yeah both those things should def be checked


btw Seafoam is the **** man... my poor neighbors thought my lincoln was on fire when I did it..
I kept hearing voices around me but saw no-one.. ended up my one neighbor was about 12 inches away from me.... lol

 

It's fuel delivery (my take on it) I would start at the pump if it were me.

 

MAF gets my vote.

 

i through a similar or the same CEL. It was the gas cap. Just make sure it's on there tight.

 

Umm.. HONDAS DONT USE MAFs!!111!1!!!!one!! Damn dude. All their sensors are built into the TB and do NOT use a MAF like the ECOtecs do.

 

So I guess I will probably be busting out my multimeter and testing all of my electronics based on the information in my haynes service manual.

I really need a garage 9 degrees is not cutting it for me

 

Hack, Go on line and get a CD factory service manual off e-bay. I got one for my daughter's '94 for under $15 shipped. It will provide you with a heck of a lot more info than the Haynes! Doo it.....dooo it nowwww

 

problem is i'll need two

One for my CRX and One for a B18A1 Integra

 

OK.....$30 bucks for real and useful knowledge

 

lol, well for now the haynes manuals will do, as soon as i figure out what's causing my problems I will correct them. Then once I have a good stable running engine, I will pull the head and swap my pistons

 

hey hackabuse, why not leave the option open for when tuning is available and build up the motor as well as turbo on the balt????????? when tunning is ready, ill prolly do some cams and a blower with a smaller pulley! since the gm kit fits our car!

 

well now that he has the honda, the cobalts already been stripped and its a lease anyway. so its gonna be returned sooner or later. then buy or lease another car depending on what he likes

 

ah.. what all mods did he have done to the balt? he had the same model i did

 

look at his part out sale in his sig. click on it

 

Hey Jeff, a friend of mine did a motor swap on his honda accord, his motor wouldn't go past 4k, turns out he had the wrong wiring harness in for the motor he put in. I don't know how you would go about checking it...but thats my guess!

P.S. check out this honda...it was a buddy of mines and he did awesome at auto x in it!
http://www.team-crm.com/vid060406.shtml click on Adam Koback's runs! Its a 91 Hatch with a D16 but it was crazy fast!

 

I know why it's not going pass 4 grand...

Tell your boyfriend to get off your lap LOL

 

I have a question. You seem to be spending a lot of time diagnosing the engine. Don't you plan on rebuilding it anyway? Or at least pulling it? Save your effort since you'll have to take it all apart anyway.

 

I was just going to be swapping the pistons, but I'd really like to pinpoint the problem frist.

 

Well...then you're taking out the engine anyways right?

Also, how come just the pistons?

 

The head has already been milled and bored/resleeved .020" over, with an all new valvetrain and bottom end, just 2 thousand miles ago.

I don't plan on removing the engine to replace the pistons anyway. Just drop the oil pan, bust off the head, and swap those bitches!

 

Yeah, pistons pretty much means engine. Whatever the problem is will either become apparent during the process or correct itself in the course of the build.

But, I think its your valve stem oil seals leaking oil past your valve guides.

 

Wouldn't that cause me to lose compression though?

 

No. Compression is maintained by the valve face seating well on the valve seat. The oil in the cylinder head is prevented from leaking down the valve guide by the valve seal. Escessive oil on the stem, exhaust specifically, will burn off when the valve opens. Compression has nothing to do with it.

 

I think i might need to have my timing adjusted, any idea how much a shop would charge me to get that done?

 

Which timing? Cam? Ignition?