To reply to all the above...

The engine is all broken in. I have 12K miles on it now since the build. It runs perfectly.

The transmission won't shift early. Actually, what makes you think that? At WOT, the stock TCM program shifts at redline. And even if I did want to make some adjustments, I can. The TCM is flashable and has aftermarket support.

The goal for this car is and always has been the same. A 100% street and emmisions legal automatic trans car with the most possible reliable horsepower. Not cheap obviously, but the Cobalt was perfect for it. Given the Ecotec history and what I have learned over the past 2 years, the car will be able to make well over 300 WHP on pump gas, all completely reliable and legal.

BTW, the list of "Mods" isn't that at all really. Those are my planning notes that I just pasted in here. I do have a lot of that stuff, but not all of it.

 

EVOs cost what.... 30k???? he paid about 14k for his car??? 14+17 = 31k. not muh different at all is it....

 

just drop the evo **** ****** a

 

What kind of #'s are you hoping to put down?

 

Will someone release tuning for the L61 already!!!! I've awaiting a long time for you to get this finished.

 

Its your money do what you do.. ill save my money and just buy my next car

 

ummm.... ever hear of changing the shift points?? guess not... at WOT the auto will shift where?? ding ding! redline! yay for knowing what we're talking about! he said his redline will be raised to 8,000

who cares about losing to a "lightly Modded" ss/sc... he said this setup is giong to be aroudn 350 whp, on 93 octane, more on 110... so i doubt he will be losing to any "lightly modded" 2.0's... and, for the record, not everybody sets out to be able to beat a 2.0.

why can't we just keep it on topic?

 

Also, are you saying you dont recommend the Bates Engineering valve springs? Anything else you dont recommend thats used in the build book?

 

If you are upgrading your valve train, have a good reason. The stock train is excellent. You only need to upgrade your valve train if you are planning on pushing 300 HP, spinning faster then 7000 RPM, or using high lift cams.

I am now using Ferrea parts. They have been flawless, and are dual coils, so if there is a failure, it won't drop the valve.

The build book doesn't actually recommend changing the springs for the 400 HP build. They show you the minimum you NEED to do. They show how to do a build without removing the engine from the car.

If you are going to do it, take the engine out and do it right. Get the block hot tanked and honed. Replace all bearings. Use studs, not bolts. And do all of it on a core engine and take your time and do it right. Once it's done, swap the engine into the car for minimum down time.

This is not cheap. Nor should it be.

 

It kind of goes around my question, but OK. Doing it "right" is a matter of opinion, and although your build will take more of a beating (higher HP rating) some of us just want insurance and don't plant to go all the way to 400HP, so changing just the pistons and rods without pulling the engine is much better then nothing, especially if you are hovering around the 250HP limit.

 

Over a year now Whats the good word?

 

Wow, here's an old thread of mine...

Well, I took a new job and moved about a year ago. So the car got back-burnered. I'm now saving to buy a home, so there is no discretionary income available for the project.

The good news is that all the necessary parts and technology exist now, so once I get rolling again, I should be able to completely finish the thing. But don't look for that to happen for at least a year.

 

Well atleast you waited for the tuning to be available.... because that would be a damn shame to drop that much money in it only to be a 15 second car!