The MP5T
09-10-2009, 08:01 PM
#226
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Everytime I peek at this thread I see more parts u bought and are putting into it. I cant help but think to myself:
"holy ****. Is he ever going to be done building this car?"
09-13-2009, 06:35 PM
#230
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The stock ECU controls the alternator.
I do not have any part of a stock ECU, so my alternator has been completely modified inside.
The Red switch provides the FIELD for the alternator to charge.
The Green Thing is a Blank Uncut Key.
It is a reminder to turn on the switch BEFORE the key goes in..
If I have to remove something from the ignition before the key goes in, there is a better chance that I will remember.
So the RA-10 Actually looks like this...
I will have to find a way to make it more sealed. I have already bought a weatherproof connector which is totally sealed both in and out.
The unit remains open during testing, but once the basic settings are done, the cover goes back on with the gasket in place.
I do not have any part of a stock ECU, so my alternator has been completely modified inside.
The Red switch provides the FIELD for the alternator to charge.
The Green Thing is a Blank Uncut Key.
It is a reminder to turn on the switch BEFORE the key goes in..
If I have to remove something from the ignition before the key goes in, there is a better chance that I will remember.
So the RA-10 Actually looks like this...
I will have to find a way to make it more sealed. I have already bought a weatherproof connector which is totally sealed both in and out.
The unit remains open during testing, but once the basic settings are done, the cover goes back on with the gasket in place.
09-15-2009, 11:12 PM
#231
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So an Update on the ideas in my brain.
The ECU delivers fuel and timing as a function of..
Engine Speed
Manifold Pressure
The faster the ECU can read the MAP, the better the fuel and ignition delivery will be.
So, the current MAP is built into the ECU and is connected to the manifold via a silicone hose. It is short, but I noticed a huge improvement when I reduced the length of hose. My idea is to get a 30 PSI MAP sensor that does not use a hose at all. Instead, it has a 1/8" NTP thread, I plan to remove the manifold and tap a hole into it.
The MAP will be directly attached to the Manifold, this would remove as much lag as possible and make fuel and ignition as accurate as possible.
How Lag Manifests: Lets say you have a long hose, the time difference between a rapid throttle application and when the sensor actually moves creates a temporary lean condition. This happens at exactly the wrong time, it can be compensated by what is known as a Throttle Pump Delivery. This throttle pump reads a quick change in position based on the TPS which is electric and thus instantaneous compared to the MAP. It is difficult to set if the MAP has LAG because the results are not linear.
The MAP Looks like this..
Had a Question from a forum member about the installation/modification of the timing system.
36-1 +HOME
The Home has to happen on the Cam 5 teeth before the missing tooth occurs on the crank on the rotation before cylinder 1 is ready to begin it's cycle.
By setting the timing gear like this, it will place the HOME in the correct location. Install as per normal using the new timing mark.
I used a 2 Tooth and 70 Degrees offset.
Let me know if there are problems.
The ECU delivers fuel and timing as a function of..
Engine Speed
Manifold Pressure
The faster the ECU can read the MAP, the better the fuel and ignition delivery will be.
So, the current MAP is built into the ECU and is connected to the manifold via a silicone hose. It is short, but I noticed a huge improvement when I reduced the length of hose. My idea is to get a 30 PSI MAP sensor that does not use a hose at all. Instead, it has a 1/8" NTP thread, I plan to remove the manifold and tap a hole into it.
The MAP will be directly attached to the Manifold, this would remove as much lag as possible and make fuel and ignition as accurate as possible.
How Lag Manifests: Lets say you have a long hose, the time difference between a rapid throttle application and when the sensor actually moves creates a temporary lean condition. This happens at exactly the wrong time, it can be compensated by what is known as a Throttle Pump Delivery. This throttle pump reads a quick change in position based on the TPS which is electric and thus instantaneous compared to the MAP. It is difficult to set if the MAP has LAG because the results are not linear.
The MAP Looks like this..
