Some guys sprayed a toyota with Diamont paint, black with silver pearl. This nissan is Wanda.

 

i see i see. solvent based i take it? or do they have you on water bourne over there? right now im using spies and hekker......i love standox, rm, and basf. never was a fan of ppg(ill get flamed for it)

 

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...1182607&page=1

sorry i cant post pics on here lol... here is a ton of pics from my car.. bought it wrecked did most of the body work.. and painted the fenders bumper and the bottom lip peice (on saw bucks) and my dad did the rest of car.. i also did the taillights and some parts under the hood my self.. i really want 2 redo mine and fix a couple spots and where some lady backed into me.. oh btw there is is a 2nd page lol

 

Its all solvent based, everything we spray. I dont know what spies and hekker is


that came out great man. good work.

Any1 see Liz's myspace? she does some sweet stuff. I havent seen her post on here in awhile though. I can link her pics

 

spies and hekker the little sister company of standox.....good stuff and virtually almost the same but its a bit cheaper. standox has better pigment content and binder in the base though

 

thanks... took it was fun.. ill probaly do the the bad spots and blend them then wet sand the whole car and then buff, and wax the whole thing.. black is a B to paint, buff, wax and keep clean lol..

 

^^^^are you taking about color blending or doing a spot repair blend?

 

repair blend.. a few spots need primered.. and one or two needs bondo... my paint came out with alot of dust in it.. r garage isnt down draft and my dad told me to sand it with 1000 grit all over.. then buff and wax it.. now there is a **** ton of scratches.... so would i be able 2 fix and blend and reclear the trouble spots and wet sand with 2000+ grit then buff and wax.. or do i have to redo the whole car???

 

did you get a lot of dust or a lot of huge dirt knibs and fish eye? NEVER WAX FRESH PAINT!!!!!!! especially since you didnt bake it. your going to lock in the chemicals that need to escape. did you sand the clear flat with 1000?

 

naw just a bunch of specks.. no fisheye.. and very lil orange peel... yes sanded the clear flat with 1000.. the waited a day or something i cant rember then buffed it.. then the next day waxed it then like a month later waxed it again...

still 2 scratchy.. definatly not acceptable... we have rebuilt and painted over ten car (my dad an me) and some how my turned out the worst but this one only are second full body paint job... it was in the summer to when it was real dry.. we think thats what caused it

 

so the specs are still there after sanding it flat? i think you have solvent pop not dust.. another thing... fix your spots you need to fix but i would never spot repair and blend clear especially on black . you will see it within a year and you will be pist.

 

ohh after sanding there is no specs just scratches... u cant tell on my pics though..

btw one spot is on the driver fender and the other is right behind the driver door handle( previous owner damage lol..) needs more work dad couldnt get right and said ol well.. i was like wtf.. so i wana redo that so just paint those 2 parts together and resand the car with 2000+ grit.. and do the ol buff and wax routine?

 

well if you think you put enough clear on it to sand it down again with 2000 and then use 3000 and buff it again.......honestly this is what i would do at this point

fix your spots, prime them block them, prime again if needed.

then i would sand the whole car flat again put color where you need it and blend it out and re-clear it the whole car just to be on the safe side so you dont burn through while your buffing. idk how much clear you really took off being you sanded it flat with 1000. after you have re-clearned it and the paint has cured wetsand it flat again with 1200-1500 and go over it with 3000 and a d/a sander to even everything out and it will also make buffing go a lot faster....

what are are you do exactly to buff?

one more thing...NEVER WAX FRESH PAINT! by waxing fresh paint your sealing in chemicals that will need to escape. if you baked the car for a full hour a 165 degrees and then let it cool, buffed it and then MAYBE you could wax it. but even then i would wait 30 days. ive seen a lot of funky things happen to people that dont let their paint cure properly

 

i have a mequires buff and wax kit we bought at barret jackson in Fl and its an orbital or something... vibrates like a mother.. and ill remeber the waxing thing... and ill tell my dad.. i really want my car lookin good for the summer u know...

 

man id say prep it up and bring it here ill do it in a booth for you. just pay the costs of base and clear.

 

where r u at.. id love to have it done in a booth and bake it

 

illinois. im about 8 hours from cincinatti

 

Figured I'd put my 2 cents in... You should always remove the door handles mldgs, squirters and etc.. Most of the time it is faster to just pull the handle and such you just need to take the time the first few times to learn how to do it and you'll get fast at it, TRUST ME. You won't save anytime masking it off, it will eventually come back for peeling or an **** customer that found a hard line where you masked it off. You're not using an HVLP gun in those pics are you? It look like a lot of overspray for a HVLP I personally love Sata guns just my opinion everybody has different taste. I currently just have a few pics of cars I did at a shop I worked at up in Green Bay just before I moved to Chicago area.

My boss had bought a bunch of 66 and 67 Novas for a cheap price so we began to restore them all. This was the First restore job I did at the shop which was our little test car. It was originally a 4 door which we made into a 2 door post. Took the rear doors off and frenched in the front of a 2 door post quarter panel. It was also the first car we did an ls1 engine swap in, so with that we had to fab up a stronger front chassis and engine mounts.




Here's another with some pics of the process.
BEFORE







DURING









AFTER









I'm fixing my cobalt right now after a little accident I had a week or so ago and will be painting in next couple days I'll try to remember to take some pics. sorry foir long post LOL

 

SICK DUDE, why didnt you ever show me that ****???

 

awesome work kev.
i can't wait to plan some stuff out with you

 

^sweet 8-)

and that Nova looks pretty nasty. Heres some of Liz's pics off her myspace:

 

props to all of ya the valve cover is sick and love the skulls with the balt

 

.... never asked??? lol

 

the only thing idont like on that red cobalt is how the paint was done.....again it refers to tight taping. personally i think it all the panels should have been cleared that way you could have wetsanded the line flat so that theres a smooth transition. her work is really good though.

 

I was thinking the same thing when I saw those pics, I was like "...isnt there gonna be a hard tape line there?" but i dont know if she sanded the rest of it or not, and then she added a pinstripe under that so who knows. But yea she does some cool ****