cracked oil filter housing
Originally Posted by chris88z24
Just quiksteeled it. Let's see what happens.
no wonder they dont want to touch it, they dont know what else u messed up. thats probably what they r thinking.
not defending them at all, just sayin.
I was driving when I noticed the leak. I put quiksteel over the perforation in the metal so that it would stop losing oil, and then drove it to the dealership the next day.
It doesn't change the fact that the defect is still there, regardless whether or not there is a layer of epoxy over it.
My friend is on his way over to my place right now. We're armed with a 2002 Sierra HD Duramax, a 16' car trailer, and me with about 3 rum n cokes in my bloodstream.
I'll let you guys know how the repairs come along.
My friend is on his way over to my place right now. We're armed with a 2002 Sierra HD Duramax, a 16' car trailer, and me with about 3 rum n cokes in my bloodstream.
I'll let you guys know how the repairs come along.
Last edited by chris88z24; May 19, 2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Next week I'll be fixing the casting at my expense; it's getting welded. GM is pointing fingers at the quiksteel and the fact that my car was in a wreck back in December. In short, they won't warrant the defective oil housing strictly because of those two issues they discovered. What a joke of a company.
This is my first NEW GM purchase, and will be my last. Even though the repair will only cost me about 50-100 dollars out of pocket, and the time needed to disassemble the engine down to the block so that the housing can be accessed, but that's not the point. I paid just over 20,000 USD for this car and I should not have to be spending my own time and money to fix a part that is defective from the factory AND is listed as covered under GM's powertrain warranty contract.
This is my first NEW GM purchase, and will be my last. Even though the repair will only cost me about 50-100 dollars out of pocket, and the time needed to disassemble the engine down to the block so that the housing can be accessed, but that's not the point. I paid just over 20,000 USD for this car and I should not have to be spending my own time and money to fix a part that is defective from the factory AND is listed as covered under GM's powertrain warranty contract.
I had the crack welded today. It was great for about an hour, and then began leaking just as bad as it did when it wasn't welded.
I'm stumped. We are going to try and re-weld it tomorrow, and look it over for a crack we may have missed, but if that doesn't fix it then I am not sure what I am going to do. This wouldn't be as bad if GM would just man up and fix the godforsaken car like they are supposed to rather than fabricating a bunch of irrelevant excuses to save themselves some money.
I'm stumped. We are going to try and re-weld it tomorrow, and look it over for a crack we may have missed, but if that doesn't fix it then I am not sure what I am going to do. This wouldn't be as bad if GM would just man up and fix the godforsaken car like they are supposed to rather than fabricating a bunch of irrelevant excuses to save themselves some money.
Spent 12 hours welding, disassembling, reassembling, welding some more, reassembling 
The ******* pain in the ass part is you have to rip everything off that's in the way of that housing. Supercharger, IC hoses, vac hoses, intake manifold, alternator, etc. So it was very time consuming to have to rip all that apart, weld, re-assemble, and then see that it's still leaking.
We did this about 3 times, each time finding some minor crack in another ******* location. After nearly 12 hours! of screwing with the car (2 of those were wasted looking for a ridiculous high pitched whistling vacuum leak) I finally got it to stop pissing all over the place. I just put about 20 miles on it, and let the motor get up to around 195*f (my fans kick in at 190 so the car doesn't get much hotter than that, even idling), and still no leaks. Knock on wood, I have had such awful luck with this car in the past few years.
Time for a road trip.
The ******* pain in the ass part is you have to rip everything off that's in the way of that housing. Supercharger, IC hoses, vac hoses, intake manifold, alternator, etc. So it was very time consuming to have to rip all that apart, weld, re-assemble, and then see that it's still leaking.
We did this about 3 times, each time finding some minor crack in another ******* location. After nearly 12 hours! of screwing with the car (2 of those were wasted looking for a ridiculous high pitched whistling vacuum leak) I finally got it to stop pissing all over the place. I just put about 20 miles on it, and let the motor get up to around 195*f (my fans kick in at 190 so the car doesn't get much hotter than that, even idling), and still no leaks. Knock on wood, I have had such awful luck with this car in the past few years.
Time for a road trip.
Good luck with it. If the welds don't hold, I'd say you'd be further ahead to just get a new block and transfer all the internals over, possibly using upgraded components in place of the stock ones.
They held for the past 500 miles, with about 2 hours spent being stuck in a traffic jam in 95 degree heat.
Now I have a clunk on the passenger side that I hear when I brake in a straight line at speed, or when backing out of a parking space. It never ends with this thing, I swear.
Now I have a clunk on the passenger side that I hear when I brake in a straight line at speed, or when backing out of a parking space. It never ends with this thing, I swear.
