Hey guys,

So, some of you might have remembered my last thread where I put a ZZP header/dp combo onto my 2.4. But for those of you who don't, here's the story. But please help out. I need to get this fixed asap.

Here's where it begins.

I got a 1st gen ZZP header/dp system off a local guy and decided to throw it on myself. Wasn't too hard, it just took forever with the wrong tools. Once I threw it on initially, it sounded like ass. It was a catless system. I knew I needed a cat for inspection, so I was gonna put one on eventually, but it was so bad I only waited a few days. Car is running normally aside fro ma laundry list of CEL's. All to be expected. So, a few days pass and I go over to Minekie to have them weld a cat in. It sounded way better initially (until the packing wore out), but then afterwords was still better than before, but still not to my liking (especially with an auto). However, as soon as I got into the car to leave from the cat getting put on, I got the t/c light on my dash lit up. In an auto when that happens, the car shifts REALLY hard because it's in a weird protection mode for the tranny. It sucks really bad. It's nice when you're going fast because there's no lag, but when you're in traffic or something, it's horrible. The whole thing shakes. So, a few days after that, I went to the dealer to get the thing looked over. They scan it with their professional machine (since a code reader didn't do ****), and the CEL and t/c' lights went off. The car was driving flawless (just still loud). A week later, the CEL randomly came back on again, and then a few minutes later, the t/c light did too, as did the hard shifting. Totally randomly. I'm furious at this point. I just spent 50 bucks for them to flash it, and now it's back. So I decide to replace the system with my stock header/dp again because I was told it'd fix my problem (because of flow and cat/sensor placement), but also because I liked the sound better. The power increase was nice, but I can't stand CEL's that won't ******* go away. lol

This is where the story picks back up.

So, yesterday I put the stock system back on and pull the positive terminal for a good 30 minutes. Pop it back on and the damn CEL and t/c light is still there, even though it's back on a stock system. The guy who did it has a scanner too, and he scanned the codes out, but it came right back on. I don't have the codes written down, but it's stuff about the 02 sensor and some heater pack type thing..??

I have no clue what is wrong here, and I'm getting quite pissed. This is my daily driver, and I ned it to work. I was gonna get it tuned with HPT while I had the header/dp, but I'm not getting it tuned anymore. I'm just leaving it exactly as it is now. I just need it to be reliable. As soon as I get this fixed, I'm good to go. Does it just need another full reset at the dealer? If so, why did it come on again last time? Will it again? Could one (if not both) of my 02 sensors be bad? If so, how much are they and are they hard to replace? Would that've caused it? I have no clue what else to do. My narrowband AFR it's reading anymore either (likely because of the 02 sensor issues in the scanner readout).

Trust me, any help would be fantastic. I am getting quite irritated at these goddamn computer controlled pieces. It it's something easy to fix that I don't need to get done at the dealer, I'd really enjoy to do it that way.

HELP!!!

 

Might have damaged them.

If it were a 420 CEL have the car tuned and the CEL removed

 

I would drive it for a few days before you take it to the dealership. The codes SHOULD go away if there are no other issues. Generally the scan tools you get from the auto parts store for cheap will only scan the PCM. The dealerships have what's called a Tech II that scans all the computers in the car. The T/C light comes from the BCM if I'm not mistaken.

The O2 sensors are easy to replace but the actual process of replacing them isn't what you should worry about. It's the cost. I'm not positive but I'm guess they are probably about $75 or $100 each. they are expensive because they have a heating element in them to heat them up faster so they will read correctly (older cars used to stay in a closed loop mode until the car warmed up and the heat from the exhaust warmed the O2 sensors up to operating temp. The heated O2 sensors allow the car to enter the open loop mode faster).

Bottom line is drive it for a week and see if it goes away. if that doesn't do it you might have to bite the bullet and have the dealership reset the computers again...

 

Alrighty. I'm going on vacation in a week. I'll drive it until then. If nothing changes, I'll go down. Thanks for the input guys.

Any other suggestions though?

Seems like the t/c light and shifting issue is directly related to the CEL though since the t/c light came on a few minutes after the CEL did again.

Why would the CEL and t/c light come back on a week after getting scanned by the dealer machine?? It worked perfect before that.

 

As you said before it's a protection thing. The different computers work together even though they opperate independant portions of the car. If one system senses a problem and the programmed response to that issue is to put it into a protection mode then that's that the computer is going to do. It would come back on because the problem hadn't been corrected. Normally the computers reset after a certain number of on and off cycles or a certain number of miles after the computer no longer senses the problem...

 

So that's why the CEL stayed on while I had the header/dp on (because there was still a "problem")..? So that's why the CEL and t/c light came on even after a dealer flash? But since I'm back to the stock combo, the light really shouldn't come on again after a dealer flash, correct? If so, I'm driving it over a cliff. lol.

 

Yes that's correct. However if you or someone else damaged the O2 sensors or something else is still hinky then the light will still come back on. When the clear the codes ask them for a list of what they are and keep them incase it comes back on again. however I would drive it for a few days at least and see if they go off on their own. As I said before IF you correct the problem they should go out on their own after a certain amount of miles or on and off cycles...

 

I will agree with the reset on the cel, but we'll have to see about the t/c and shifting issue. The cel isn't my problem. Hell, I could give a **** about the traction control. But the shifting issue is a problem.. lol We'll see.. Thanks dude.

 

Are you still under a powertrain warranty?

 

How long is that for? I'm almost at 60k. It was a 48k lease. lol. Plus, I spliced into the wires for my Shift Plus that is now since removed (and yes, those connections are solid).

 

What year is your car?

 

I says in my sig. haha. 2006. The problem is the fact that it's an auto. If it wasn't, there would be no more of a problem than a pesky CEL..

 

Well it depends. For 2006 some of them had 36,000 mile powertrain warranties and others had 60,000 mile powertrain warranties...

 

Hmm.. I'm guessing mine might be the 60k since it's a lease. They probably figure it'd save their ass if I turn it in. But, I'm just waiting a few more days to see if it resets it's self. If not, I'll take it down again..