Any tips for removing this thing? It looks like it's rusted to the spindle.

 

Kroil, about $20 a can but will break any bolt loose. Best penitraiting oil ever made.

 

Just to clarify, I got the nut off, but the bolt is like welded to the knuckle. I can't find my propane torch anywhere so I'm going to legitimately heat it with a candle and try melted wax (bootleg youtube tips). brb

 

Your using a pickle fork with a 2-3 lb hammer right?

 

Aerokroil is awesome stuff. Pickle fork or a big screw driver to separate it plus hammer.

 

Heat worked. Unfortunately the threads were ruined from the rust and it stripped when reinstalling.

Can you even order just the ball joint pinch bolt?

 

What are you doing the tie rod? You can buy just the ball joint end.

 

Axles.

I found the bolts and nuts, gonna see if the dealer has them in stock on Monday.

Getting too old for this ****!

 

Not to old to get the job done, just too old that you don't want to mess with it. I still do most all my own wrenching at 50 yrs old.

 

I still enjoy it. From now on though, I'm buying all new fasteners before starting any job. I'm surprised how rusty these were, I had the ball joints replaced only two or three years ago.

 

 

Mine doesn't see winter duty so luckily I have had decent bolts when I take them out. Every one I put back in gets never seize. Never know why they can't do that from the factory.

 

should only be using GM fluid

 

The MT90 is the same thing.

 

I'd think the RedLine fluid would even be better than GM's. I put RedLine ATF D6 in my F23 transmission because it called for Dexron 3 ATF.

 

did u get that pinch bolt? my new ball joint came with one i didn't need if ya want it just lmk

 

Wish I saw this earlier! I ordered from CED. I still need to do the pass side so I ordered two.

And yeah, the redline fluid seems better in the cold. Even with the updated SS TC fluid it was still notchy in the cold. This stuff has been good down to -20, and I rarely let my car run for longer than a minute before I start driving.

 

its not. a number of years back i put mt90 in my f35. while it shifted alright, in cold weather it was hard to shift till it warmed up a bit. i eventually went back to the gm fluid and it was a night and day difference within about 15 minutes of driving.

redline is better in the f23, although technically d6 is the wrong thing to put in it. gm always had used dexron 3 in the manual transmission requiring atf, when they switched to dexron 6 they brought out a fluid labeled "manual trans fluid", all it was is dexron 3. dexron 6 has a thinner viscosity and thats the reason they didnt run it in the manuals requiring atf. for an f23 if you want to run redline, use the d4 as its a replacement for dexron 3. alternatively, you can run royal purple syncromax, its a fluid thats designed specifically to work in manual transmissions that used atf from factory.

 

What I read about Dexron 6 is it initially starts out thinner than Dexron 3 however as it degrades the Dexron 6 will end up with a higher viscosity than Dexron 3, RedLine specifically.

-"Synthetic D6 Automatic Transmission Fluid is a lower viscosity version of the D4 Automatic Transmission Fluid and is designed for better fuel efficiency in CAFE testing. Dexron VI requires a different approach to a conventional Automatic Transmission Fluid formulation. Rather than beginning with a 7.5 cSt fluid and allowing a viscosity loss in use to drop to 5.5 cSt, the Dexron VI fluid requires a starting viscosity of less than 6.4 and a final drop to no less than 5.5 cSt. Red Line D6 will drop to no less than 6.1 cSt. Since the final viscosity after use of these fluids are similar, Dexron VI fluids can be used where Dexron III fluids were previously recommends"

 

ZZP recommends the MT-90, and it cross references with the SS TC fluid on Redline's website. I've been using it for probably 80,000 miles now.

I'm a huge proponent of OEM everything but this stuff is cheaper, easier to find and works better so I roll with it.