that's the same issue my car had. I tried to ignore the c/e light but, the car was wasting to much freaking gas for a 4 banger. not even my tahoe v8 wastes so much gas. Took it to the dealer, and they tried to pin it on me for "lack of maintenance" I told them I just bought the damn car about 5 mths ago w/ the 3/36 remaining. They checked their system and sure enough, I was right. Finally, they replaced the injectors.

 

So i traded my GM performance exhaust for a friend's DC sports exhaust just for the hell of it. i dont regret trading, although i had some problems...

first, the bolts wouldnt screw in right so i had a hell of an exhaust leak (took it to the muffler shop and they fixed it) .. then my buddy put the o2 in wrong and the wires were pressed up against the heat shield. the mechanic at the shop told me the wires on the o2 had been split causing me to throw 4 cel's... so i left.. driving on down the road the car begins to run like complete **** (had been doing this since i first put on the DC Sports) .. would deleting the rear o2 make me run correctly again?? tomorrow i was supposed to get my rear o2 deleted anyway for the p0420 code so i can pass inspection. do you think by me deleting the rear o2 these codes and problems will go away?? Thanks!!!

codes are as follows...

P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Sensor 1 ECM, PCM
P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Sensor 2 ECM, PCM
P0102 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Frequency ECM, PCM
P0443 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control Circuit ECM, PCM

P.S. tried to remove them with my interceptor and they just keep coming back...

 

*shakes head*

why oh why do you get yourself into these things my friend?

you know there's a whole crew of us right down here in Charlotte with HPTuners that will be glad to fix you up.

 

If your missing the rear 02's the car should still run fine. There is something else going on.

 

^^ yup

rear O2 only checks your cats efficiency.

something else is definately going on.

 

I had the same thing happen to me when I put my hahn cat back on. Check your ems fuse under the hood(10amp).If it's poped you have a straight to ground short on youf o2 sensor. Look for bare wire then tape it up.My would do it when I made a right hand turn and the exaust would swing left an touch the heat shield and pop a fuse. Good luck

 

problem fixed, your welcome

unfortunatley HPT won't fix a wire shorted to ground

 

Exactly what was wrong. Thanks man.

Huge thanks to Sunburst_SS for pin pointing the problem!

 

no prob. dude.....that's what GM pays me the big bucks for lol

 

!!!I LOVE YOU ALL!!!

Ive been throwing those codes for 2 months without a solution, i was ready to buy new o2 sensors because of it!!

I've searched and never read this sollution!!

 

if you have a manual transmission....there was a bullitin for wires rubbing on the clutch pedal assembly, and by the oil filter housing. It'll cause an intermittent code, might want to check that out

 

would that be a P0833

 

here's what SI says about the blown/loose emissions fuse.......just something to check if you're having those codes thrown


There are 2 main areas to look at for the cause of this blown/loose fuse.

Check circuit 5291 for a short to ground (STG) at the clutch pedal position switch connector as it might get shorted to the clutch bracket. If connector looks ok, then inspect the 10 amp emissions fuse in the Underhood Electrical Center to ensure it is properly seated.
Note: This clutch position switch connector is there even on automatic vehicles.

Check for a short To ground (STG) at the oil filter adapter housing.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.


basically a p0833 will set when the ECM senses a certain number of gear changes without
detecting a clutch switch movement.

 

Nice, I stickied this, I think the issue might be the design of the older ZZP midlengths putting the o2 sensor to close the the wall, and when the engine shifts during driving it can cause it to rub. As I have/had the same issue going to a shop and having the o2 sensor rub as the OP mentioned.

 

good, glad I could help

 

Did you change your fuse in your fuse panel under your hood? It's like the EXH fuse.

 

Yes i did, there is a spare 10 in the box.... Then i cleared the codes with my DashHawk, and they didn't come back

 

Yes sir. Same thing I did. Now my car runs normal again, no spuddering or anything.

 

Glad I could help.

 

so all that for a 25 cent fuse?

damn... go figure...

good save Sunburst...

 

i have the PO133 and PO135

EMISS fuse never been popped but replaced anyway

replace O2 sensor 1 with an OE replacement bosch sensor

Ran thru the diag procedures for both codes with no luck

no rubbing can be seen

any thoughts

 

There are 2 main areas to look at for the cause of this blown/loose fuse.

Check circuit 5291 for a short to ground (STG) at the clutch pedal position switch connector as it might get shorted to the clutch bracket. If connector looks ok, then inspect the 10 amp emissions fuse in the Underhood Electrical Center to ensure it is properly seated.


Check for a short To ground at the oil filter adapter housing.

maybe you're getting an intermittent short on the circuit.....check that out

 

checked for shorts for ground and checked the clutch harnesses

rerouted and secure all the connectors and harnesses by the oil filter with zip ties

any other thoughts?

Have never popped the emiss fuse but on my scanner it show the O2S1 heater dropin for 0.6A to zero amps intermittantly

 

you measure resistance on the circuit?? make sure the wire is actually good.....

 

I had the P0833... Clutch Position Switch... All i did was erase the code with an OBD2 scanner and it never came back up, i just figured it was a fluke