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New Rotors and Pads

Old Nov 17, 2005 | 11:55 PM
  #26  
GSoccer24's Avatar
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Joined: 11-15-05
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From: Newton Highlands, Massachusetts
I had the dealer replace the rotors twice on my 2001 Cavalier because of the warping. Unfortunately, GM does use a pad that's harder than the rotor itself, the only way to fix this is to get some softer pads, better rotors, or both (making sure they'll work well together).
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 02:04 AM
  #27  
wasey13's Avatar
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From: Bako
Originally Posted by ExHondaMan
I probably could of if I had tested the stock units... but I did not... and i dont really want to put them back on just for the purpose of the test.
It doesnt really seem to stop any better... but I have not really gotten hard on them yet... no need to (due to traffic) and Im trying to take it easy on them for awhile.
I just didnt want to hassle with the dealer to get them replaced or turned... and at the price for the set w/ pads it was a good deal... they look pretty nice...
It won't (shouldn't) stop any faster if they are the same diameter adn width. Just more efficiently. Maybe a foot or two better stopping from 60mph.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:15 AM
  #28  
Uneek's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles
Don't "test" the rotors out yet. You have to break them in gently for the first couple hundred miles in order to avoid warping. So don't go doing a hard stop test just yet.

The mussy pedal feeling at the beggining was normal because the pads were wearing off the excess zinc where the pads meet the rotors.

Just to let you all know, ExHondaMan got a promo price on the rotors/pads set because he is the first on the site to get the rotors and post pics for me. However don't worry the regular price wont be much higher. . . . .maybe if a get a GB going I could offer them at the same price though. . . .hmm something to think about. . . .

NOTE:
I do also carry rotors/pads for any year make and model vehicle. Just pm me what you want.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 02:04 PM
  #29  
BlAckOnBLaCK's Avatar
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Joined: 10-05-05
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by fleckenwhat
if you drive it like a racer you will be sorry for getting drilled. they will develop stress cracks around the holes rather quickly...not to mention you only get 65-75% braking surface. should have got slotted only...and i got quiet stop ceramic pads, well worth the $150

This is just a myth. I have had cross drilled rotors on my vette for 2 years now. They are the best ever. The pads wear more evenly and there is no fade.
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Old Nov 22, 2005 | 06:09 AM
  #30  
fleckenwhat's Avatar
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From: phoenix
unfortunately, uneek, we have been reading different literature...however, my claims are also based on personal testimony. yes, there may be ways to cross-drill a rotor so as to not weaken it. however, that technology is not used all the time, and can not be relied upon...unless you are ready to spend the big money.

cross drilling was started in the 50's or so because of the type of pads used back then. many released a gas when hot that prevented the pad from reaching the rotor. cross-drilling was designed to let these gasses escape, but have never been proven to release heat. on the contrary...less braking surface means more time spent on the brakes...means more heat. you can ask any racing professional, they will tell you never to run 2 or more 1/4 miles at speeds near 130 on 1 set of cross-drilled rotors.

slotted-only rotors are best for extreme driving conditions. they constantly clean the pad while braking, while maintaining 95% of surface on average. making your braking system up to 33% more efficient, and requiring less time on the pedal....less heat. that is why they last the longest for our type of application.

not talking smack on cross-drilled brakes. yes, some of the most advanced holes may be very reliable...but they do NOT cool the pad or the rotor. they do, however, LOOK COOL. that is why they are still made today...kinda like racing stripes, they really mean nothing today but back in the old days you wanted everyone to see it on your car. do racing stripes give you any advantage?
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