LilHaile

Yeah, I think the guy that is working on my car is going to talk to a friend that works at the dealer and see if they can swap it out today. Mainly cause it is just a GM part nothing special so we will see. I guess the other guy around here that has the SS/SC had two bad in a row before getting a good one. Anyone know if they make a better throw out bearing/Slave cylinder for our cars? Seams they have lots of issues with them after doing some research.

Bika

iTrader: (3)

I don't think anyone makes a different T0B for us. For the lsj cars, the lnf T0B is actually the recommended upgrade :-\ The only issue I have is the incessant rattling coming from my stock one.

LilHaile

that sucks.... wonder why no one had ever made a quality one.

Whitnith

iTrader: (2)

You mean the one that makes such a racket that you sit with the clutch in at lights, to keep people from giving you the stink eye for the noise it would make otherwise? Not that I do that at all...

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

couple of things. The OP has certainly gone through a lot, and at 35k miles this is not such a low mileage, but its unusual for this to happen on an LNF. That said, clutches are clearly defined a "non warranty" wear part, and its clear listening to the OP that the dealer did not treat him nicely.

That said.
The LSJ did not have a very robust clutch pressure plate, the lining was not that bad, but the pressure plate failed often. Area47, a street and drag racer and tuner of some renown on this and other forums got 90,000 miles out of a stock LSJ clutch running well over 300 whp on a TVS and stronger valve springs from day One with the car.

I ran an LSJ clutch for three years on the road race track,no problem but when I got to the drag strip right away as it heated up the third gear shift release started to get difficult, as the clutch pressure plate did not have enough clamping force and would slip unless you waited for it to clamp.

The GMPP upgrade is basically an LNF clutch and TOB with a different disc center section and disc lining; I have seen one blow up after 150miles, between CED and myself we ate the clutch and labor and warranted it, but this is probably what happened: winter, wind up the wheels spinning on snow , hit dry pavement "bang" lining is gone.

The concept of driver mod explained, that customer has not done in another clutch.

Exedy do a hyper single clutch, its noise its good for well over 700 whp, but I have seen one destroyed. In this case, even though it was not the clutch fault, Exedy sprung for a new one. What happened here, it was an LSJ Ariel Atom, it was on the dyno, and the operator did not decouple the drive train after the pull on the over run. Fatal.

The rattles that folks experience with GMPP upgrades or exedy clutches is not the TOB its most likely the center section springs and it will get worse as the springs loosen up.

Here are some of things that cause clutch issues:
People ride the clutch. Most will say "no way" but the fact is, check what you do.

I bet you do not take your foot completely off the clutch, and return your left foot to the dead pedal, shifting from first to second.
riding the clutch kills the disc lining.

I bet that shifting from second to third, you shift fast and do not get your foot off the clutch pedal before you get back on it.
not letting the pressure plate clamp the disc kills the disc lining.

I bet that sitting at a lite, you wait in gear clutch in, rather than shifting to neutral and taking your foot off the clutch while waiting for the light to get set to turn green.
Clutch pedal in for long periods kills TOB dead.

All this aside, the OP is sort of buried here. Just as I risk getting buried for suggesting the 99% of clutch issues are due to a driver mod needed, the OP in slamming GM, the dealer, etc etc, has not left himself any way out.

I 100% agree that dealers should handle things better at the service end and have a plan of action laid out ahead of time to deal with such a difficult item. Difficult in this case because the OP car had low miles, and dealers find it too s easy to be hard on younger drivers.

The way I see it, there is little way out down in Virginia for the OP and I can offer no ideas on a reputable place to go where he might be treated fairly, and the dealer and GM have probably not done all they could have done in this case to do right by the OP.

My .02 cents

LilHaile

Yeah, if they would have told me that it wasn't covered under warranty due to the miles and stuff I would have paid no problem. But its just the fact they claimed it would be covered and then the next day they tell me no they wouldn't cover it because they don't warranty abuse. That is what got me upset with them.

I will admit I do hold the clutch in at stop lights but I have the car in neutral as well, but I do always return my foot to the foot rest to the side of the clutch between shifting gears.

I'm just upset right now cause the faulty brand new GM TOB is costing me more in labor because it was faulty from the factory. I mean I know it will happen occasionally but after doing some research it seams to happen way more than it should.

I do appreciate your input and the info about holding the clutch down while at a stoplight, I didn't know any better, so now I will def be sure not to do that anymore.