Hope this helps others
You will need Hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes. 1 1/2 rubber stopper fitting for connecting vacuum line to stopper
1) Place rubber plug in master cylinder
2) then pump up vacuum pump to 25 28 in.Hg
3) Then pump clutch pedal 25 to 30 time quickly (brakes up Air bubbles)
4) You should see fluid and air bubblesgoing to catch jar
5) Replace Cap and pump Brake pedal and clutch pedal until pedals pump up
6) Repeat if nessasary may take 2 to 4 times

 

Another shoot of the Plug for master cylinder

 

Did you have problems with clutch slippage before you blead the master cylinder? did this help at all?
Also where do I get my hands on one of these vacuum pumps, and the accesories to connect to our master cylinder?

 

Hand Vacuum Pump Auto parts Store
Rubber Plug 1 1/2" At top Lowes
Drill hole thru center of plug install Fitting Plastic Compresion hose Lowes
(could get hose coupling also)
I installed new clutch had problems with shifting and pedal posision and full disengaugement

 

And how is it now?

 

Well after doing the bleen i went out for a drive. The clutch felt alot more like the stock one. As far as shifting at high RPM's the car went into 2nd pretty easy but still wouldn't allow me to power shift. Going into 3rd the problem was still there but not as bad. I was realy impressed on how well it worked so i tried to bleed it again, this time i don't know what happend but when done it felt like crap again. So i tried to bleed it again for a 3rd time and it felt alot better again (the same as the first bleed). I was still disapointed i can't power shift or get 3rd still but it is a big improvment. When i got into my car this morning to drive to work it felt good but about half way here i felt my clutch stiffin back up, so i tried to sift at a high RPM and the problem is back. It was really weird cause the clutch was really light, then when i pressed it in it just got stiff and went back to the way it was. I don't understand how it went away then came back after driving for awile. I am going to try and bleed it one more time today.

 

Ive been hearing that we have a rubber master cylinder or something? I assume the hoses are just as shitty???? Maybe this isnt allowing enough pressure to go through the lines???? therefore clutch will not engage properly?

 

How did you polish your supercharger?? What did u do? or did u get someone to do it for you?

 

That is what alot of us believe will take away our problem. No one has come out with any replacement steel braded lines for the clutch. I got a quote from a shop to put hard lines in and they wan't 250-300. I think that is way too mcuh so im still looking around to find a cheeper shop. Replacing the lines is on my to do list.lol

 

I did it lots of sanding and polishing spent $50 on materials and 30 hours laber

 

I did as these instructions suggest but still can't get all the air bled out of the system.
I have a 1983 Chevy / 1/2 ton with a hydralic clutch with a master and a slave.
I had to replace the line that goes from the master cylinder to the slave but I did not replace it with a OEM which is wire wound flex hose with connectors on the ends.
The reason being is they wanted $80 for this flex hose so I replaced it with gas line hose that is rated at 50psi. Could this be the problem? Should I have bit the bullet and replaced the old flex hose with an exact OEM?
I do notice as someone presses the clutch that the gas line hose I used expands a little and it also moves a little. Could this be too much expansion between the master cylinder and the slave.
I hope I didn't make this too confusing.

Thanks,

budz

 

So on step 5 I am taking the vacuum pump plug off and putting the MC cap back on?

 

I never pump the clutch while you have the system pumped down with vacuum...

Just apply vacuum, wait a couple minutes, release it, pump the pedal slowly 5-10 times, check fluid level, re-apply vacuum. Repeat until you have a proper pedal.

 

Holy crap, did not read this before replying...

You are gonna burst that line and lose everything, please put a metal line back in that location, even if you get a piece of brake tubing and do it yourself. Pressure in that system is MUCH higher than a fuel line can handle.

 

^^^ Give that the post you replied to was 5 years old, I would guess he has already done something else even more stupid and removed himself from the gene pool..........

 

Bump my pedal has a slight bit of slop in the 1st inch or two of pressing the clutch pedal .. I want my pedal back to stiff all the way at the top .. doing this procedure more than once will solve my problem ?

 

Doing some searching around, having my KY stage 3 done now. Tech is "power bleeding" the clutch, is that not good seeing as how I see people talking only about manual or vacuum?

 

Manual is the best way hands down. power bleeders work such as up has it but sometimes they don't remove all the air. Manual bleed is way bettwr

 

I have a 2005 that went through the same problem with the clutch spent two months on it come to find out you cannot resurface your flywheel you have to buy a new one gets rid of all of the bleeding and the problems with your clutch

 

Does the hose in the plug extend into the fluid ? or does it just extend into the rubber plug ?

 

Just into the rubber plug, you want to pull air out not fluid.

 

Did my clutch and TOB but TOB won't fully extend and it looks like I'm getting all the air out from the bleeder nipple coming off the tob hydraulic supply line at the top of the bell housing. Any advice would be appreciated greatly.