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. I would definitely put it after the maf if youre planning on putting the maf on the intake. Otherwise if youre running a blow thru maf the intercooler will catch most of the oil. Or you could use a catch can. I got a decent mishimoto one on ebay for around $100.

patooyee

Good point. I didn't consider the oil on the MAF. I will put it after the MAF.

patooyee

The oil port on the turbo turned out to be m12x1.75 so I made another fitting there and also welded a bung into the oil pan for the return line. (The water lines are m14x1.5, BTW.) I got a shipment in from Summit with the stuff I needed so I made both the water lines and the oil drain line out of hard lines. Forgot to take pics, will get some up later. I still need to make the oil feed line anyway.

Also ordered some material to start on the intake with:





The d-shaped stuff turns out to be a lot bigger in life than it seemed in the pics so I am thinking of cutting it down or something, possibly not even using it. I'm going to draw it up in Solidworks before I cut anything and go from there. I'll start on that this week. The oval stuff is the perfect size for the Ecotec intake ports though.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Was the D part going to be the manifold itself? Obviously the other piece is for the runners.

patooyee

That was my plan. But its so big that it blocks access to both the top and bottom sets of flange bolts. I might french some access tubes into it if I use it but that's a lot of work just to compensate for the wrong material choice.

patooyee

turbo all plumbed up

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Damn dude looks good. What size feed and drain?

patooyee

-6an for everything.