Had a Question from a forum member about the installation/modification of the timing system.
36-1 +HOME
The Home has to happen on the Cam 5 teeth before the missing tooth occurs on the crank on the rotation before cylinder 1 is ready to begin it's cycle.
By setting the timing gear like this, it will place the HOME in the correct location. Install as per normal using the new timing mark.
I used a 2 Tooth and 70 Degrees offset.
Let me know if there are problems.
Last edited by Brian MP5T; 09-15-2009 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-10-2010, 12:44 PM
#239
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Big Update Since the Fall.
First ride of the year.. 03-20-2010
No Heater...
No Wipers...
No Problem..
100Km Round trip..
New Goodies.
Summer Spare Engine.
Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods
3.288"
Made some progress with the teardown.
Valves are getting redone as the engine had 177,000Km on it.
This should let me get the head ported a bit and with new springs and shims, should run perfect.
The engine is going to get it's own, Alternator, Clutch, Flywheel, Transmission and Quaiffe LSD.
It will be a drop in powerplant.
I'll fire up some more pictures but this is what I got now..
Rebuild starts Tuesday
Engine goes to Renfrew for a week
Yesterday and Today spent much time installing a Haltech RA-10
The Protege uses Two Variable Reluctor Sensors to tell the ECU where the engine is, (Timing Crank and Cam)
They generate tiny pulses of AC current and require a logic circuit to read. The pulse looks like a heart beat on a graph with a rising and falling edge. Every event makes a positive and negative bump in the graph.
I had massive trouble making a VR signal reliable. I had to triple shield the trigger and home signal wires...Run them totally away from any EM interference.
I was getting a variance in my ignition timing that could only be seen with a timing light or logged as detonation. To get rid of the detonation, I had to run a fairly relaxed timing curve.
NO LONGER.
A Hall Effect Signal works like a switch. Either On or Off. There is no need for a logic circuit because it is either on or off.
It is immune to interference, requires no shielding and comes in the form of a 12 volt (Low Amp) signal.
Got it all installed and tried it out.
The Numbers of Trigger and Home were spot on, but the car would not start. I had the labels turned off on the laptop. The Trigger (Crank) and Home (Cam) were reversed... The Computer must have been going insane trying to figure out when to fire the spark...
Road Test in the morning.
It will let me run this ignition which hits much harder on 104 Octane.
I'll post the others later. Currently there is a rip in my Tial Wastegate diaphragm, parts are on the way so this is a 7 PSI Spring the the rain without the Boost Controller.
Things to watch for.
1. There was so much humidity, that the BOV made a cloud of vapor when it opened.
2. The Turbo makes a deafening screaming noise under load.
3. The BOV makes a deafening noise off load.
4. The flames can be seen as a reflection of yellow under the turbo, the road that was driven on was a back farm road with no lines or markings.
Thanks all for your continued interest.
I have designed a new mount that will hold the camera pointing down at the discharge for the WG and also looking out the left front tire so you can sense speed as well..
I have also come up with a way to remove the wind noise from the Mic to improve the quality of the sound.
I was totally stunned how violent that looked, just wait until it isn't raining and I swap out springs with the replacement Tial parts..
LOL
So an update for June 08th 2010.
As most know, it is often easier to simply remove something and not put it back in.
When I blew my engine in 2004, The AC came Out, The Power Steering came Out.
I soon found out that the stock cooling pump sucked in traffic, so the primary loop was removed as well as the T-Stat. With the T-Stat out, the heater core came out as well. So The Coolant has no choice but to go through the rad every time.
the engine temperature is rarely consistent, and is always below 85 Degrees.
The Mechanical Cooling Pump is coming OUT!
A Shorter belt is going to the only thing belt driven, The Alternator.
A 1/2' Aluminum plate is going to cover the hole where the pump was and is being sealed, plus the location of the old pump will be bored out a bit by hand as the shape is no longer required for the centrifugal pump..
The Haltech has the ability to control everything from solid rocket boosters, to Flat-Shifting.
