Originally Posted by SSVader

A timing guide screw sheared off and wore the head a bit. So, better safe than sorry and buy a new (used) head. I was quoted 600 for all new intake valves and 500 for the used head with the valves included, so cheaper to buy used. I am assuming that I will send off for a valve job on either choice.

"Another thing is because people unscrew the old tensioner like a freaking mad man, which you are NOT supposed to do. All you need to do is break it loose from the block, and unscrew it SLOWLY. You can visually see the chain SLOWLY losing tension. I suppose if you unscrewed the thing real fast it could jump but while you're unscrewing it, there should be indication whether or not the cam is going to move, in which you should probably stop and assess the situation by turning it by hand [the motor] a little bit. So if the cam shows no signs of moving, then keep going, but if you see it wanting to move, stop. It really shouldn't though. Not with the plugs out. You're not trying to fight compression so I don't see how this is happening. Nor have I ever heard or seen it personally. It's 99% user error."

What I did to remove the tensioner:
1. Take off valve cover
2. Remove spark plugs
3. Unscrew old tensioner, (and no, not like a "madman"),

This is all that caused my timing to jump. My chain was extremely taut between the cams, and extremely taut between the exhaust cam and crank, buy very loose between the crank and intake cam. Thus, when I unscrewed the old tenioner (which was still holding tension) the chain jumped to equalize the slack between the crank and intake cam (or between the cams not really sure which way it jumped). My car could have been in gear at this point I don't remember, so maybe that's why it jumped. So, I would disagree to say its 99% user error that my timing jumped. However, it was my fault that I bent my valves, I should have been more careful when I suspected the timing jumped.

Originally Posted by Coblasts

Well Im sorry you had such a problem ,but I dont think by reading this thread that it was a normal occurance and that the guide was probably broke off causing all your noise and prompting you to change the tensioner.
This I can see causing your problem(all the extra slack from the broken guide allowing to hang down off the teeth on the crank)
With all the guides in place I personally cant see the chain having that much slack.

How long did you drive the car from the time the cam chain noise started ?
And how bad was it ,meaning loudness.

Originally Posted by SSVader

I don't believe this was a normal situation either. I'm guessing I was driving it around for maybe a week. I finally noticed it at a drive-thru; I usually listen to music while I'm driving. It was hard to hear inside the cabin since I have a GMPP exhaust, but if you roll the windows down it was definitely audible.

I was working on it with two guys who are both more experienced than me. So, I'm worried this could have happened to most people (given my situation where my timing guide was also broken). People should take this repair seriously and follow the manual well. Not just unscrew the old and screw in the new.

Originally Posted by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx

Even 1 tooth off will throw a code! That's just bad luck man. If you have an exhaust and can't tell if your timing is off, there is a problem. Your car would sound like it had a monster cam. You'd have a sluggish motor and **** for gas mileage. You must have really not been paying attention. I don't know, I park in my garage every single night and I can always hear if my car is making an unusual noise as it will echo like nuts. I'm not sure how you got away driving like that for a week. Weird.

Originally Posted by SSVader

Had a code reader, can't throw the code unless you can start the car. I have a friend that works at Autozone and he brought out the code reader and compression tester.