Idk how this happened. Don't ask. Drove home one day and when I got in my car the next day I noticed it seemed louder. Thought maybe I was imagining it. Next day I get in my car and its LOUD. Like straight pipe loud. I get on the ground and look before I came to work today and this is what I see.



Bolts look snapped. So this weekend I'm gonna go to AutoZone and grab a new gasket and rubber hanger. But hoping I can get the two halves of the bolts out, what size do I replace them with?

 

yep that sucks!!! I got some exhaust work to do myself lol dammit

 

Did you hit something maybe?

Anyway, I'm assuming you will need to drill out a spot for new bolts.

 

If you have access to an air hammer or a large punch you can knock those out. They are usually just held in with splines like a wheel stud. Depending on the hole size either a 10mm or 12mm bolt will fill it nicely.

Edit: Heat helps a lot, a MAPP torch will make removal of the stud heads easier.

 

in my experience, to hammer those studs out your going to need to support the back of the flange somehow or it will just bend. i find its a 50/50 chance if they will actually hammer out, or if you gotta end up drilling them.

 

Especially if you want to run the risk of breaking the studs off the manifold side of the downpipe.

 

Holy corrosion Batman. That's intense haha. Do you love right by the ocean?

 

It's possibke. I think the rubber hang down might've broke off and caused it to hang too low and I hit a bump or something and that hinge got snagged.

What if instead of drilling out new holes and putting just bolts.... I put bolts, washers and nuts?? Any reason that wouldn't work?

EDIT: It seems like that's what Platinum did from his pictures above.

 

You will be much better off with bolts and nuts through the whole assembly. Coat liberally with anti-seize when you install so the next time it isn't so bad.

 

then why dont they do this in the first place???

 

Factory normally uses self-locking fasteners, using crushed threads or chemical additives. Anti-seize impedes the function of those. If you use anti-seize, you should use a good mechanical locking nut/washer (ie. split-lock washer or serrated flange nuts).

If you were referring to the bolt/nut thing, the pressed in studs are cheaper. It's a simple cost thing for the OEMs.

 

pretty much lol... in nova scotia Canada surrounded by water... but that's just the header... notice the big crack in it!!.. got the car second hand.. new downpipe on it though lol

 

I bought my car second hand... I wouldn't go by that mess... dude was wacked more I look over the car lol... but suppose bolt and nut could work

 

I feel ya man. Bought my car from a small dealer and everything looked great. Then all the problems slowly started revealing themselves. Entire car is basically covered in bondo and its all starting to crack. Its amazing my car doesnt just shed its entire skin on the freeway honestly.

 

lol ****

 

So instead of starting a new thread I'm just going to revive thins one. I tried drilling out the bolts. Got one decently drilled out and moved on to the other. Started with my small drill bit then while I was drilling.... I sneezed. Drill bit snapped inside. Not even kidding. Can't get it out. Tried using bigger bits and everything and nothing. So I'm going to have to take it to a muffler shop and see if they can get it out or just buy a new exhaust.

So I put a bolt, lock washer and a nut in the one side I managed to drill out and tightened down but there's still a gap on the side that's effed up.

But my question is.... Is my car driveable in the meantime?

 

Yep

Will be loud with a chance of exhaust fumes, but it likely won't kill you.

 

Alright good. Someone said something to me about backdraft or something. Something to do with air going back up into the engine.