tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

To start, I have had an evolving problem for a couple months but now Burt won't start at all.

Several months ago my problem started where I would turn to ON but the fuel pump wouldn't prime nor would the starter click or turn over when moved farther to START. I would leave Burt for about 10-20 minutes and try again and he would start like normal. This would happen reliably the first start of the day but would have no problems or issues until the next morning.

About a week ago it evolved to taking close to 30 minutes or more to start and became a regular problem whenever I attempted to start the car. Also I would have to rev to 25xx or so before shifting(auto) after start up otherwise Burt would die and I would have to wait to start him back up. The shifting problem was non existent after he had been running for 1-5 minutes while in reverse or drive, if left in park it would still occur. As of a few days ago my car has been sitting at a friend's house because now the fuel pump will not prime at all and the starter seems to be running reliably but there is no fuel getting to the engine.

A friend of mine said she had near identical issues and it was the ecm in her van(Chevy Venture) but I am at a loss. I also have no codes being tripped and according to my friend's dad(who is a mechanic in the military) all relays and fuses are good as of yesterday when he was trying to diagnose the problem but he has limited tools at his house to work with.

I currently do not have interwebs right now and am using my friend's computer to post this so if anyone has any good advice feel free to call me @ 910-309-2419, I will try to check this post every couple days when I can.
Thanks for all suggestions.
Travis.

Balt_2.2

Have you checked to see if your car fell under the recall for the fuel pump?

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

It is within the numbers on YC.com but it doesn't have any cracks in the lines...

According to my dealer they will only replace it if they smell fuel or it drips.

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

So I have been playing with my multi-meter and neither the fuel pump, nor the starter are getting voltage with the key in the appropriate positions which lead me to think it is either the ECU or the IGN, does anyone have any wiring diagrams on either?

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

So, update... I am quite angry so please excuse the language in the following.

My local stealership called me a few days ago about the recall saying my parts were finally in(after two months of hounding them), car is still immobile, they pay for my car to be towed there on Tuesday, Wed morning they call me and say there are 18 DTC's but because they cannot communicate with the computers they cannot read them, nor program the ignition... initially they say my stereo has nothing to do with it and that it is most likely a factory wire that is grounding out somewhere, said it would be $260 to diagnose and fix(if it is a wire). Yesterday they called and said it was the fuse box and the total rose to $871(I have 12V~ to my fuses and relays in both boxes according to my multimeter so I am not understanding but, I reluctantly agree for them to get it running. Just got a call from them a few minutes ago and they changed the fuse box but now they are saying it is a fried computer(what I thought from the beginning) and that my stereo is to blame, also they claim my positive cable is not factory because it is supposed to be "the size of your pinky" and it is "thicker than your thumb"(now the wire is factory but the terminals are not) They are claiming that because of the amp I installed AFTER it started having problems is at fault for "frying my whole electrical system". Oh and the total is now up to $1700.

I am so pissed right now it is taking every inch of my being not to go to the stealership, take a screwdriver and jam out the guys eye socket and skull ******* him until he bleeds to death from brain trama. Any Ideas?

Anyone in Fayetteville NC DO NOT TAKE YOUR MODIFIED CAR TO REID LALLIER CHEVROLET ON RAEFORD ROAD!!!!!