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blinker and key fob problems.

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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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From: metuchen,nj
blinker and key fob problems.

ok yesterday i went to put on my left blinker and its super fast.2x as fast as the right.just started yesterday afternoon.anyone have this problem?also the right blinker will not return to center once the steering wheel goes back to center,anyone?
key fob stopped working yesterday.this is my 4th one.i thought the battery might be dead but it ill work sometimes.the trunk pops with no problem.happened before and it wasnt the battery.anyone know?
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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From: Riverside,CA
its time to check the bulbs, the blinker will blink faster when your turn signals are out, my left rear one was out and the left turn signal was super fast like those ones on hondas.

the thing about it returning to the center is ummm just hit it manually haha but if its a problem look in to it.

my key fob is been a bitch since i got my car last yr, i have to press super hard to get it to unlock and to lock but the trunk opens fine ever time.

a few have said the connection on the inside becomes weak and breaks some it has to be re soldered
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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From: Beiseker AB Canada
The fast blink means you have a burnt out bulb, could be front or rear. Easy to check which one.

Not sure how the Balt cancels the signal but there is normally a cam type setup under the wheel that trips the switch back to center as the wheel returns to center. May be broken or worn. Not an easy part to get to on many cars, not sure on the Balt though.

Lots of people having problems with the fobs, if you are handy with a soldering iron you can take them apart and redo all the connections. Might fix it, might not.

Last edited by DaBuzzard; Jul 8, 2010 at 11:59 AM. Reason: lolz, 2 minutes too late ;)
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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From: Riverside,CA
Originally Posted by DaBuzzard
The fast blink means you have a burnt out bulb, could be front or rear. Easy to check which one.

Not sure how the Balt cancels the signal but there is normally a cam type setup under the wheel that trips the switch back to center as the wheel returns to center. May be broken or worn. Not an easy part to get to on many cars, not sure on the Balt though.

Lots of people having problems with the fobs, if you are handy with a soldering iron you can take them apart and redo all the connections. Might fix it, might not.
still u explained it well, i think better
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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From: Beiseker AB Canada
Well thanks for that

Still curious on how to get to the cancel mechanism - my old beaters you had to pull the wheel off (major pita btw) but I suspect that if you take the lower cover off the column it will be accessble at the base of the turn signal switch.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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blinker fluid is low.

as for the key fob.... i'm thinking the flux capacitor sensor groun wire is lose, tighten that bolt down and it'll be fine.

good luck
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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From: metuchen,nj
ive tried before to fix the fobs in the past.no luck soldering.i have my spare one now.i will try to raplace the battery in the other.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 06:36 AM
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left rear blinker is out .thanks for the info.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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awesome thats an easy fix
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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From: Kathmandu
The part of the fob that breaks is the battery holder/connection. There are three or four posts that go from the metal framework that holds the batter, down through the circuit board. The solder breaks or the post break off the holder. If it's just the solder that broke, you just need to remove the battery, remove the old solder, and re-solder the posts back into the board. It's so easy, a 10 year old could do it. If the posts are broken, you're just screwed.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SSlobalt
The part of the fob that breaks is the battery holder/connection. There are three or four posts that go from the metal framework that holds the batter, down through the circuit board. The solder breaks or the post break off the holder. If it's just the solder that broke, you just need to remove the battery, remove the old solder, and re-solder the posts back into the board. It's so easy, a 10 year old could do it. If the posts are broken, you're just screwed.
that doesn't always work. My lock and unlock buttons don't work and my trunk works fine just like the OP. I re-soldered all the posts and still doesn't work. I also replaced the fob battery and that didn't help. I read somewhere that buying a new fob and swapping out the new rubber buttons into your current fob does the trick. I'll be trying that soon.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 01:26 AM
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Ya the dealer wants 90 to fix the fob when a new one is like 130
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 06:58 AM
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I am having the same trouble with my fob. I will have to look at the solder connections.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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the fobs have a tripod clip that form kinda like a holster and the battery slide in, the welds are made for circuit continuity so they have very little material holding it in place and do not support the weight of the battery, so avoid droping your keys or hard shocks to the keyfob from throwing it on the table or tossing it to somebody, mine had all 3 solder points broken, real easy to fix, but I'm lazy and haven't fixed it yet, I'm using my spare, lol, (when I fix it, I'm also going to re do the good one, so it doesn't happen to it also)
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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yeah if you fix your key fob but to completely fix it make sure you take mild sand paper and cleen the contacts where the buttons go they will get grime on them and not make good contacts
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Sandpaper? I use alcohol but never tried sandpaper. Would think that would scratch off the really thin metal. I just looked at mine and the two metal pins are broke loose from the solder. I'm going to wally world and get me a gun and some solder and fix this baby. Thanks everyone for posting the fix for this problem. I would have never known what is was on my own. Thanks.

Last edited by Jeffs 06SS 2.4; Nov 7, 2010 at 08:57 PM. Reason: added
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:39 AM
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Mine still dont work right. I soldered the two broke loose pins and it work a little better. I think the pad i worn out.
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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I just put in led tail lights in my cobalt, wasnt thinking and when i plugged the new lamp to where the factory bulb plugs in, i put positive to negative... so after it didnt work i saw what i did then plugged them in the right way. now the lamp that i did that too, when it is on it runs as bright as it should when the brake lights are on. but the other one runs normal. now when i hit the brakes or use the turn signal for that side there is no response. just bright light. does anybody know what i should do
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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try plugging in the other light to that side and see what changes. small chance u messed up the leds by hooking them up backwards. much bigger chance that one was wired improperly from the factory (the parking and brake wires are separate from what i herd)

oh and u shoulda made a new thread or at least posted in one similar to ur issue
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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my fob has a similar issue with the unlock not working right while all others do found the rubber pad wasn't closing the circut, as I could use a small screw driver across the unlock area and it would work every time. Havnt thought of a simple fix for it yet, any one have an idea...........?
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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u can try the ebay insert solution. people have also suggested cleaning with alcohol but that didn't work for mine
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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thanks a lot, and sorry im new at this
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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its cool man just letting u know. tell us how it turns out once u get to testing out those lights
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Try cleaning the connections on the fob with a soft white pencil eraser.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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not trying to bring back a dead thread, but i when my fob went out and i just bought it in FEB(now its June) I thought battery, but when it stopped working it LITERALLY stopped working once i got out the car after driving( i used it to open the car) i took it to the dealer with a receipt showing i bought it there, they just reprogrammed it again and it worked fine...

but the blinker switch... was there a solution for that? i didn see one.. mine is doin the same thing, you put the blinker on and it wont turn off when the steering wheel re-corrects its self.. both left and right blinkers.. just curious if a new blinker switch is needed or a piece in the steering wheel needs to be fixed... or BLINKER FLUID?!?! lmao!
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