I have a rotora big brake kit on my ss/sc for about 500 miles now and my brakes are still squeaking... Is this due to them still breaking in? Its actually not a squeak but a long squeal whenever i brake soft

 

probably gunna always sound that way, the ss/tc brembo brakes squeak a fair amount, essspecially when it's cold.

 

yeah i know but its soo loud now

 

it's possible u got a rock or some random road debris stuck in there, have u taken a good look at the rotors for possible signs of warping?

 

after 500 miles? really?

 

all it takes is one tire rotation to get a grain of sand or something ridiculous in there. highly unlikely but its possible.

 

true should i try to get it out with a air hose?

 

i would take the caliper off and check. also, there is usually a break in procedure, like to do a 5mph stop, then 15mph, then 45mph, then 60mph(im not 100% how it actually goes i just made that up) but its something dumb like that to get the proper wear. otherwise it they say it has the possibility to squeak and warp and what not. sounds dumb i know, but they wouldnt just make that up for ***** and giggles, there has to be a reason. just wondering if you had to do that.

 

they just told me to take it easy

 

Try braking harder a few times.It mght go away for a while and dont repeatedly stop softly by riding the brakes ,you will glaze them up and they then start squeaking.
Ceramic pads tend to squeal more.

And yes you have to whats called burnishing .This is done for the rotors to work harden the outter surfacce of the new rotors.
I will see if I can find the procedure.
Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary in order to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after service has been performed on the disc brake system.

This procedure should be performed whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Important: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.

3. Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop.Do not allow the brakes to lock.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops in order to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.

 

yup thts wht happens with big brakes...

do wht the guy above me said^^^^sounds like it could work.

 

ive always hear that when burnishing the brakes in, duruing the stop, dont bring the car to a complete stop (if possible), bring it to just a couple mph. also try to avaoid sitting with the brakes on after a hard stop.

 

ok i will give it a try

 

hey, just got a 09 cobalt, doing the same ordeal. . wondering if that stop and start 20 times worked. . getting really annoyed with the squeal. .

 

yeah it sucks

 

properly bedding your new pads into the new rotors is crucial. it must be done.

 

here you guys go this is from the brake kit maker....

After completing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system: On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal and good! If f racing or higher per performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third d bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “ come in”. A cycle is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

 

<3 thanks

 

nice informative writeup

 

someone should turn this into a sticky