G5 Man

needed to start another thread due to my findings......the supposed oil leak that I though I had turns out to be gas and not oil, so I need some advice on this..... posted are some pics and I will explain where the gas is coming from......

in the first pic, where the black cap is located, there seems to be a bleeder relief under it similar to a tire valve, at the bootom of the stem is where the fuel leaks from...


in the next pic with the black cap removed, you can see a better view of the stem, and where the fuel leaks. I am assuming that is the actual fuel line which delivers fuel to the pump. I am going to attempt to use the Toyota RTV in this area when it completely dries. Is this round disc some type of filter or what does it do??? I may have to get this assembly and replace it....thanks for any imput..........

c1_c1rca

dont smoke near your car... that about all the advice i can give u

G5 Man

Lol..... I don't even smoke....lol

Dr.Balt407

rtv silicone will do the trick.






































J/K!

if you have warranty, take it to the dealer.

Malaclypse

iTrader: (1)

It actually is a schrader core similar to what's used in a tire valve stem. That round disc is a pulse dampener to smooth out pressure on the low side of the fuel system going in to the high pressure pump.

If the car is under warranty, take it in. They'll likely replace that hard line. It may even be covered by powertrain.

If there's no coverage, just replace the pipe. Its dead simple aside from needing a torque wrench and crow's foot to torque the 18mm fitting.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

That may be true...but I bet you still have the oil leak problem. In any event, I just don't understand why you don't >>>TAKE IT IN UNDER WARRANTY!

insylem

That's the schrader valve for a fuel pressure test hookup. If it's leaking, you might be able to tighten the valve core similar to the way you would on a leaky tire. If your still having problems you can buy this "http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEI-102071/" and use the metal cap, it has a rubber gasket in it, and should help seal better then the stupid plastic one does.

G5 Man

ronn, you have been great in both threads that I have posted, and I want to thank you for the part #'s you listed in the other thread......thank you again
I did follow up on the warranty yesterday, and they said if it isn't related to powertrain, then it is not covered. And their labor rate is $105 per hour. Since I am out of regular warranty and I have the airbox off and don't want to drive until the gas leak is corrected, this is why I won't take it in for warranty. I think it won't be covered anyway, I may be wrong, but I will attempt to stop the leak today...thanks again.....
PS also checked the cam cover, and it is dry as anything, no oil in that area, what I thought was oil in the beginning turned out to be fuel.....

Also thanking everyone who has responded...it is appreciated......

reddevil

iTrader: (1)

silicone is bad idea gasoline eats it...

replace the valve.

G5 Man

I'll have to call again tomorrow, to see if it is covered under powertrain for the leak, otherwise will just order the part and do myself.

the valve core tighten just a hair, but I wanted to try to tighten the stem from the outside by using the tool that fits on the threads, turns out that the tool does not fit the valve as it is slightly larger than tire valves. What I did do was use a very thin pair of vice grips and ever so slightly just tried to tighten at the bottom of the stem before using the FIPG.

I can understand you there, but if it gets me through a day or two, then it's all I need. used the Toyota FIPG and it setup pretty good as of now, will start the SS later today after about 8 hours and see if it does the deed for now. That line has to be replace or the valve has to be tighten from the outside. The main thing is that I found where the leak was coming from and that itself was a big plus....


PS....the leaking was coming out from under the bottom of the stem and running underneath the fuel line to the pulse dampener, and coating the underneath of said part. That expalins why the bracket of the pulse damper was wet and why I was getting wetness not only there, but on the exhaust manifold right under the MAP sensor. And heavy ordor also, very lucky it was leaking there as it seems the exhaust manifold was evaporating the fuel rather than let it from a puddle elsewhere where a bigger problem could have happen.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

OK, I'm not going to keep saying the same thing....do as you wish.
but that fix AND this problem (gas leak) ARE COVERED by the basic warranty! I think I posted the info that shows this, but if you like, I can PM it to you. They are JACKING YOU AROUND on this one...call GM customer relations at tell them what's up. This is BULL CHIT!
BTW, the pics you posted earlier sure look like cam cover AND/OR fuel gasket leak. The oil from the cam cover migrates down and away from the lower cover and it's hard to see where it's comming from. If you have ANY OIL in that area, it's this problem and fix.

Here MY pic of the problem:

G5 Man

you are so right, that was a waste of time, started leaking as soon as I started the engine. out to gert some "tank cement" and see if that stops it...