The Pump will be set to a 5% minimum duty, (Digital Pulsed Signal with a solid state relay) and be ramped up to a target as controlled by the Haltech.
It will be set to maintain a steady temperature of 90 Degrees C in conjunction with another channel controlling a variable speed fan.
In short, the new pump is the thermostat, but because the pump is not driven by the engine, it does not drag the engine down.
A mechanical pump is almost useless at low speeds (Like Stuck In Traffic)
A mechanical pump is almost useless at high engine speeds (Cavitation)
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...5-details.aspx
First ride of the year.. 03-20-2010
No Heater...
No Wipers...
No Problem..
100Km Round trip..
New Goodies.
Summer Spare Engine.
Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods
3.288"
Made some progress with the teardown.
Valves are getting redone as the engine had 177,000Km on it.
This should let me get the head ported a bit and with new springs and shims, should run perfect.
The engine is going to get it's own, Alternator, Clutch, Flywheel, Transmission and Quaiffe LSD.
It will be a drop in powerplant.
I'll fire up some more pictures but this is what I got now..
Rebuild starts Tuesday
Engine goes to Renfrew for a week
Yesterday and Today spent much time installing a Haltech RA-10
The Protege uses Two Variable Reluctor Sensors to tell the ECU where the engine is, (Timing Crank and Cam)
They generate tiny pulses of AC current and require a logic circuit to read. The pulse looks like a heart beat on a graph with a rising and falling edge. Every event makes a positive and negative bump in the graph.
I had massive trouble making a VR signal reliable. I had to triple shield the trigger and home signal wires...Run them totally away from any EM interference.
I was getting a variance in my ignition timing that could only be seen with a timing light or logged as detonation. To get rid of the detonation, I had to run a fairly relaxed timing curve.
NO LONGER.
A Hall Effect Signal works like a switch. Either On or Off. There is no need for a logic circuit because it is either on or off.
It is immune to interference, requires no shielding and comes in the form of a 12 volt (Low Amp) signal.
Got it all installed and tried it out.
The Numbers of Trigger and Home were spot on, but the car would not start. I had the labels turned off on the laptop. The Trigger (Crank) and Home (Cam) were reversed... The Computer must have been going insane trying to figure out when to fire the spark...
Road Test in the morning.
It will let me run this ignition which hits much harder on 104 Octane.
I'll post the others later. Currently there is a rip in my Tial Wastegate diaphragm, parts are on the way so this is a 7 PSI Spring the the rain without the Boost Controller.
Things to watch for.
1. There was so much humidity, that the BOV made a cloud of vapor when it opened.
2. The Turbo makes a deafening screaming noise under load.
3. The BOV makes a deafening noise off load.
4. The flames can be seen as a reflection of yellow under the turbo, the road that was driven on was a back farm road with no lines or markings.
Thanks all for your continued interest.
I have designed a new mount that will hold the camera pointing down at the discharge for the WG and also looking out the left front tire so you can sense speed as well..
I have also come up with a way to remove the wind noise from the Mic to improve the quality of the sound.
I was totally stunned how violent that looked, just wait until it isn't raining and I swap out springs with the replacement Tial parts..
LOL
So an update for June 08th 2010.
As most know, it is often easier to simply remove something and not put it back in.
When I blew my engine in 2004, The AC came Out, The Power Steering came Out.
I soon found out that the stock cooling pump sucked in traffic, so the primary loop was removed as well as the T-Stat. With the T-Stat out, the heater core came out as well. So The Coolant has no choice but to go through the rad every time.
the engine temperature is rarely consistent, and is always below 85 Degrees.
The Mechanical Cooling Pump is coming OUT!
A Shorter belt is going to the only thing belt driven, The Alternator.
A 1/2' Aluminum plate is going to cover the hole where the pump was and is being sealed, plus the location of the old pump will be bored out a bit by hand as the shape is no longer required for the centrifugal pump..
The Haltech has the ability to control everything from solid rocket boosters, to Flat-Shifting.
The Pump will be set to a 5% minimum duty, (Digital Pulsed Signal with a solid state relay) and be ramped up to a target as controlled by the Haltech.
It will be set to maintain a steady temperature of 90 Degrees C in conjunction with another channel controlling a variable speed fan.
In short, the new pump is the thermostat, but because the pump is not driven by the engine, it does not drag the engine down.
A mechanical pump is almost useless at low speeds (Like Stuck In Traffic)
A mechanical pump is almost useless at high engine speeds (Cavitation)
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...5-details.aspx
06-10-2010, 10:01 PM
#240
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So John got a SPORT20
I have called Dibbs on the rear lights, front and rear bumper and the seats.
The rear bumper is much more tucked in than the American one.. Like 6" it looks like.. I'm Super Excited! It's going to look BAD ASS.
The Sport 20
The Protege5
Both Photo-Chopped together.
I have called Dibbs on the rear lights, front and rear bumper and the seats.
The rear bumper is much more tucked in than the American one.. Like 6" it looks like.. I'm Super Excited! It's going to look BAD ASS.
The Sport 20
The Protege5
Both Photo-Chopped together.
06-14-2010, 10:08 AM
#242
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WP116SHD
This is a remote mounted coolant pump.
It has these Pros.
1. It is not driven by the motor.
-It does not drag the engine all the time
-It is not slaved to the RPM of the engine.
-It can be set to run for 30 seconds after the engine has shut off.
-It can be set to 80% on a switch, to be used the 2 minutes before you park the car. (Park your car at 60Deg vs 100Deg)
2. It is variable as set by the Haltech, You set a target temperature and the Haltech maintains that temperature by adjusting the speed of the pump. So in theory,
-If I am stuck in traffic, this sucker will probably be running about 70% in conjunction with the fan likely doing 55% duty.
-If I am blasting down the highway, it will alternate between 20% and 30% depending on the day, just to hold the engine at 90 Deg C. (This Becomes The New Thermostat)
06-14-2010, 10:26 AM
#243
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06-14-2010, 11:01 AM
#244
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It is an IQ3 from Racepak
It is the better part of one thousand dollars
Mine is controlled by the haltech full standalone ECU that I have installed in my car. If you do not have a full standalone, you will need to spend another thousand dollars and buy the Data Bus
I have it set to NOT show the speed because I know how fast I am going with the Tachometer.
It is fully programmable, any display, any sensor attached to the Haltech can be displayed.
There are 8 warning Lights that can have a High and Low condition. like Coolant too Cold or Hot.
The Shift lights are 100% programmable, There are a total of six per side, they are duplicates. The left and right first light come on together and so on.
Here it is in action on You Tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K37p0vw9cU
I have also uploaded a video just now for you from this morning..
The AFR sits at 10 until the sensor gets up to at least 1000 Degrees.
The camera makes it look like there is a issue with the clarity in the top right side, but there is not, and It is my actual car because you can clearly see MP5T in the display..
The red switch currently switches off the alternator when I am parked so that it does not kill the battery. I do not have a factory ECU, the Factory ECU controlled the Alternator, ABS, Air Bags, and Speedo Cluster.
I have made a simple device out of several diodes that will replace the switch and make the car as easy to start as normal "Key In, On Off"
It is the better part of one thousand dollars
Mine is controlled by the haltech full standalone ECU that I have installed in my car. If you do not have a full standalone, you will need to spend another thousand dollars and buy the Data Bus
I have it set to NOT show the speed because I know how fast I am going with the Tachometer.
It is fully programmable, any display, any sensor attached to the Haltech can be displayed.
There are 8 warning Lights that can have a High and Low condition. like Coolant too Cold or Hot.
The Shift lights are 100% programmable, There are a total of six per side, they are duplicates. The left and right first light come on together and so on.
Here it is in action on You Tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K37p0vw9cU
I have also uploaded a video just now for you from this morning..
