xtremeGM

I couldn't agree more about the dealerships I'm fed up with the dealerships around here. I have to take my car in next week and I know its going to be a big headache. They always try to accuse me of something and my car has been stock until last month when I added my intake.

an0malous

Ive been really lucky with my local dealer, service manager races a 5.0 stang, and his sister has a black ss/sc, and half the shop also go out to the local track (5 minutes from us)

they day they put stage 2 in my car they were all askin me if i would be out at the track cuz they wanted to see how it does.

the stories i read on here really make me thankful i have a dealership thats ok with modding (within reason)

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

ok well back on point.... check the harness connector... I've seen a few pop loose and do the same thing and throw the car into limp mode.

p.s. I told you the other day to make sure all your parts were off the car before bringing it in. Anything and I mean anything aftermarket they can say made it break (voltage draw from wideband for example) and void your warranty... trust me, they already did mine in 3 weeks after I got the car (not that I"m complaining though, I do better work then most dealerships anyway)
but hit me up later and let me know what happened

Red2.4SS/SC

ok guys or should i say ladies with all the bickering going on lol jk , ok the dealer WILL NOT TOUCH MY CAR , he said he WONT void my warranty but he will not service my vehichle i thought it was bullshit but whatever , so what i am going to do now , is get my car towed home , scan it with hp tuners, and im about 99% sure it will be something with the throttle body , the reason im assuming it something in the throttle body is because when i took the blower off to put on my 2.6 i forgot to plug in the sensor , and the car is acting the EXACT same way it was acting when the sensor was unplugged hence me assuming that its something in the throttle body , another thing is that the car runs FINE for like 5 miles and then ***** up so its something janky with the car its not a MAJOR problem

06blackg85ss

iTrader: (1)

dude I told you... unplug it, check the grey locking part is out all the way... and put it back on and then push the lock. I had the same problem with my friends car. Took me 3 hrs to figure it out cause it looked and felt like it was actually on when it wasn't fully plugged in

WopOnTour

This is GREAT advice. Listen to THIS guy.
You're asking for trouble if you go in there telling them what's wrong. (If you REALLY knew what was wrong, you wouldnt need to bring it into the dealer in the first place right?)
So do yourself a favor when you bring it in for these types of problems and just tell them exactly what you were doing when it occured, and exactly how it behaved in your own words and leave it at that.

I mean, unless you're willing to tell them the truth about what you might have been doing with HPT and all...
(******* with your PE & VE perhaps??)
You never did say exactly WHICH DTC/s are setting, but MANY can be set through an erroneous tune...
Wop

Red2.4SS/SC

i went into the dealer and told him what happened , thats it , i didnt show them posts , i didnt even show them the reciept until they asked for it , they simply denied my warranty claim

bc of the 3.o pulley and the thing IMO that really pissed him off was the wideband HAHAHA and that doesnt even add horsepower , thats how stupid this dealer was , ****** idiots

NightriderCobaltSS

wow yall got some shitty dealers. i got 60's with a 2.8 my intercooler pump failed , replaced under warrenty, my had a crack in the flex pipe replalce under warrenty even got a rental under warrenty casue they didnt have the part in stock.

an0malous

So when i went into the dealership, explaining a problem i had with my car feeling like its "surging" under mid level acceleration....
i should have just shut my mouth, and ONLY given them the symptons.....
instead of showing my service manager a post by a guy on here who had my EXACT problem, and listed a GM reflash # for a stage 2 reflash that helped him?

i mean, sure granted they likely would have found the reflash anyway.....
but I see absolutely no point whatsoever in acting like a retard, just in case you may bruise some techs ego because he cant fathom the idea of listening to someone whos not "certified"

IMO thats complete bullshit.
and any tech who is so full of himself that he cant listen to an idea from a customer, that takes all of 30 seconds to listen to....would not be working on my car anyway.
I dont pretend to be some pro mechanic. but I did a degree in Aeronautical engineering, and i have a decent head on my shoulders....and im not gonna play dumb for anyone.

WopOnTour

Look the guy YOU talk to in the drive-thru is NOT a tech, by any sense of the word (well rarely they might have been a tech years ago, but probably got out of it for good reason)

So anything you say regarding what YOU think the problem is... is just lip service. It goes right it one ear and out the other.
So unless you have any REAL qualifications (ie ASE certification, journeyman licence or whatever) All you're doing is making YOURSELF feel better.

Even from some of the things you've said in THIS thread... I can tell you dont have a clue...
Nobody's asking to "play dumb" BUT "Just the facts ma'am"
Wop

Halfcent

For what its worth...

Your vehicles warranty is not a single thing. If you have ever seen a warranty report for you VIN, it is broken down into many different parts. So while dealer could argueably be within their rights to void the powertrain portion of your warranty, the rest of your car is still covered.