[QUOTE=ronn;5698019]OK, I'm not going to keep saying the same thing....do as you wish.
but that fix AND this problem (gas leak) ARE COVERED by the basic warranty! I think I posted the info that shows this, but if you like, I can PM it to you. They are JACKING YOU AROUND on this one...call GM customer relations at tell them what's up. This is BULL CHIT!
BTW, the pics you posted earlier sure look like cam cover AND/OR fuel gasket leak. The oil from the cam cover migrates down and away from the lower cover and it's hard to see where it's comming from. If you have ANY OIL in that area, it's this problem and fix.

it's not do as I wish, it's what I have to do, I have been out of basic warranty for quite awhile, so if powertrain does not cover it, it's on me. my cam cover is dry, nothing leaking there.

ronn

iTrader: (3)

Just tryin' to help ya here.
Well..looks like FUEL system isn't covered beyond 36K..so you're right on the fuel parts.

Details:
General Motors will warrant powertrains on 2008 and newer: Chevrolet, Buick, Pontiac, GMC and Saturn passenger cars, light duty trucks or vans for fully backed, 5 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first**. This warranty will have no deductible, starting from the original in-service date of the vehicle, for warrantable repairs which are required as a result of defects due to material and/or workmanship to the Powertrain components as listed below:

Engine
Cylinder head, block, timing gears, timing chain, timing cover, oil pump/oil pump housing, OHC carriers, valve covers, oil pan, seals, gaskets, turbocharger, supercharger and all internal lubricated parts as well as manifolds, flywheel, water pump, harmonic balancer and engine mount. Timing belts are covered until the first scheduled maintenance interval

Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, coolant and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded are the entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, pressure lines, fuel rail(s), regulator, injectors and return line) as well as the Engine/Powertrain Control Module and/or module programming.



OK..the 3yr/36000 bumper to bumper to bumper covers those items NOT COVERED (EXCLUSIONS) in the basic above...unless it's abuse of course.

Bumper to Bumper 3 yr/36K:

What does the bumper-to-bumper warranty cover?
The Bumper-to-Bumper Limited Warranty covers most GM vehicles registered in the U.S. and Canada from the date the vehicle is first delivered until it reaches 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever occurs first, see dealer for details) on Chevrolet and GMC vehicles; and 4 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first, see dealer for details) on Buick and Cadillac vehicles. It covers the vehicle from bumper to bumper on any vehicle defect related to materials or workmanship. Original tires are covered but prorated after 12,000 miles during the terms of the Bumper to Bumper Limited Warranty

G5 Man

I know you are and it is appreciated......
went out and bought the Liquid metal and put that on, has to set up for 3 to 4 hrs, so we shall see, supposed to be gasoline resistant....let's hope....

G5 Man

I am here to tell you that Liquid Metal does work!!!! just started up the SS and the fuel dripping has been eliminated, only a very slight and I mean a very slight wetness underneath the tubing. shut down the engine, made sure the tube was dry and put another coat of the Liquid Metal on, more so underneath the tube, and then redid everything. not pretty, but by tomorrow morning it will be cured for sure and ready to go. still going to order the new fuel line and will keep the old if I can get the metal off and cleaned, then try that silver solder and keep for a spare. keeps me from having the SS down until the new part comes in. I am a happy guy......again want to thank everyone for their imput on the problem, as always it is appreciated.....
will update tomoorow after I get to work, as that will be the real test....so far....so good.

G5 Man

Slight seepage this morn still nothing like what it was. Putting on another coat of LM tonight new part ordered, two or three days to come in...

G5 Man

Also a member over at the HHR forum, my name there is "SSROADSTER"
I posted a "How To Guide" for anyone interested on replacing the fuel line, in the link below.
Fuel Line w/dampener replacement...no more gas leak... - Chevy HHR Network

Replaced the line, no more leak......
Took the SS for a test ride and all is well, for those who have been following, I have reinstalled the tune, and the popping and banging that I was having during part throttle is eliminated. Thinking that it was the BSR tune, when in reality it probably was the leaking fuel line causing that condition. I still may have the loss of boost condition at times, but right now it is to wet to test. There still is the possibility that the wastegate actuator is defective, as I recorded another P0234 Overboost code the other night still with the line leaking. Also it did start to leak more so even with the Liquid Metal temp fix, so the SS sat and my wife made the sacrifice of letting me use her vehicle til the part came in, what a lady she is....
But the testing after the line replacemnet today was very encouraging, quick response, no popping or banging as I stated, and no surging at all. Will test further tomorrow. All-in-all a very procductive morning....: