BEnSonn

Hopefully this post won't get to much hate.

Anyways, recently I went and got my cobalt tuned and the guy who tuned it was doing road tests, at the end he said everything was fine for the most part except that he didn't want to adjust the timing any more than he already has due to extremely high iat's that hp tuners was showing ( he said they were in the mid 180F) and said my pump was not working and I needed to get a new one and have it fixed, I brought up that I can see my intercooler pump working (I have an option b tank and I can see the coolant being moved). his reply was that the pump is not working as well as it should.

BEFORE I had the car tuned I was seeing my coolant temp from the dash was about 78-81C and from my aeroforce interceptor it was about 170-175F with an ambient temp of about 40-50F, my iat2's were around 130-140F and that was normal for the times I have payed close attention( I never really see my iat2 above 155).

Obviously, the guy who was tuning my car was beating on it pretty hard to have the temps he says it had, because right after he gave me the keys I drove home doing a few 2nd and 3rd gear pulls seeing no more than 160F iat2 and highway cruising was back down to mid 130's I have noticed that driving since the tune my iat2 have been higher than normal ie sitting at high 140 to low 150F

so after looking through a bunch of threads and not really getting a direct answer to my situation, my iat2 seem to be higher compared to some threads I have seen where people's iat2 are around 110F cruising and maybe 130 after a pull.

my question is, should I get a new intercooler pump?? or is my problem somewhere else? I went to my local parts shop (should mention they're clowns and I've had problems with them before) they said I needed a new water pump

My 07 Cobalt ss/sc

05 lsj engine with approximately 155,xxx km
2.9" pully,
siemens 60#injectors
zzp 3"cai
zzp shorty headers
lsj clutch upgrade kit
dual pass ic
zzp S3 heat exchanger
option b tank
dual interceptors
3" catted exhaust
zzp crank case breather
94 octane gas only

please be serious I'm not trying to have my engine go to crap, or spend money on something I don't need at this moment

LsCobalt07

iTrader: (2)

Check the connector to make the pins are seating properly, if not they can cause an intermittent connection. There's a how to thread somewhere on how to rebuild the IC pump motor, it could be a cheaper alternative if you can find the parts.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

you for sure have something wrong. with your cooling mods you should be able to cruise closer to 30*f above ambient. i had similar mods as you do, although im a 2.7 pulley and i do have water/meth, but during a dozen or so pulls on the dyno in 80*f ambient i saw a maximum of 125*f.

if you are positive you pump is working go over your plumbing for your intercooler, make sure you have it plumbed correctly. also, did you flip the cores in the manifold? if not, or if your running the coolant through them in reverse to the dual pass drawing you will get air trapped in the cores and that could be causing the problem.

BEnSonn

I personaly did not do the dual pass install the previous owner of the engine did , I will check the hose routes tonight, im pretty sure i routed them properly but i could be wrong, i heard that some of the IC pumps could be backwards would that be possible? i cant check the cores in the manifold until maybe the weekend as my car is a daily and dont have that much time to just take it all apart

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

it was only saturn ions in 04 and possibly 05 that had the pumps wired backwards.

BEnSonn

ok so i can rule that out, so i will check the plumbing , but wouldnt my option b tank bleed the air out of the system? Would that not take it out of the cores aswell? Its connected to my stock intercooler at the top i didnt drill into the manifold.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

If the laminova cores are backwards the option b will not bleed the air out of them

BEnSonn

Dont mind the bad drawing, but this is how my plumbing is set up

BEnSonn

This was Sitting idle

During a small pull

Idle after the pull
( using interceptor record thing)

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

define a small pull, 2nd and 3rd gear or just a little blip of WOT for like 1500 rpms.

Also that is a pretty high IAT2 which indicates the IC pump is likely not working or you have a serious air bubble. Not sure if the plumbing is correct I'll let someone else chime in on that.

BEnSonn

small as in 0-60MPH
did another 0-70mph about 10 minutes later and iat2 was 158F while the iat was 60F

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Dual pass looks correct from what I can see. You must have either:

1. Broken SC pump
2. Air bubbles in the SC Coolant system

BEnSonn

my option b is squirting into the tank so i dont think its broken, maybe not working to its full potential? Or the air bubbles seem to be a common thing everyone is saying il definatly have to check the cores soon

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

sounds like you don't have a restricter in the line to the opt b, and the fluid is circulating through the opt b tank, it shouldn't be a flow through tank.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

There should be a 0.04" restrictor in the overflow line from the opt b tank, it will allow some through but it should be mostly air.

BEnSonn

By restrictor do you mean the copper elbow thing that i had to screw into the top of the stock h/e when installing the option b to connect the clear tube from the stock h/e to the option b tank?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

correct, but there should be a restrictor that goes inside that copper elbow

BEnSonn

so what youre saying is that there shouldnt be liquid flowing up the bleed line it should mainly be air? I dont think i put the restrictor in when i installed it, i just put the elbow in i didnt see anythimg else that came with the zzp kit

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I have no idea if there is a restrictor in the brass or copper elbow. It should have a fairly small opening 0.040" opening (or about 1mm).

You shouldn't see a lot of flow to the opt b tank.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

yeah thats the problem

ZZP wants you to drill into the intake manifold while GM says to use that plug on top of the Heat exchanger, but you need a restrictor.

Sharkey

iTrader: (1)

no an elbow is an elbow. the line must have a small restrictor in it with a .040" hole (very small, thats smaller than a 1/16 drill bit) to restrict the line. without the restrictor the path of least resistance for the coolant is from the tank, through the pump, heat exchangers and back through the bleed line, coolant will not flow properly through the manifold.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Little black plastic guy in the first pic under the brass elbow

http://s3.amazonaws.com/zzpstorage/i...B+Kit+revB.pdf

BEnSonn

well seems like i lost that piece, any idea of a store i could buy one?

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

I asked CED about it. and this was what tom said

I am out of both, but both can be picked up at most auto parts stores.
The brass fitting is # 844240 and the restrictor is just a cut end piece off a universal vacuum host connector.

BEnSonn

okk thanks il look around and pick one up and see if it makes the difference as to why my temps are like that