Alright, I've tried searching but I need a fast answer :P
So my car was acting weird in the rain again 2 days ago, didn't really use it yesterday and certainly didn't go WOT. I used it today to go to school and didn't WOT it again, until the MAF sensor completely dries.
After my exam, car started normally, after the first stop it bogged down. Started it again, it was in this extreme lazy mode, just had enough power to make it to the side of the road until it died on me again. It doesn't want to start anymore...the crank is working, battery is working fine...its just sitting there on the side of the road in a parking area and I don't want it to get towed by the city. Is there anything I could try to fix it? Maf sensor problem? I really don't have a clue

If someone has a idea of the problem, would be really appreciated!

 

Try unplugging the maf

 

Start with the basics. You need fuel, spark, and compression to start the car. Before you go checking every sensor on the car check those things out. You can easily check the first 2 on the side of the road with basic tools

 

Tried that...didn't work

I'll bring my tools tomorrow morning with me. Sorry to ask, still trying to become a better mechanic. But how can I check them? :S

Thanks for the help btw guys

 

For fuel, flip the key over so the fuel pump kicks on but don't try to crank it. After the pump kicks off, look on your fuel rail and there should be black cap that unscrews which will show you what looks like a tire valve. Make sure you are not in front of it when you do this, but then use a screwdriver to depress the valve and it will release pressure from the rail (should be enough pressure to shoot fuel 3 or 4 feet. If it does move on to injectors, if not probably the fuel pump is bad. To check the injectors take the bolts out that hold down the rail and pull the rail and injectors out of the head. Have someone crank the motor for you while you hold a rag over the injectors to see if they are spraying (will make a huge mess if you don't cover them). Easiest way to check spark is to get a can of ether and spray it in your intake. If you get a backfire or the car tries to start you have spark. If all that checks out fine could be any number of things. Good luck, hope it's a simple fix for you

 

Alright so I'm getting really depressed. I got it towed to a garage. So the spark plugs were drowned, so he installed new ones. I payed 450$ including towing for spark plugs, and now its still not running right. The car gives gas on its own not to stall, rpm goes from 300 to 2100, goes back to 300-400 on its own. If I try to drive I have to ride the clutch all the time for it not to stall and I can't go faster than 10-20 km/h, and thats on a flat surface and with a really bumpy ride. Is this what people call limp mode?

So the mechanic told me that the next step is to check if the MAF sensor is working well and check for vacuum leak...anyone has other opinions?

 

Look for a pending code. My car died out over a week ago and it ended up being a crankposition sensor. Replaced it and cleaned the throttle no more issues. What you think might be the cause could be something else. Running a full diagnostic on it would be best.

 

Thanks for the reply! The mechanic did a full check on the car, and I still have 2 codes on, one for the car running lean (but I know its running rich), and the second one because of a sencor. My sheet is still in my car parked at my friend's place. I'll go with my laptop tomorrow to read the code. So could it be the MAF sensor, crank sensor or TB? Thanks!

 

Ya definitely could be any one of those sensors causing the issue. Mine just ended up being a crank and a dirty throttle body compacting the issue of the stalling out. When it happened the car felt sluggish the entire day and when I came to a stop behind some traffic and then took off the car started bucking and then shut off. The car didn't start for about 5 mins till the sensor cooled off a bit but then it started and ran perfectly fine for the rest of the week. Pulled the codes and the Crank position sensor through a pending code so i just threw one in over the weekend and it took car of one problem. Now I just gotta get rid of my KR up after 5800rpm and I will ok

 

Happened to mine and foun that i cracked my intercooler. It has plastic end tanks. Maybe this cud be it?

 

Hes a SC not a TC so there's not an intercooler like one on the TC.

 

Definitely sounds like a sensor, probably could be cam or crank sensor. Pending codes should help you out

 

did you by chance clean your MAF at all with MAF cleaner?

 

I work today but I have a day off tomorrow. I'll know the codes for sure tomorrow

Yes, me and the mechanic cleaned the sensor. It's 90$ for a new one...I think I'll just take a chance.

 

Alright just to post feedback. The balt is back on the road lol. Soooo the problem was the MAF sensor. In case someone searches and finds my post

 

Did you have to get a crank position variation relearn when you replaced the crank position sensor? im facing these same issues car stalls, wont start when engine is still warm. Ive already done....
Purge solenoid(it was needed), SCIP sensor, fuel filter, spark plugs, MAF/IAT sensor, cleaned and visually checked air filter, throttle body cleanse, visually checked all fuses and relays(under the hood), visually checked all wires and connections(uth), will be replacing the BARO sensor soon(since its throwing codes p0069 and p2228) and car still goes into limp mode, stalls and wont start....
I should say i JUST had an engine replacement done. Ive heard it needs a crank relearn when the engine is replaced but many people say i dont need a relearn, so not sure. TIA

 

If you have codes for the CKP variation not learned, have it done. I have replaced the sensors before and never had to do a re-learn. Hot stalling and no re-start is almost always the CKP, replace it with an OEM one, they are cheap enough.

 

No codes for the crank, period, have been coming up. i've just done enough research and learned a faulty crank position sensor causes the issues ive been having. My shop friend told me its actually uncommon to get a code for the crank sensor, which i thought was odd considering its a pretty important part.
I had just read in another forum that when the engine is replaced or the crank sensor is replaced, it needs a relearn, but my shop friend told me its not necessary at all.

 

It's usually not necessary.

When my CKP failed, I got no codes either, it just shut down when driving, and wouldn't restart. First time was just a couple seconds. Next time was 5 minutes until it would restart. 3rd time, I had to have it towed home. Next morning, before I changed the sensor, it fired right up. Once I changed it, I had no further problems.