I learned this because I thought my powertrain portion was in fact voided due to my build. My dealer knows all about it. Yet, they did not void it as I learned after the check.

an0malous

the guy i usually talk to is the service manager...who spoke to the tech and handed him the piece of paper with the reflash number on it....

And as i said at the end of my post. I know I may not be some pro mechanic. but im qualified to wrench on F-18s, and im not an idiot.
and if i have a decent idea, based on research that ive done on a problem. i see no problem passing that on.

I dont walk in there pretending like i got **** all figured out. and tell them what needs to be done. I tell them the information ive gleaned from researching the issue....and let them use it how they wish. so far it has helped a few times.

But apparently, customers are all idiots....and techs are gods....and we should all be good little retards and just say "I dont know sir....it just doesnt work right *blink blink*"

zinner

Ok, SOME people working at a dealership hate their jobs and could give a **** about you, your car or customer service... It's just a job.

I would say that maybe 20% of the people working at any job care about doing a good job and take pride in what they do.

Sorry but I had a terrible experience at my dealership lately. I won't get into in this thread, but I shouldn't of wasted my time/effort even bringing my car there. And normally I don't have the dealer fix my problems but in this case I figured I would give it a shot, instead they took my car for a 5 mile joy ride to do the headliner recall and fix my sunroof bezel which they didn't fix. I went to open my sunroof and the bezel fell off... I am nothing but curtious and understand with them and all the do is walk all over me.

an0malous

they test drove your car for a headliner recall?

id be pissed at that too.

StinkBOMB

Hey whoa guys, don't do any thinking, Wop says that's a bad idea. "Just the facts Ma'am".

WopOnTour

Fair enough.
But just like in aviation, there's a guy who works on the GE or P&W turbines, and others that light work on the landing gear or bang sheet metal and never touch a turbine. There's a specialist tech who deals with the diagnosis and repair of the flight avionics, and perhaps another who specializes with the ordinance delivery systems. It's really no different in a dealership, especially in larger ones. The purpose of the individual at the drive thru is to gather all pertinent data from the customer and type into the R/O details. That is all. They are NOT to interpret and/or diagnose- that's NOT their job. So expending a lot of energy telling them your own theories will just set you up for disappointment usually.

I'll agree though, the reflash business can be frustrating. So I don't blame ANYONE for going in and saying "My car's idling rough at times, usually after it's been driven awhile" and "I read on the Internet that their might be a reflash to address this" at least in that case the RO might read...

Line 1: Check for rough idle condition hot
*customer provided copy of TSB#123-456-789

If you provide any more info than that, ya gotta wonder how much is lost in the translation before it gets to a "real" drivability tech (that believe me KNOW their stuff)

But too many people set themselves up for failure, but walking in waving a stack of papers they printed off on "some forum" ranting and raving about what SHOULD be done with their car.
It doesn't have anything to do with egos, it just doesn't work that way is all.


HTH
YMMV
Wop

Like I said, if you KNOW what's wrong, then you wouldnt be there- you'd fix it YOURSELF!
WOT

StinkBOMB

It is possible to know what's wrong and be lazy at the same time.

Spyd3rSS

Ok, all i have heard is horror stories about people with their GM warranty, i bought my car used from chevy with 6 k on it. I knew the salesman and the car was originally purchased by a 60 year old man that got take by a salesman and the car scared him. They offered to transfer the gm warranty for a small fee and then offered me a 3rd party warranty for 1800... so i got what is considered a "new car" (under 7k miles) and a warranty that the dealership can't void. When i read all of my warranty docs they have to show irreputable evidence that it was soley the aftermarket part that caused failure in order to deny THAT CLAIM ONLY. My suggestion would be next time anyone wants to buy a car for a factory warranty think twice and ask the dealer if they offer 3rd party warranties... just my .02 but i think that it would have saved alot of people a ton of stress and fights with their dealer. so instead of having a post about the guy at the dealership being a **** stain and voiding your warranty just be glad your not driving a kia and get on with life.

Red2.4SS/SC

or to want it to be fixed for free

im gonna have to be driving a ****** 500 dollar kia if this **** is too expensive to fix or if it keeps giving me problems

WopOnTour

Yea, I hear ya Zin
Personally, I blame the flat-rate warranty system for some of the attitudes. I mean if you get someone who really CARES about fixing cars, it's all good. But if all they care about is getting their .3 and moving on to something with some gravy on it, then you're going to get rushed, sloppy, unmotivated workmanship.
(Good thing they don't work on planes!)

