So I did some searching around the threads and couldn't find the exact answer I was looking for because most of the threads are just about filing complaints.

So recently my rear brakes started grinding. Took the pads off, of course the outside pads look almost new and the inside ones are down to the metal and my rotors have nice gouges on the inner side.

So my question is this....is there a way to permanently fix this issue or am I going to have to replace the rotors and pads again in another 30K miles? Car is an 09 SS/TC that just hit 30K.

Thanks guys.

 

subd because mine are getting shitty and never really looked into it.

 

I had mine warrantied at 15,000 miles and threw away the stock rear pads and purchased R1 pads to put back on.


fixed....

and I get brake service every spring...they need to be lubed a lot.

 

So its mainly the pads that are the problem? I bought some Duralast Ceramic pads from autozone that come with a lifetime warranty. I also need to buy new rotors though and just don't want to have to buy new ones again in 30K miles.

 

jus had mine machined down under warranty when they told me they'd replace em (20k mi)
now they're squealing again, Ima check em out later an see how bad the damage is

 

They did not lube the pins. The outside pads really don't clamp down and the insides are doing all the work. They said my pins were seized up ad replaced it all for free.

 

hmmm how could I..Make them..seize up? lol..





....no really tho, Ima take my car in tomorrow(O I gotta drop my car off at the dealership an leave it with them for who knows how long to get 1 headlight replaced, a new shift boot put in, an have my sunroof bezel replaced.... ~45 minutes of actual work, but somehow its an all day process an its gonna use a bunch of my gas ) Im takin pics of everything this time....gauges,mileage,tires.. all that.. Appreciate the warranty work but, in no fucknwqrokjcnuweoqhacing way does that entitle you to beat on my car

 

hide a camera in there or something lol. a gopro behind the rear head rest or something lol

 

I definitely might have to do that

 

As others have said, it's the sliding pins that need proper lubrication for them to work right. The rear brakes are sliding calipers, meaning when you hit the brakes only one pad grips, and the other is then "pulled" on to the rotor. When the pins aren't greased up enough, you won't get equal force on both sides of the rotor.

I'd recommend new pads and rotors, and either grease it up yourself if you're a DIY'er, or make sure the brake shop does (which they should, sliding calipers are very common). I don't think anyone has had their brakes go out prematurely a 2nd time, which leads me to believe many calipers just weren't lubed up right from the factory.

 

I feel your pain...a couple months ago I was in only for a headlight, but my car came back to me down 1/8 of a tank from only 3 miles (despite my paperwork showing the same mileage in and out).

 

Why don't you just go to a non shitty dealer instead of going back to the crappy one over and over?

 

This one was legit, helped me out when another local dealership was given me the run around, and is replacin my clearly already opened and resealed headlights under warranty(lol) When they machined my brakes and put 10 extra miles on my car I didn't really mind until I looked at my gas gauge

 

There is an extreme corrosion factor on the Rear brakes. I resolved the Rear brakes by totally removing the calipers and removing the entire corrosive buildup around the brake pistons, if you look it's alot like a bad battery terminal or the yellowish green caked on crap of mechainical doom. Clean them off check the piston's actuation and then lube it up some, I'm not sure what I used because my Dad helped me out with most that side of the affair, I just did the cleaning and assembly/disassembly work.

Fixed that issue, but the e-brake is still an issue with the POS setup GM gave us. If you have the time too, check your e-brake and see if both acorns on the line are in contact too, you may be like many of us where it's not secured right. Under the rear cupholder area there is a "U-U" looking fixture the rear brake cable rests, one side does tend to slip out often because nothing holds the top of the "U" portion closed. To help prevent that you can adjust the e-brake with a deep socket until it clicks about 4-6 times when you pull it, any higher and it will disengage again, usual check ups on that part I would recommend also. Do it with chocks or anything to keep it from moving, and on a level flat surface.

Anyways bleed the brakes afterwords before complete reinstall or you will have extremely unpleasant experiences. Whole process with tire off already, and power tools assist on "dusting off" of the piston area with the little assembly completely tore down was about an hour, without power tools I'd say it'd take 3 hrs.

And yeah when you complete the process brake slowly, you may have been used to not having alot of rear brake response, I scared the **** out of an the people behind me with a full ceramic pad conversion "test stop" and was pretty shocked myself.

 

everyone says lube the pins real good and it will solve your problems

 

I've gotta wonder if some people try to intentionally break things

 

NO!
It's the PADS. They chunk up and break off debris that contaminate the pins and score the rotors. They release a very *GUMMY* crap with chunks of fine metal that destroy everything in their path. Problem solved with new NON STOCK pads (preferably ceramic) and NEW rotors. Don't even bother machining em...I got a rear set for $100...Centric Premium (coated). Those are the SAME rotors used for drilled/slotted R1 Concepts. I prefer PLAIN rotors.

 

Going back in for this exact problem for the 3rd time now (34500 miles) actually had a SVC Brake Sys message pop up this time and I have noticed that my rotors are now warped and the breather that connects between the intake and the head broke for the second time and Tire Svc Monitor problem. I refuse to fix any of it out of my pocket. Worst part is that I drive 10 miles a day and take a 600 mile trip once a month. It doesnt even get driven and its at the damn dealer all the time! lol

 

ronn said it right, and Ive been saying it for literally years now, its the stock pads. throw some quality aftermarket pads on there and be happy.