Frequent continue to crank with key released
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Frequent continue to crank with key released
09 Turbo Car, I have a frequent problem with the starter cranking on its own when I release the key, when it does this the car does not want to start, I have to turn key off and try again sometimes several times before car will start, after it does everything is fine. Being old school I suspected starter solenoid so I replaced starter, no help, replaced ignition starter switch, no help, replaced bad battery, no help, swapped relays around and I got 4 no problem starts yesterday but the gremlin was back this morning. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
I think you understand the problem and the problem could be with whatever device sends a signal or fire for the engine to start, I put this engine in new year before last so sensors should be good but who knows.
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Being ignorant to modern starting systems I think I may have been looking at this as a starter or starter component problem when I now think it is a slow to start problem since the starter is supposed to spin until engine starts. I have no codes , I think the new engine is a LDK and not an LNF and it now has 50K miles on it. It came with all sensors and high pressure fuel pump.
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
#8
Senior Member
No start/slow to start could be a ton of things. Bad spark plugs, failing fuel pump, not getting air, compression problems, etc. I would start with plugs then check fueling next. With no codes it is going to be trial an error so I would start with the easiest to check/replace first and move on from there.
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Check for RPM signal when cranking. Does the tach come up a little while it's doing it's extended crank?
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Check for RPM signal when cranking. Does the tach come up a little while it's doing it's extended crank?
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.
Next, check fuel pressure. On a DI engine, the high pressure pump is run by the cam so the engine has to physically turn to build up real fuel pressure. If the system is bleeding down when the car is off, it will take a couple rotations to generate enough fuel pressure to start the engine.
I would start diagnosing there first. Don't just continue to throw parts at it.