This^ not the cars fault, poor installtion = shitty feeling clutch

 

Yeah. Call that shop and give them hell, sounds like they don't have a clue what they're doing.

 

i called, but they're closed til tues. i had my brother in law push on the clutch and i looked at the hose coming through the firewall and it flexes quite a bit when the clutch is pressed.

 

frazier, may i ask. Did you used to drive the cobalt with your eyes closed?

 

If you have someone that can help, you can bleed the clutch yourself - pretty sure there's a how-to on this site. Given the symptoms you've described, I think a simple bleed should fix all your problems. If by chance it doesn't, it means they botched the install and either didn't align something right or didn't tighten something right.

 

Here https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...system-164547/

 

ok well i guess me and my brother in law will throw it up on the jack and take the wheels off and bleed all the lines and throw some new dot 3 in and see what happens? i need to do the brakes too i'm assuming since it's all on the same res. right? or can i do just the clutch

 

No you need to do the whole system IIRC. Look at that how-to I posted but read the whole thread, there are some corrections/clarifications later in the posts.

 

can u post the link up so i don't have to search it please?

 

Did you even read my post???

Installer Error. The clutch needs bled. Hell, I even offered to come help.

This.

This as well. All valid points.

She already posted it...........

 

ha if u want, but i can't afford your demands as i'm broke as **** right now haha

my bad. i see it now

 

ok my bro in law is on his way over with the tools and ramps to get the front end up. time to dedicate another saturday to the cursebalt and get it back on the road once again! I am determined...

 

ok we blead all the lines topped blead topped blead over and over. tightened it all back up and got the same results. slave?

 

It could be the Master Cylinder. They do go bad. There is a new one for sale right now on GM Sport Compact . Net.

The throw-out bearing should have been replaced when they replaced the transmission.

The only other thing it could be, is an improper installation of the clutch.

 

I'm gonna go with improper installation myself. Just given the fact that they couldn't get the GMPP to fit and all that jazz, they don't really sound like they know what they're doing.

 

keeps on gettin worst for ya...sorry bout ur luck man

 

well damn i guess it's pretty obvious i'm not irish huh

 

no pots of gold or rainbows or 4 leafed clovers or any of that **** huh

i gonna say u should get rid of that busted ass car

 

tbh the only problem i have had with the car the entire time is clutch. nothing else has had any problems whatsoever. other than the boost gauge doesn't work, but hell the entire apillar looks like hell. homeade tripod with a light on it that does nothing and 2 empty holes for the other 2 gauges. guess we're removin the master now.

 

Hana. That was my old pillar pod. The light was for the meth kit. I had an after market boost gauge. Probably why the oem one dont work. Also had a wideband and interceptor in the other 2 holes. Reason it looks home made is because the plx wideband wouldn't fit.

 

it still has the blue aftermarket cobalt gauge, but it doesn't work.... why is the apillar being heald on with a screw? also the interior rattles like you had a beaten ass system in it.

 

The A-Pillar is held on with a screw... because that's how aftermarket A-Pillars are held on.

If you want one that is nice, and looks like stock so that you can hide the screw, order the ZZP A-pillar. $80, I think. Might be $85. Looks identical to stock, only with 2 extra holes.

Your interior rattles like that because of the solid motor mount and possibly solid Transmission mounts. They'll make sure you aren't destroying other things though... like axles and transmissions from Wheel Hop.

And if the Boost Gauge is an Electronic one, which I'm guessing it is, you'll probably have to order the rest of the harness and parts... unless they are lying in the engine bay somewhere. Does it even light up? The wiring harness should shoot through the firewall... find it and follow it... you might find the MAP sensor that came with it. If there is no harness... you'll need to call Auto Meter... or just order a new one on eBay. If that's the route you go... search eBay for "ihavethebestpriceperformance"... they have the best pricing on Auto Meter that I have found. Just get a MECHANICAL Boost Gauge. It'll only be $50-$80, depending on which model you get.

The ones you see in my Sig (which look pimp, I think...) are the Auto Meter ES Series.

 

Yes, the blue Autometer Cobalt boost gauge was electronic. Car was wrapping the stock boost gauge since it saw over 20psi. Needed something that went higher.

From the pics of your engine bay, it looks like it's missing the sending unit that attaches to a vacuum line. Not sure why the PLX Wideband and the AeroForce interceptor gauges are missing, either.

The car vibrates like that because you have the BWoody solid motor and trans mounts, not because of some "system". ROFL, le sigh.... fkn children...

Whoever tried returning the car to stock, did a **** poor job of it.

This is what your missing for the boost gauge:

 

anything else you can think of about the car that i may not know? i'm just trying to learn the history of the car and try to figure out what is still there and what isn't still there.... when i got to the dealership there was a cheap ass shitty oil pressure gauge in there, wasn't connected to anything. i just took it out and threw it away because it was wrattling really bad and it was annoying as hell.

would the stock boost gauge work if i put one back in there?

 

The stock boost gauge should work as it is an electrical gauge. So long as the harness behind the pillar wasn't cut out or something. I have a stock pillar and boost gauge for sale if you need one.