Frequent continue to crank with key released
Frequent continue to crank with key released
09 Turbo Car, I have a frequent problem with the starter cranking on its own when I release the key, when it does this the car does not want to start, I have to turn key off and try again sometimes several times before car will start, after it does everything is fine. Being old school I suspected starter solenoid so I replaced starter, no help, replaced ignition starter switch, no help, replaced bad battery, no help, swapped relays around and I got 4 no problem starts yesterday but the gremlin was back this morning. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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There is nothing wrong with the starter. They automatically crank until the engine fires, even if you let off the key. The no or slow start on the other hand may be another issue? Unless I am misunderstanding the problem?
I think you understand the problem and the problem could be with whatever device sends a signal or fire for the engine to start, I put this engine in new year before last so sensors should be good but who knows.
Being ignorant to modern starting systems I think I may have been looking at this as a starter or starter component problem when I now think it is a slow to start problem since the starter is supposed to spin until engine starts. I have no codes , I think the new engine is a LDK and not an LNF and it now has 50K miles on it. It came with all sensors and high pressure fuel pump.
No start/slow to start could be a ton of things. Bad spark plugs, failing fuel pump, not getting air, compression problems, etc. I would start with plugs then check fueling next. With no codes it is going to be trial an error so I would start with the easiest to check/replace first and move on from there.
Check for RPM signal when cranking. Does the tach come up a little while it's doing it's extended crank?
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
Check for RPM signal when cranking. Does the tach come up a little while it's doing it's extended crank?
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.


