Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Engine coolant temp

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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 12:59 AM
  #76  
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Your header shouldn't be in the way.

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The thermostat is on the far left of the engine in this picture, well clear of the exhaust manifold and components.

Oh, just found this for you: 2.0 LSJ Engine: how to: replace thermostat(with pics)
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 08:26 AM
  #77  
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Thanks usmc this will help
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 07:24 PM
  #78  
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Hey guys I got my new TSTAT in the mail today from rock auto however my question is should I be able to see the bleeder jiggle valve that I paid extra for ? According to their diagram it should be on the underneath side, pics below let me know what u all think. The part number on the box is correct as it did match up with what's on their site.

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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 08:07 PM
  #79  
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That T stat doesn't have one but I wouldn't be worried.


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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 09:01 PM
  #80  
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Thanks HGT I guess my concern is that as you can see from the pics below Rock auto had 2 different ACDelco models one was for $15 & the other double the price for $30. I paid for the $30 one & the only difference that I could see between the 2 was that the more expensive one had the bleeder valve. I may need to ask for a refund not sure

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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 09:09 PM
  #81  
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both say no jiggle pin weep hole.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 09:31 PM
  #82  
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Your right E I see that now however up top it says it has it & then when you click on it has a diagram. O well just wondering why the one I got was double the cost, hopefully it's good quality
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 06:47 AM
  #83  
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Pricing on rock auto can be weird sometimes. I think it depends where they picked up the product. I have seen the exact same product, priced very differently, based on how the part was labeled. Hard to say why yours was priced differently without doing some digging.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 07:48 AM
  #84  
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Thanks JD & thanks for the input guys I'm cool with not having the bleeder valve my only concern was if I did have it where it was located so that I install it the correct way however with it being confirmed that my TSTAT doesn't have a bleeder valve I don't have to worry about that.
No worries thanks again boys!
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 10:55 AM
  #85  
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you could drill a small hole for the bleed port.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 10:59 AM
  #86  
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What's the reason for the valve over a hole?
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 11:03 AM
  #87  
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so that air passes but not water
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 04:32 PM
  #88  
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Question for you guys, I'm way to busy with work so I paid my local shop to replace my thermostat, anyhow they said that the bolt to the thermostat housing was stripped out. They said that the thermostat is still holding in there just fine even with the stripped bolt.

The last I spoke to was not able to confirm if they fixed the stripped bolt or not however she said that the tech made it sound like it was holding fine & that for now I have nothing to worry about as far as it coming out or anything

What are your guys thoughts on this ?
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 04:36 PM
  #89  
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Sounds like someone fucked up, they need to helicoil it.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 04:38 PM
  #90  
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Unless it's never been replaced, they fucked up lol.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 05:02 PM
  #91  
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I'd tell them to fix it at no cost to you. They are just trying to cover their own asses.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 05:44 PM
  #92  
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That was my thought, I just spoke with the tech who worked on it & he said that my housing has 3 bolts 2 in the back & one in the front & said the 2 in the back are nice & tight but the one in front is stripped

He said even though the one in front is stripped it's not leaking any coolant or losing pressure he said that it would cost a lot to have it fixed & to not mess with it unless I start loosing coolant

He also said that the reason why I was having issues with my new TSAT is because the rubber seal was completely eating away so much so that it had folded back & wedged itself! He said it was just a junk TSTAT to do that

I got it new from ZZP ?
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 06:09 PM
  #93  
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If it comes to it I have a used T-stat housing sitting around somewhere I would send you for $10 plus shipping. Header might have to come off to replace the housing though, I'm not sure. I wonder what they had in mind that would cost a lot to fix it. Helicoils are not expensive so I wonder why they wouldn't just do that. I think it would be worth fixing while the fuse box is out instead of half-assing it and hoping it doesn't leak later on down the road. Things like that aren't worth constantly wondering when it will fail IMO.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 06:27 PM
  #94  
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I'd bet that whomever did the last thermostat change was the one to **** it up, not the person that informed you about it.

You can replace the thermostat housing though... not that big of a deal. That'd probably be quicker and easier than trying to re-thread the hole.

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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 06:53 PM
  #95  
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Thanks so much as always I can rely on my Cobalt family to provide the best insight when needed! I agree with u guys I really don't think it's the shop that just replaced however we will find out soon enoug

My idea is if this bolt was stripped over 5 months ago & I haven't leaked one drop of coolant or lost any pressure then we will know that today's shop is the one who striped it if I do start to experiencing these issues however if it doesn't leak then we know it's the shop from 5 months ago
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 07:31 PM
  #96  
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If the tech stripped it this last time with no noticeable issues I doubt he would of mentioned it. Shitty but why would he risk it.

I'm betting it was already stripped.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 07:59 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Doug's Cobalt SS SC
My idea is if this bolt was stripped over 5 months ago & I haven't leaked one drop of coolant or lost any pressure then we will know that today's shop is the one who striped it if I do start to experiencing these issues however if it doesn't leak then we know it's the shop from 5 months ago
Not necessarily. Sometimes, if you cross-thread something real bad into aluminum, it'll typically hold well until it is removed. After that, all bets are off.
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 07:37 AM
  #98  
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Its common sense really. When ur standing still Or doing light driving in town ur coolant has a chance to get up to temp because ur not driving fast enough for the rad to be cooled by the little air hitting it. When u get on freeway and are driving fast u have a ton of cold air going through so u have A lot better cooling. But going down to 130 from 180 is a little odd. Depending if those temps are f or c. Mine would never go up past 140 on -30 days on 20 minute drive to work
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