My advice is to try to talk to the tech (if you CAN, some places that's even out-of-bounds) even just to find out if they can speak in coherent sentences. Every dealer has a WIDE RANGE of technician training and capabilities. But even the best technician minds go sour when flat rate dictates that something they are replacing should only take .6 and (for whatever reasons) it takes 1.6. They then spend the rest of the day trying to rape back that lost hour. Bad system from everyone IMO
Wop

jmrgar

new guy here and first time since we are talking about codes etc. i recently had my header and higghflow cat put on and now i need a (tickler) sensor because i threw a code anyone know what i'm talking about or have had this issue i could use some help here thanks

jeremie

a tp sensor can cause reduced engine power mode, but you should know you actually have two tp sensors. you need to have the dealership check the codes in your ECM before anything. Is your Check Engine Light on? Does the car start everytime, even when in reduce engine power mode? A good way to get by the dealers declining your warranty work is by switching back to "stock" or in your case, stage 2 parts. I understand you have stuff like a wideband and what not that may be difficult and annoying to take out, so you might want to find a new dealership who will repair your car. Who are you talking to at your current dealership? If its just your service advisor try talking to the service department manager. And like i said, if all else fails go to another dealership. The worst thing that can happen to any service department is losing a customer and getting a bad CSI score on their warranty surveys.

thats offensive! and its not always like that, i mean sure, we get screwed as techs by warranty time on some things... some jobs may pay 4 hours warranty time and customer pay time pay like 6.5 or something. but that doesnt mean we dont fix the problem, or at least try to as best we can. at least not in my case. granted some techs are different, and yes some are complete idiots and shouldnt be allowed within 50 feet of a car but for the most part, dealerships employ highly trained or experienced people. over 3/4s of the techs at my shop went to a 2 year college for gm speific vehicles and continue to go to the same place for updated training.

a lot of times, the car doesnt even get to the tech before the customer gets a call saying they're not getting their car worked on for whatever reason. if you have a service advisor who can see aftermarket stuff and feels like getting paid for selling something thats customer pay rather than warranty, he'll tell you your warranty is not being honored. keep that in mind, its not always the techs

Red2.4SS/SC

im talking to the head of the service department ,in his office , the guy has a bigger office than the rest of where the other people work in service combined , he was an idiot , and said he was not working on my car , going back to "stock" will cost around 200 plus another 200 when i get my car back to put the parts back on , if i go back to stock im getting rid of this car ,and buying a used 2002 ls1 (z 28)

an0malous

are there any other dealerships nearby?
sounds like your gonna hit a brick wall with those guys.

WopOnTour

LOL OK don't take offense. I KNOW it's not ALWAYS like that. (your words) but as you've also admitted, in the end it depends on the tech, and to no surprise the best techs tend to work at the best dealers, and the best dealers tend to have found ways to treat their techs fairly when it comes to distributing the work, warranty claims, and flat-rate and in a manner that allows them to earn a decent living without having to become a "crook" or feeling like "the system" is going to beat them down until they have no choice in pulling **** as they work.

I mean seriously, in the end, if it comes down to be able to feed your wife and kids and putting a roof over their heads, vs. raping the clock and "big money" GM or hosing some guy they've never even spoken to (customer) I think you can guess what takes precedence more often than not. This is why I like to promote asking to speak with the tech, even if it's just for some "pleasantries" - as once they put a face to the car, often it gets a bit more personal- in a good way.

But having been "involved" in a myriad of GM service capacities for over 28 years now, I can say without any hesitation that flat rate only really works well for RETAIL work or perhaps MAJOR warranty work . Like the stuff that pays 6.5 in the example you provided- (which BTW would be WHAT OPERATION exactly?) but falls short when in comes to the highly technical areas and detailed electrical diagnosis, where you're looking at STRAIGHT TIME at BEST! So the best trained, highest skilled tech is working "by the minute" for an 8-hour day, while he watches someone who's practically brain-dead replace Duramax injectors all day, every day, for a year to bank 16s!

So there needs to be some sort of incentives to get the the higher skilled guys some parity ! Some dealers have figured that out.(maybe yours?) These dealers dont seem to have the high turnover like some places. And they tend to a core group of guys that challenge each other to do the best job they can and to excel at their craft without worrying about the silly clock!

Wop



And BTW, the fact that there are 2 TPs doesn't even scratch the surface of the issue of "throttle related" DTCs. That's just the physical layer. There are no fewer that 15 DTCs with the "word" throttle in it's title (and not counting the APP inputs) ranging from simple circuit faults to complex performance or input/output correlation DTCs. THEN there's the myriad of Intake Air Flow Rationality (IFRD) DTCs, where a MAF or MAP DTC could actually be set DUE TO AN ISSUE WITH THE THROTTLE CONTROLS or almost anything that can cause a disturbance in their correlation to each other. The fact that the OP here mentioned "Throttle Position" issues only begs the question EXACTLY WHAT throttle position issues (which was what our man in Baton Rouge was attempting to get to the bottom of, before he was interrupted)