katriik

Hello everyone.

While ago, my steering wheel was pulling to the right when accelerating and to the left when braking.
Bad Control Arm Bushing, more specifically the driver's side.

Bought Powell's bushing - they look awesome.

Decided to install them this weekend.
Started disassembling the arms.
Both cage nuts decided to spin freely inside their cage.
Had to break the cages out so I could use a crescent wrench to free the nut from the bolt.
Most "Horror Story" ever! Small space, horrible access. This is a perfect torture!
Fortunately, did not have to cut or drill anything.

Passenger side Control Arm came out after a full day.

Driver side bolt decided to stick to the sleeve of the bushing.
Followed Powell's advice and took the cradle down.

Heat and hammer did not help in separate the bolt from the sleeve.
Any advice?

Thank you very much.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Can you cut the bolt and take it out in pieces and buy new hardware?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

You're either going to have to soak the crap out of it to get the rust to let go or just cut the bolt from the subframe.

If my memory is correct this is the bolt you need https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

katriik

I can. However I don't have the tools for that... Yet.
I'm thinking about using a vise grip to see if I can lock the sleeve.
If that doesn't work, cutting will be the option, unfortunately.

Yes, this is the bolt. Read it somewhere else in this forum.
I was wondering if anyone has the cage nut part number, because I believe I'll have to replace those as well.

Thanks guys.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I have a feeling the cage nut isn't a common part number, you might have to hit up a dealer for that. As long as you didn't mess the threads up you should be able to reuse the nut.

Bass_Waves

iTrader: (24)

Trans fluid + acetone.

double clutch

iTrader: (1)

Reciprocating saw and various blades. Ive done it a few times with that. Its a hassle and takes some time but it works

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

X2

This mix works awesome.

mzspd

Sigh.. Not looking forward to doing this.. Hopefully mine come out nice.

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Mine came out super easy. Did a side in 30-45min from uninstall to taking out old bushing and putting the new bushing in and reinstalling control arm

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

mine came out fine but didnt want to go in with a hand operated hydraulic press. im 265 and had all my weight off of the ground and they wouldnt go in. went with an automated hydraulic press and went in like butter

no_ss

iTrader: (2)

Hmm something doesn't sound right if you couldn't get it in with a hand operated hydraulic press. Something was binding. Mine went in like butter with a hand hydraulic press. I'm 205 and just had to push it. If you have to put a lot of effort into it you shouldn't try any further. Something may slip out from all the pressure and hit you harder than you think.

katriik

After breaking both cage nuts, having to lower the cradle, having to buy a terrible reciprocating saw and 3 blades (all damaged), a ton of PB and WB40, propane torch, vise grips and a hand saw, two scrapped t-shirts and (fortunately) a very supportive wife, I finally managed to take the damn driver's control arm out.
Now time for bushing replacement.
It was supposed to be a 45 minutes job, but became a 1 week nightmare. I hope I can end all this by tomorrow.

63 Nova SS

iTrader: (3)

Good luck!

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

So glad we don't get rust like that down here. Glad you got it fixed but that sounds horrible.

katriik

Talking about rust... I have some rust spots on the cradle that I would like to take care prior to reinstalling it. Does anyone have advices on how to handle rust?
I mainly want to remove only. Later this year I'll request an antitrust application.

Thanks again guys for the support.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Wire wheel on a drill/die grinder is the best bet, spray some paint on it after as if you leave raw metal exposed it will rust quickly anyway.

cluelessk

Know a guy that bought a STi from Quebec and it's so rusty. Here in Winnipeg they use more sand than salt so cars hold up a bit better. Beats up the front end paint though.

Driven my '08 in 3 or 4 Winters and it's still pretty clean underneath. No rust on the body just tiny surface spots on suspension and cradle.

katriik

The one I have is 2010 and from NB.
Honestly, it is very clean under it.
Maybe the owner before did not use it during winters or had taken very good care of it.
Me, I'll have to use it during the cold days... Since bike on ice to go to work is not a safe idea... Maybe fun, definitely not safe.

katriik

Question: on the picture below, the ring that is around the bushing's hole, is it part of the arm or the oem bushing? Thanks.

katriik

I know what I'm gonna ask is quite stupid... But are you sure?
Because when I see other pictures, this ring does not seem to be present.
Have a look:


EDIT: I'm just trying to confirm because if it is not, I'm about to cut it so I can remove it.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

No that is the shell of the OEM bushing, it needs to come out.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm my memory must be failing me then I remember a lip when i replaced mine. I guess its been awhile since then my bad

katriik

Confirmed by Mr. John Powell (the guy answers emails on Saturdays - he knows how to satisfy his customers): it is the shell of OEM bushing, and I have removed those.
Thanks guys.

katriik

Hi guys.

I finally reinstalled the subframe back in place. Yeeeaaah!
Question:
Do I torque the bolts when the car is on the ground or can I torque them while on the jack stands?

Thanks.