Hey guys,
Finally got my car back on the road after a blown transmission cooler line. But the fuel economy and hesitation on acceleration persists. Upon doing research on the VVT solenoid and learning where they are, I recall that when I pulled the valve cover off not too long ago, I removed both solenoids and noticed metal shavings on the screen on one of them, which I understand is NOT a good thing. So my decision is to park it. I plan on doing a compression test this weekend, and with 150,000 miles plan on replacing the timing chain and components. I will likely pull the head and or motor to inspect and decide if a rebuild is in order.
I don't have a lift available, so I ask, is it possible to pull the motor from the top? I understand it's much easier to do from the bottom, but is not feasible. As for these shiny metal shavings, what are the possible culprits? I don't know if they were aluminum as I didn't do a magnet check, but will probably find more this weekend, and keep you posted.
Sorry for being long winded, and thanks for listening.
Jason

 

If you have 2 jacks you can still pull the motor through the bottom.

I'm sure with a high light farm jack you could lift the front end from the crash bar and roll the motor and subframe out from under.

 

why is it not feasible to pull from the bottom? I know it can be pulled from the top, but its a PITA to do. Easier to drop subframe/motor/transmission

 

Can an engine hoist lift the front of the car? I don't know what the weight of the front end would be without the engine, tranny, and subframe. I'm thinking pulling the head off first would allow some room. This should be a learning experience for me (good or bad) Lol. Good thing I have all summer to do it. Just hoping it doesn't take all summer! I'll post the compression results on Saturday. Thanks for the advice guys!

 

leemanfor and I just pulled the motor out of an LSJ without a lift. Jacks on each side with a 4x4 to give it some extra lift. If it was a 2ton engine hoist as long as you didn't extend it out far it would lift the car without issue. Just remember you have to be able to roll the engine and transmission on the subframe over or move the car away.

We used moving dollys to roll the subframe away, we really should of taken some pictures but the thought process was on fixing the car

 

I like your idea better. Dumb question, but what is the best placement for the jack with 4x4 to lift the car? By using the crash bar, can the subframe be rolled out the side? Should I remove the head for more clearance? My father in law has automotive dollys that would work perfectly. If done, I will post progress pics.

 

We just used the standard jack points and slowly picked the body up till the engine would clear

 

we had the head pulled off so it had a bit more clearance, but we rolled it back under using the moving dollys with a fully built longblock and transmission. You can get cheap moving dollys for like 10 bucks at Harbor freight.

I believe we put them on the pinch welds didnt we eric?

 

Leemanfor, just stumbled upon your project OEM build. I didn't realize how much clearance the wheel well has with all the plastic **** removed! It does give me hope! Plus, we just had a Harbor Freight open up right in town! I'm anxious to get the fun started! (I think...)

 

Ok, so I did a dry compression test and the results were 160-162-161-165 on a warmed up engine. Wet test showed 190-175-180-180. what is the ideal compression range for a 150,000 mile car?