? Bleeding the SS/SC clutch ? - Cobalt SS Network



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Old 08-05-2006, 12:50 PM   #1
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? Bleeding the SS/SC clutch ?

Anyone here have access to GM dealerworld?

What method does GM say to use when bleeding the clutch system? Or is there any other method besides using a vacuum pump on the resevoir.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:40 PM   #2
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All I did on mine was had a friend at the bleeder and me pumping the clutch till all the bubbles were gone . Adding fluid as needed . Worked like a charm with no drama or problems at all . I dont really understand why alot of other people had such a hard time bleeding the clutch . :shrugs:
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Old 08-05-2006, 07:11 PM   #3
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Document ID# 866337
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding

Tools Required
J 35555 Metal MityVac
J 43485 Power Steering Bleeder Adapter

Vacuum Bleeding
1. Verify that all the hydraulic lines are dry and secure.
2. Clean dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign
substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir using DOT 3 hydraulic fluid.

Important
- Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on the J 44894-A , use a clean shop towel to wipe
away all fluid after each use.

5. Install the J 43485 and the J 35555 to the reservoir.
6. Hold the J 43485 into position while applying 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) of vacuum.
7. emove the adapter and refill the reservoir
8. Fully depress the clutch pedal cycling the pedal for 30 seconds.
9. Lift the clutch pedal to the up stop position and hold for 30 seconds.
10. Repeat steps 4-9 until all air is removed from the clutch system.

Important
Do not start the engine while the transaxle is engaged, only while in the neutral position. This vehicle is equipped with a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) and will move if started in gear.

11. Place the vehicle into the neutral position and start the engine.
12. Pump the clutch pedal until firm.

Important
The clutch and braking systems are integrated into one reservoir. The brake may be soft when first applying.

13. Pump the brake pedal until firm.
14. If needed, add additional hydraulic fluid.
15. Road test the vehicle to ensure proper operation.

Manual Bleeding
Notice: Do not reuse the fluid that has been bled from a system in order to fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir for the following reasons:
The fluid may be aerated
The fluid may be contaminated
The fluid may contain too much moisture

Important
Maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with DOT 3 hydraulic fluid.
1. Clean dirt and grease from the cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter
the system.
2. Attach a hose to the bleeder port on the clutch actuator assembly. Submerge the other
end of the hose in a container of DOT 3 hydraulic fluid .
3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly to the full depressed position.




4. Push the clip in order to move the clutch line into the bleed position.
5. Move the clutch line into the normal position ensuring that the clip returns.
6. Lift the clutch pedal to the up stop position and hold for 5 seconds.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until air is purged from the clutch system.

Document ID# 866337
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:56 PM   #4
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can we bring this thread back to life for a second....

where exactly is the bleeder valve for the clutch?
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Old 02-28-2008, 12:48 AM   #5
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where is this so called clip?
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Old 02-28-2008, 12:55 AM   #6
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:13 AM   #7
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bump for someone to answer my where is the clutch bleeder valve question
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:19 AM   #8
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The clutch bleeder valve is on the aluminum metal block that the line goes to on top of the tranny. It is pointed toward the front of the car, and is a real pain in the ass to get to. The black electrical fuse box has to be out of the car in order for you to reach it.

I gave up on the vacuum bleed procedure as it blew the seal on the slave cylinder during my CM clutch fiasco I went through. I do it old school now with someone pumping the clutch, then the other person opening the valve as the other person applies pressure and holds the pedal down. With the pedal to the floor, the bleeder is shut, and the 30 pump pumping process starts all over again. Do this 5-6 times and you should be fine.
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:26 PM   #9
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:32 PM   #10
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Bleeder is right behind the oil cooler and on top of the trani. You can get to it from under the car but it is still a beotch!!! 2K5SS is right on with his suggestion. Actually when I was having problems with mine I PM him for answers/help. The best bet is old school way of bleeding.
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:55 AM   #11
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Is the stem behind the cap on the resevoir for to hook up the vacuum hose to to bleed the system?
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCobaltSS View Post
Is the stem behind the cap on the resevoir for to hook up the vacuum hose to to bleed the system?
No, not sure why that is there actually it is closed off. You are going to need a stopper to put on top of the reservoir. Then you vacumn line will go into the stopper
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:48 AM   #13
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Where can you get this stopper at ?
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCobaltSS View Post
Where can you get this stopper at ?
I got mine offline but you should be able to get it at your local hardware store, they are commonly used for bathtubs
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:35 PM   #15
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Sounds good thanks
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:10 PM   #16
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I called a GM ttechnicien and he told me just to put it in and thats it. Thats what i did and no problem..
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:18 PM   #17
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I called a GM ttechnicien and he told me just to put it in and thats it. Thats what i did and no problem..

I called a GM ttechnicien and he told me just to put it in and thats it. Thats what i did and no problem..

Last edited by Christmas; 07-30-2009 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:35 AM   #18
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so when you took your slave out you just put a new one in w/o any clutch fluid in it :\ because that makes close to no sense
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:39 PM   #19
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did not use the tool waste of $23 for me. I made the stopper by drilling a hole through a rubber stopper form Home depot and a fitting that I plugged into it.

Before I did the job i asked a GM tech and he said just have someone pump the clutch while you crack the bleeder ontop of the trans and that's what I did instead.

Oh well.
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:13 PM   #20
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well ived just put transmition fuid in the trans cuz ived lost about 1/4 of a quart when i took out the shaft and that was it
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #21
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Ok need a little help here and I do realize this thread is old, but were is the clip that has to be moved located at? Is it on the slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder?
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:25 AM   #22
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Help pls dont understand the bleeder clip position,
How do i know when its open and when its closed, and if its still in open position would this cause the pedal to go to the floor after a while of sitting ??
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Old 11-17-2016, 11:38 AM   #23
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The bleeder doesnt use a clip except to hold the distribution block onto the clutch pipe.

The bleeder is a little screw with a rubber cap on it unless it fell off. When its tight its closed. When its lose its open. If the valve is open you will not only lose fluid but if the pedal goes to the ground as well because it cant build pressure.
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Old 11-17-2016, 02:40 PM   #24
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I had my clutch redone about a week and a half ago, and the shop that did mine said that they had to use a "bleeder" and pump the clutch... and they told me they had to do it about 5 times to ensure the clutch was solid, and without bubbles... hope that helps.
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Old 11-17-2016, 06:43 PM   #25
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I understand that the bleeder and how it works that, the line that im refering to is.
"4. Push the clip in order to move the clutch line into the bleed position"
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