Just your CAB, my 09 does this...er DID this, the control arms put alot of leverage on a rubber bushing, doesn't last very long. Thankfully even aftermarket they are pretty cheap.
To the people who suggested the cap could be overtightened...your wrong. Next time you do an oil change note that the cap has an edge that meets with ANOTHER edge and bottoms it out when it's sufficiently tight...aka you cant tighten it any more than the contact between these edges.
I understand your logic, but it's not a pipe thread it does not try to expand into the threads, its sealed with an o ring and has a physical stop to prevent it from tightening past the sealing surface. There is very little stress at all on that particular part even if it's tightened too much.
To the people who suggested the cap could be overtightened...your wrong. Next time you do an oil change note that the cap has an edge that meets with ANOTHER edge and bottoms it out when it's sufficiently tight...aka you cant tighten it any more than the contact between these edges.
I understand your logic, but it's not a pipe thread it does not try to expand into the threads, its sealed with an o ring and has a physical stop to prevent it from tightening past the sealing surface. There is very little stress at all on that particular part even if it's tightened too much.
They held for the past 500 miles, with about 2 hours spent being stuck in a traffic jam in 95 degree heat.
Now I have a clunk on the passenger side that I hear when I brake in a straight line at speed, or when backing out of a parking space. It never ends with this thing, I swear.
Now I have a clunk on the passenger side that I hear when I brake in a straight line at speed, or when backing out of a parking space. It never ends with this thing, I swear.
Just your CAB, my 09 does this...er DID this, the control arms put alot of leverage on a rubber bushing, doesn't last very long. Thankfully even aftermarket they are pretty cheap.
To the people who suggested the cap could be overtightened...your wrong. Next time you do an oil change note that the cap has an edge that meets with ANOTHER edge and bottoms it out when it's sufficiently tight...aka you cant tighten it any more than the contact between these edges.
I understand your logic, but it's not a pipe thread it does not try to expand into the threads, its sealed with an o ring and has a physical stop to prevent it from tightening past the sealing surface. There is very little stress at all on that particular part even if it's tightened too much.
To the people who suggested the cap could be overtightened...your wrong. Next time you do an oil change note that the cap has an edge that meets with ANOTHER edge and bottoms it out when it's sufficiently tight...aka you cant tighten it any more than the contact between these edges.
I understand your logic, but it's not a pipe thread it does not try to expand into the threads, its sealed with an o ring and has a physical stop to prevent it from tightening past the sealing surface. There is very little stress at all on that particular part even if it's tightened too much.
Anyways, if you do a ton of work on your car, a torque wrench is a must.
Last edited by Nighthawk243; May 31, 2010 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Different one.
I'm heading over there with my friends' duramax and a 16' car trailer, and I am taking my car to my local welder and having the crack fixed first and foremost. Then I will fix the squeaking sound that is supposedly a 'blown engine bearing.' Lastly, I am going to drive back to this dealership and do a burnout in the service area.
I'm heading over there with my friends' duramax and a 16' car trailer, and I am taking my car to my local welder and having the crack fixed first and foremost. Then I will fix the squeaking sound that is supposedly a 'blown engine bearing.' Lastly, I am going to drive back to this dealership and do a burnout in the service area.
vid??
Every automaker in the world could learn a thing or two from Oshkosh Truck. Their proving grounds is a no bullshit put it through the ringer and do jumps with 80,000 lb vehicles at 65 mph kind of testing. They pride themselves on putting dents in bodywork and flattening tires in the process. But it gets better. It doesn't matter if the new private ROLLED it or if it was hit by a IED, if it's a new truck under warranty you better damn believe you will either A. Get a replacement truck from depot or B. The will provide you with a tech to help fix it or parts if that isn't possible. They have a fully backed 24/7 nationwide service network for both Military and Commercial vehicles, no bullshit I have seen an Oshkosh tech under the hood of a runway sweeper at O'Hare in freakishly cold temps just so the operator could have his cab heater again. That is epic and the reason why that company grows. I just don't see how or why anyone could spend 25 grand on a car and simply allow the maker to roll them over every time it has a problem. The sad thing is, it doesn't matter if you spent 25 or 65, the same practice applies. For that kind of money they SHOULD pick your car up and drop it off for you, provide courtesy rentals, shuttle services, be in contact with you daily for updates, offer you coffee and a sandwich or at least be like BMW who will go out of their way to provide you with a loaner car equivalent to your normal car.
GM needs to step up and force their dealer network to represent their service guarantees or risk losing their ability to sell the cars at all, I mean, which is worse, the industry worst customer service (yea, used to be Ford...) which turns so many people away from returning to GM or losing a problem dealership to maintain a standard. Even if GM lost a 1/4 of the network, this doesn't hurt a thing in my opinion...there is always KIA.
