willing to be this may have apart in it. have you jumped the terminals on the starter to see if it will crank?

 

is it fixed yet?

 

you do realize there is TWO clutch switches.

 

Hello guys. Im new at this forum thing. I have an 06 ion redline which is basically the same thing as the cobalt ss. Having problems cranking. Engine wont even turn over. Almost like a bad starter but it wont even turn on with a kick start. Checked all fuses and relays all have power.

 

I had a similar problem when I downloaded a Trifecta program and it didnt take right. I went to crank the car and nothing. My first thought was I couldnt believe 15 min with the ignition on would drain the battery. Well I went around and my headlights were nice and bright. So, I thought, just maybe.......I reloaded the stock file while biting my nails ans it fired right up. So, what I learned, a PCM issue can prevent the car from cranking. I'm sure it can occur for other PCM related issues then a botched Trifecta load. These days PCM issues are rare, but it does happen.

 

My problem when the car was running. Im not sure if its related but i was not making boost. My tune has me at 18 psi and i would only make about 4psi i could hear my blower working but very little psi and engine power. Then i cought boost and it turned off... now it wont turn over and i cant hear my fuel pump priming

 

I've been having the same kind of problem lately. It happened after I got the boost gauge and wideband gauge installed. Everything turns on like OP stated except the car. It happens so randomly. The only thing that stays constant when it happens is that my turbo timer flashes my battery voltage around 12.0 and my "Service Airbag Light" comes on. I also believe my anti theft light is on too. When it actually does start, it doesn't hesitate at all. The other day I turned the car off and started it back to back like 30 times and it started right up every time. Did anyone ever fix the problem?

 

My grandson,s 2006 Cobalt SS , just shut off, and the engine will not crank when tried. The battery& starter are Ok, and he tells me that they have had a problem with the crankshaft sensors going bad. I am a mechanic and would like to know if anyone knows what the ohms readings would be on a known good sensor.

 

Does anyone know what the ohms readings for a known good crankshaft position sensor would be.

 

I believe it's 580-720ohms and 1-2Vac cranking but I'd have to double check to verify.... I'm just too lazy to check at the moment to be perfectly honest.. lol

That should put you within the ballpark though.

 

Update: Months later and it's still doing the same exact thing. Everything powers up fine, sometimes it starts fine other times im sitting there for 30 minutes turning the car on and off and turning the key back and forth before it starts up just fine. Any ideas?

 

Does the theft light come on?

 

Negative. No theft light

 

Hmm, bcm issue? Starter issue? I know when my car doesn't start the theft light comes on.

 

Not sure about BCM. Had a new starter put it in months ago. and it will start eventually it just takes about 15 minutes of trying and sometimes it takes 5 minutes or sometimes it will just start the first time. You never know lol. The only other thing i've noticed weird that has happened is my boost gauge is stuck, just stopped working I believe it's just wore out though.

 

Take the starter down, clean the mating surface where it goes to the block very well. Clean the ground cables going to the trans joint in the area also.

Make sure the ends of your power cables are clean and tight.

You have a simple mechanical issue if it's actually clicking. All the electronics in the car will stop it from cranking at all and you won't hear that solenoid click, anti-theft will let it turn but not start/start and die.

I'd bet, within an hour, you could clean all the connections and make it work. That's one thing nobody ever does, the starter grounds to the block and has to carry a lot of current, if there's grime on there you won't get any ground and it won't want to engage.

This exact issue drove me insane on a maxima I did an engine swap on until I ran new grounds and cleaned everything up.

 

I have a theft issue where my power just turns on. No click and the theft light is on.

 

If someone could make some pictures of this and help me because I looked and am not very car handy of what I need to clean that would be awesome.

 

From the bottom, there are two bolts holding the starter to the bellhousing, and it comes out. Gotta pull teh big power wire off and the small trigger wire. All of them are on the back of the starter. Once it's out, you clean the surface that it bolts to. Be sure to disconnect the battery or at least the positive jump start terminal at the fuse box before taking it out.

I'll look for a pic on here, gimme a min

 

Just curious but where does everyone ground their trunk battery at? that may be the problem to. its like grounded to a shitty piece of metal n-rigged.

 

It can be grounded anywhere to the body near the battery, if the stock location is messed up somehow, clean an area nearby and bolt it down there. Make sure there is no paint, just bare metal. Put a little grease on it to prevent rust if you do take it down to bare metal though.

 

Are you getting any codes? The common denominator in all these problems stated is that the boost gauge gets stuck. I'm currently experiencing the same problem my boost gauge is stuck at 0 I beileve it's either the app sensor or the tps sensor. Putting in the new gas pedal after work if that isn't it going to change the tb for the tps. Yours sounds more of an electrical problem not a mechanical issue try unplugging the blue connector of of your ECM to reset it( with the battery disconnected) then hook everything back up and see if that helps

 

Also you could have the dealership check the PCM I found that gm put out a service announcement that some of our cars were having PCM issues. Enough of us that they put out an announcement for it. Worth a shot

 

[QUOTE=Coblasts;6669950]Easiest and first thing to check (Note check all fuses with a meter either using the ohm setting with the fuse taken out or on the dc setting checking both sides of the fuse with one lead to ground)

In anyway is looking at a fuse to see if it's blown a good enough check unless it is charred black!!!!

Missed this on disconnect battery and check PCM connectors are seated properly.

1)purple wire on the starter has 12v when trying to start the car(feeds the selinoid from the crank relay)crank fuse 30 amps under hood fuse box

2)Power passing through the clutch switch,yellow and pink wires should have power on both sides to ground
When cluth is depressed.(circut is fed by the fuse 16 on the bcm hvac/ip ign)no power check fuse

3)For the ignition switch there is another fuse on the Bcm(IGN SW /pk3 2 amp fuse shows on the prints

4) Also there are two others fuses worth checking under the hood (they are labeled bcm 3-30 amps and bcm 4 -40 amps they feed the starting circut as well.

5) For the switch itself:
There are five wires
(Terminal number in brackets) example (6).

White/black (6) 5 volt dc part of the theft deterrent

Red/white (2) 12volts dc fed from the bcm ign/SW fuse(for actually turning on the crank relay when you try to start the car)

White wire (5) looks like 5 volts passes through the switch to the bcm when car is started (Not sure on this one)

Yellow (3) 12 volts dc fed from the switch back to the bcm from the switch to the crank relay when car is started(should read 12vdc here I would think when trying to start the car)

Brown (4) 12 volts dc ,Feds the theft deterrent modul and the ignition lock selinoid .

Hey I got power to all the theft **** with a meter reader.... But when I turn key I'm not getting anything. When I run a jumper wire off the ignition plug in wire to the battery post and turn key forward it will start sometimes. But I've replaced starter my buddy thinks ignition switch. Idk never had an issue with it. Then one day did a no start then would start and wouldn't start for.sbout 3 months as long as it was running it was fine after you shut.off it would be a bitch to start. Need help

 

Car ran hot one time and I turned it off and coasted when I came to a stop it wouldnt start back up it just turns over no codes are popping when plugged up I've checked fuses cleaned injectors cleaned starter connections tried unplugging and replugging sensors back up, checked plugs and coils just can't figure it out any suggestions?