turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

i havent been here in weeks but i needed to ask ya'll about it....i have been reading for weeks and havent fixed my car yet.....

i remember my car use to go up to 240's F (coolant)if left on for a long time.... after replacing t-stat and flushed coolant it dropped to 220s... replaced IC pump and went down to 201-210 F if left idle for long time... it wasnt until i bought the scan gauge that i started focusing on IAT's... yesterday outside temp was 88F... IAT 114..IAT2 149..... when idling for 25 mins after 20 min city drive... i turn on ac at full blast so it will help not go higher.. what could be causing this... i changed the oil a month or 2 ago and its NOT milky.... its 100 percent stock btw.... thanks in advance for replies...

Serpent_Servant10

Just my two cents, but maybe you should take a look at your fmi

rekameohs_nire

iTrader: (1)

i think your numbers sound pretty normal. coolant is usually around 180-215ish and the iat2 numbers are pretty normal too. mine are usually about 30 degrees warmer than the outside temp while cruising. and if you leave it idle they will go up as there is no moving air to keep them down

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

instead of checking the H.E., could i just add zzp S3 ? its an lsj , forgot to mention that

problem is that ive seen 163 iat2 once and scared me to death lol are you stock too?

Serpent_Servant10

Best set up would be ZZP stage 3 H/E, Dual pass endplate, and Option B. Your IATs will drop. They're especially useful if you decide to downsize your pulley.

rekameohs_nire

iTrader: (1)

^^ what he said

and no im not stock im pullied down with cooling mods

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

thanks guys, can i just install the HE for now? ive been having an almost complete S3 kit but trying to sell it, but i might keep the HE if its gonna help me..

chris88z24

You don't need all of those cooling mods if you're stock or even stage 2. Just make sure your intercooler pump is working...

Serpent_Servant10

He said he already replaced his IC pump. Yeah just the s3 heat exchanger will be fine. Just make sure you bleed it properly.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

yes, ive replaced the IC pump and works fine. i can see the swirl when i pinch the hose and compared to the old pump, this is like a water hose at full blast lol maybe i should install this some time this month... just to be in the safe side in case we have to evacuate cuz of hurricanes...

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Buy dual pass before HE

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

I have the s3 already, but not installed yet, is it better to install dual pass first?

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Get dual pass and install at same time

09CobaltSS1

What are you guys seeing for your iat2's after a solid 3rd-4th gear pull with the zzp s3 kit (or something close to) and dual pass if you don't mind me asking?

OttawaMark

iTrader: (3)

Q: high IAT's....... what are the causes...?
A: Superchargers.

09CobaltSS1

^^ thanks captain obvious.... lol

no one's got any info on iat2's in their lsj?

Edubs

1) Engine coolant system and H/E coolant system are seperate. Changing thermostat and engine coolant will NOT effect H/E system.

2) Idling for extended periods is guaranteed to raise IAT's beyond desired levels. Nothing can change this unless you went with a killer chiller setup.

3) Turning on your A/C will more than likely raise Engine and H/E coolant temperatures. It will not help lower IAT's. Commanding the cooling fan to come on more often can help with idle IAT's a little.

4) Checking oil for condensation or coolant contamination has nothing to do with H/E coolant system. Refer to point #1.

I would recommend installing the Option B and dual pass with aftermarket H/E. Those with serious S/C setups have had the most success dropping IAT's replacing the stock H/E with a Griffin unit.

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Im 140+ at about 120 mph