Sorry OP, you should have PUSHED HARD on GM to fix it, (if you were under 60K).
GM needs to step up and force their dealer network to represent their service guarantees or risk losing their ability to sell the cars at all, I mean, which is worse, the industry worst customer service (yea, used to be Ford...) which turns so many people away from returning to GM or losing a problem dealership to maintain a standard. Even if GM lost a 1/4 of the network, this doesn't hurt a thing in my opinion...there is always KIA.
Sorry OP, you should have PUSHED HARD on GM to fix it, (if you were under 60K).
i gotta side with the dealer on this one though. the first time they saw it was after he slathered it with that quick silver stuff. now hes tryin to WELD it? yea good luck with that.
it's irreplaceable. you could either tig weld it, jb weld it(which has never failed me) or mig weld it with aluminum wire. it's not that bad man, just watch your oil level til you fix it. also i'd reccomend pulling the motor for this. and don't forget to disconnect the negative cable if you do weld.
something you're too scared to do.
something you're too scared to do.
Last edited by stanced_balt; Jun 1, 2010 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Like I said, it's been fixed with a MIG and my local dealer nor GM themselves would honor the powertrain warranty in order to fix their shitty design. Anyone who works for a GM dealer, let alone on the cars, should be smart enough to know that an epoxy putty won't cause an engine block to crack. Again, as mentioned earlier: Why in the BULL ******* HELL would I just slather an epoxy putty onto my engine's oil filter housing? For ***** and giggles? The technician who looked at the car said that there was an internal bearing failure from running the car low on oil (there was a squeaking noise coming from the motor at the time I brought the car to them). Do you know what that noise turned out to be? A belt off by 1 rib on the A/C compressor. What kind of a person who calls themselves a PROFESSIONAL in their field cannot tell the difference between an accessory drive belt squeak and a spun bearing? Incredible.
In addition, their excuse was that the epoxy CAUSED the crack. I'll let you guys draw up your own conclusions but in the end I am the one who owns this car and I chose to have it welded because I simply cannot reach into my back pocket and pull out 6 thousand dollars to have GM fix the car the way they want, which (surprise, surprise) would have been at MY EXPENSE.
I paid $24,095 (that was the MSRP anyway) for a Chevy Cobalt that I thought would make it easily to the 150,000 mile mark that my old 88 Cavalier did. It's not even halfway there yet and the car feels like it's on it's last leg. I'm more than willing to sacrefice some interior design quality and deal with shitty fitting and looking exterior trim pieces and what not, but when it comes to the drivetrain, the most important part of the ******* car, I expect that to be absolutely flawless. If I had taken a hammer to the housing or something and cracked it myself, then that would be evident. Hell, the dealership didn't even attempt to remove the putty and inspect the crack for themselves. They took the easy way out and decided to save themselves a few pennies (and it is pennies out of their pocket, bankrupt company or not) and labor time in order to **** over a once loyal customer to their business.
I wish there was a way to get a hold of somebody higher up in the company, but instead every time I e-mail or call their customer service line, I just get some run of the mill phone answering dummy who most likely doesn't even know how to change their oil regurgitating the same line of bullshit that the dealer has told me.
Shitty situation to be in, eh?
In addition, their excuse was that the epoxy CAUSED the crack. I'll let you guys draw up your own conclusions but in the end I am the one who owns this car and I chose to have it welded because I simply cannot reach into my back pocket and pull out 6 thousand dollars to have GM fix the car the way they want, which (surprise, surprise) would have been at MY EXPENSE.
I paid $24,095 (that was the MSRP anyway) for a Chevy Cobalt that I thought would make it easily to the 150,000 mile mark that my old 88 Cavalier did. It's not even halfway there yet and the car feels like it's on it's last leg. I'm more than willing to sacrefice some interior design quality and deal with shitty fitting and looking exterior trim pieces and what not, but when it comes to the drivetrain, the most important part of the ******* car, I expect that to be absolutely flawless. If I had taken a hammer to the housing or something and cracked it myself, then that would be evident. Hell, the dealership didn't even attempt to remove the putty and inspect the crack for themselves. They took the easy way out and decided to save themselves a few pennies (and it is pennies out of their pocket, bankrupt company or not) and labor time in order to **** over a once loyal customer to their business.
I wish there was a way to get a hold of somebody higher up in the company, but instead every time I e-mail or call their customer service line, I just get some run of the mill phone answering dummy who most likely doesn't even know how to change their oil regurgitating the same line of bullshit that the dealer has told me.
Shitty situation to be in, eh?
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