The AFR sits at 10 until the sensor gets up to at least 1000 Degrees.
The camera makes it look like there is a issue with the clarity in the top right side, but there is not, and It is my actual car because you can clearly see MP5T in the display..
The red switch currently switches off the alternator when I am parked so that it does not kill the battery. I do not have a factory ECU, the Factory ECU controlled the Alternator, ABS, Air Bags, and Speedo Cluster.
I have made a simple device out of several diodes that will replace the switch and make the car as easy to start as normal "Key In, On Off"
06-14-2010, 06:44 PM
#246
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Which do you think is more important to a person who as a lot of money invested in a Motor...
Oil Pressure
Or 2 Speed readouts (Which I Have in the form of a Tachometer)
06-22-2010, 09:38 PM
#248
LSX RWD S/C conversion
iTrader: (2)
WP116SHD
This is a remote mounted coolant pump.
It has these Pros.
1. It is not driven by the motor.
-It does not drag the engine all the time
-It is not slaved to the RPM of the engine.
-It can be set to run for 30 seconds after the engine has shut off.
-It can be set to 80% on a switch, to be used the 2 minutes before you park the car. (Park your car at 60Deg vs 100Deg)
2. It is variable as set by the Haltech, You set a target temperature and the Haltech maintains that temperature by adjusting the speed of the pump. So in theory,
-If I am stuck in traffic, this sucker will probably be running about 70% in conjunction with the fan likely doing 55% duty.
-If I am blasting down the highway, it will alternate between 20% and 30% depending on the day, just to hold the engine at 90 Deg C. (This Becomes The New Thermostat)
I look forward to seeing this new drop in engine once you have dropped it in.
06-22-2010, 09:52 PM
#249
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The "Drop In Engine" is my second forged spare engine. This car has a silly cheap block, like $900.00 for a working used motor. The forged Goodies and gasket kit is $1400, then the engine work costs $400. Assembled here at my garage.
Both are sitting on stands in my garage, packed in oil and double bagged to keep dust and humidity off.
The original forged motor (2005) is still fine but looses about 1L of oil every 500Km.
I think most of it is blowing out the PCV and back into the intake manifold. I'm going to put a catch can on it soon to try to figure out if I'm burning oil or just blowing it out.
07-05-2010, 09:07 PM
#250
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Here is some stuff for the spring as i am starting to get ready for Afghanistan again.
Negative... I leave Canada.
Bonus... I leave Canada for the entire winter!
Bulley Clutch 3+r, Pressure plate and 7.0lb Flywheel are going on the new motor which will now be installed because the tune is finished.
-The Whole point of MP5T was to learn, I built a fully fine tuned Haltech map from SCRATCH, made all my mistakes on the old motor. Time for a fresh ZERO MILE FS.
Looking at a fully Rebuilt Trans with 323GTX gears from Japan (Taller 5th Gear) and a new Quaiffe LSD.
Intake manifold with second rail of 550cc injectors staged on a second pump.
New Drive shafts.
100% going to get/Need A 13" or 14" 6 Piston Big Brake Kit
100% going to get R compound tires on light forged 18" Rims and keep Current setup of 18" + Parda Spec2 to switch back and forth.
Negative... I leave Canada.
Bonus... I leave Canada for the entire winter!
Bulley Clutch 3+r, Pressure plate and 7.0lb Flywheel are going on the new motor which will now be installed because the tune is finished.
-The Whole point of MP5T was to learn, I built a fully fine tuned Haltech map from SCRATCH, made all my mistakes on the old motor. Time for a fresh ZERO MILE FS.
Looking at a fully Rebuilt Trans with 323GTX gears from Japan (Taller 5th Gear) and a new Quaiffe LSD.
Intake manifold with second rail of 550cc injectors staged on a second pump.
New Drive shafts.
100% going to get/Need A 13" or 14" 6 Piston Big Brake Kit
100% going to get R compound tires on light forged 18" Rims and keep Current setup of 18" + Parda Spec2 to switch back and forth.