Recently replaced tob, Clutch pipe, master cylinder with adjustable rod from zzp, elbow and the line between it and the master.

So far I have not been able to get a consistent result in bleedin, I've tried manual bleeding which I've always hd good luck with, and drawing vaccum from the elbow while using the manual method but I only get a little fluid or little air from time to time.
Any ideas? I'm going to pick up a rubber stopper to try the other vaccum bleed method but not sure if I understand it completely.

 

Do you have a vacuum bleeder already? Sounds like you still need to get all the air out. I would try and vacuum bleed it to get most of the air out first. Did you fill up your throw out bearing with fluid before you put it in?

 

I did not fill it up, never did that before? I've had the trans and motor out before and had no problem bleeding the systen, but i didn't replace the master at that time. Right now I only get a little fluid once and a while out of the top of the elbow

 

So when vaccum bleeding from the reservoir do you need to supply fluid from the lowest point at the elbow?

 

By now you should only have to top it off when you vacuum bleed. So don't worry about supply during the procedure. If the reservoir does actually get low, just take off the rubber stopper, fill, and resume.

What is not working for you?

 

I've only gotten the reservoir to drop like a qtr inch. I get very little flow at all just a little fluid here and there

 

I'm thinking applying a vacuum to the bleeder at the clutch elbow should help. Sounds like you may have a lot of air in there and you are just pressurizing the line without any where for it to go. Do you get any fluid when you open that bleeder?

 

Do the vacuum bleeding procedure as per GM, apply vacuum to the resevior, for 5 min or so, then release and pump the pedal 15-20 times smoothly and slowly. Reinstall the vacuum adapter and do it again. For me, after 3-4 cycles, I start to get a pedal, and the next time makes it perfect. There is very little actual volume in the clutch system, you shouldn't see a lot of fluid drop. But the vacuum pulling on the bottle makes the small bubbles grow and float to the top. Works for me every time, with no drama.

 

^THIS^ I've done at least 18 of these and the vacuum bleeding following the GM procedure works every time. It requires more patience as it consumes some time but you will have a nice stiff pedal in the end with no mess.

 

I start doing it as soon as I've connected the lines. So while i'm still fitting the fuse box and other odd parts, I keep re-setting the vacuum every couple minutes. When i'm done, I get in the car and drive away. No mess, no fuss, no second person needed.

 

Nice method

 

Always fill it up first. It took mw literally 10 minutes to bleed and get it right with a primed or prefilled tob.

 

Me too. Glad Powell told me to do that when changing it. I pretty much had no issue bleeding mine in short order.

 

He did mine for me, now i changed my tob for new engine and clutch and made sure to do it. Will probably do it just before install just to make sure lol

 

Awesome guys appreciate the advice. I finally got it to bleed and it feels great. I had no luck until I shortened the clutch rod all the way and it started working last few times I've bled the clutch line it wasn't completely dry, but when my tob went I noticed a bunch of crap in the line so I replaced everything from tob to reservoir.

 

Yeah if you have the adjustable rod you need to shorten it or the stroke is too short to let the master pull in new fluid.

I hate those adjustable rods, such a bandaid fix for an improperly sized pressure plate.

 

You dont need the adjustable rod

 

Your totally right,I wasn't sure if I did or not because I was having issues before so just kind of threw one at it. Haha not always a good thing though