Wired

iTrader: (3)

Is that what I am supposed to do? I guess since its a new file I can't write calibration huh...

Here is my file I read from my car:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/qf..._9_15_2013.hpt

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

quick thought, but first... I KNEW IT!!!! HAhahaha sorry. I called something on the tune as soon as you did all that the work to fix the boost leak. I was like theres no way that there is some new unknown boost leak spot on this car. I bet the guy who owned it was unhappy with GMS1 and Hptuned over it. Im surprised the dealerships didnt pick up on the after market configuration.

Okay heres my quick thought. Your car strangely does not throw codes for wacky fuel trims. Did you check to see if the guy had alot of CELs disabled? Might be why you can see 24 LTFT and no code. Maybe the original owner got fed up with CELs coming on and disabled them

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Good idea! I'm still learning how to use HP tuners so ill read up on that and let you know.


Before I flash I would like someone else to look it over to tell me what exactly is up with the tune.

And whether I need to write entire or just write config.

We will see if Bruce (found that out when changing my name on the Bluetooth) disabled any codes for his botched tune.

EDIT:
The DTC section has some codes set to MIL off (remove after x cycles) but I am not sure what is factory configuration. None of them were flat out disabled. The DTCs for system too lean and too rich (both on and off idle) have the fault class set to "11-Fuel Supply System"

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

This tune might also be the reason that the turbo needed to be replaced :/

There are a couple of tuners out there that can remote tune you which means they can adjust the configuration after you send them a baseline log file. Terminator2 is in florida and I think he can help you out. After he does some tweaking, he sends the file back and you upload it and do the preliminary log on the new tune. Then send the file back and he does some more adjustments. This process can take a week at the most depending on both parties schedules.

The other thing you can do if you want the GMS1 tune loaded correctly on the car is go to the dealership and have them reflash the car. I believe Terminator2 or any reputable tuners out there will also have the GMS1 file. Actually you already have it dont you? Dont listen to anything I just said then, Terminator2 or any other tuner can walk you through it lol.

I dont have HPtuners because I dont trust myself so I cant help you.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

For the stock CEL settings go to hptuners log in and check out the tune files ppl have loaded up, there's a few 09 stock LNFs, there might even be a gmstg1

Grave

iTrader: (7)

If you want to leave your car stock, I would write entire the GMS1 file, put the stock intake on, and see what everything looks like.

I'm not sure if the file in your car started as stock or GMS1, since the data can be copied from one to the other. There are a lot of tables that can't be accessed with HPT though, so the only way to change that data is with a write entire.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Ok thanks for the tips. I will write entire then. I still have the stock intake (everything but charge pipe is stock) so everything should be fine. Then maybe I can put my K&N SRI on finally! I have also been reading the HPT forums on how to tune for intakes so I might do that too.

Looking at the GMS1 DTCs there are two copies of each of the rich or lean fault codes. One has the 11-Fuel System and the other just has the digit "30".

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Charge you battery before you do a write entire and shut your headlights off

Wired

iTrader: (3)

I was reading through the help and it says that I should only use a write entire if I am switching the OS of the VCM, not a normal tune. Is this still the case?

So I tried a write with the GMS1 file I got from Dirtybalt09 (who I also got the HPtuners from) and it wouldn't even let me license the file (I have already licensed my car). It gives me a calibration error message. Is this because my interface has already licensed this file to his old car?

Nevermind, read on the HP forums that I have to open the GMS1 as a compare file and then copy differences on all the parameters and then save it as a new file.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

Any updates? Did reflashing the GMS1 back fix the problem?

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Going to do the flash in a little bit. Ran out of time last night trying to figure out why it wouldn't work.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Just did the tune. Copied all the changes over to my tune and saved as a new file since I was having issues using the one I got from the member here.

I flashed it with write config and it took two minutes.

Fired her up, idled so much more smoothly. Took the car for a quick test drive (not logging at this point, should have though) and it was still really smooth. On the way back home I did a 2nd gear WOT and it gave me some jerkiness. I then tried a 3rd gear WOT and it gave a hard jerk like I had dumped the clutch and killed it my first time trying a manual. I immediately stopped giving it power and drove it back home.

Then got my log file going and took it out again. Drove nicely for about a mile at all different rpms before I tried another WOT pull. I did it in 2nd gear and it was completely fine, as well as the other gears. I was boosting to almost 21 psi! Almost felt slower than the previous tune, although I think it was just because it was easing in the power more slowly then the previous tune did.

And it went between 0 and .8 LTFT the entire time (only a couple miles driven).

I'd say the problem has been solved! I will continue to drive the car in this state and log it some more (gotta figure out the PID on terms config file for boost) before I add the K&N intake.

Here is the log file for anyone who'd like to take a look at it. The most knock I had was 1.5* at one point that I purposely put it at 4000rpm in second gear for an extended time and then .5* at another time.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/tf...redGMS1log.hpl

Grave

iTrader: (7)

The tune that was on your car was commanding 16 degrees of advance, if I remember correctly. GMS1 is 11. There were a number of other differences as well.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

pretty cool you got it fixed. Ohhhh the if onlys lol. If only this was the first thing you looked at but thats not something that should have to be looked at for the tune. LTFTs off scream boost leak or one of the many other things you tried looking at and I guess "terrible" tuner.

Heres what I think happened. The previous owner got a GMS1 and he wasnt getting 21 psi and CELs kept popping up. He's thinking GM tune is crap! so he wanted a Hptune that everyone keeps hyping about on the cobaltss.net forum. Little did he know, he had a few leaks in his system causing the drop in psi.

He got his dad to go buy him HPtuners and he just started adding numbers into the dial table, by golly he made the car faster! slightly... But now he keeps getting CELs all the time. Oh crap, he screwed it up and doesnt know how to fix it. Well, I guess its time to trade the car in for a honda civic.

Dealership starts the car, it runs. Presses on the brakes, they stop the car. Dealer gives the kid 12,000 for it and in turn you pick it up with some hidden problems. :/

Now all the problems are solved, new turbo, alot of time invested but hopefully not alot of money and now you have a real GMS1 car with the original problem fixed, the boost leaks, that the kid couldnt find.

I believe you have all new sensors too now right? Now that you have HPtuners, heres what you need to do. Leave that ECU alone with the GMS1 on it. Buy a spare ECU from ZZP or used from somebody on here. Plug it in to your car and unlock it to your car. Use this new ECU to practice tuning with HPTuners. Become adept at it and start tuning people in your area

Spare ECU is like $200. You would have to reflash it to GMS1 too though so that it works on your car.


I have two ECUs, one with the factory tune and one with my HPtune. Summers and Springs I leave the tuned ECU in. Winter and fall I switch back to the factory ECU. helps to not have all that torque when driving in the snow.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

My worry is that if something does go bad engine wise they will discover its been hp tuned at one point.

Also I have spent about the following on this:
Charge pipe 200
MAF 60
02 sensor 80
Maps 35
Turbo 0
Purge solenoid 25
Boost tester 5
Torque app 5?
Hp tuners 350

Total 710 dollars. I hope others can learn from this thread that checking a tune should be priority if it is unknown. I hate replacing lots of parts but didn't know what else to do and this shows why it is foolish.

If she keeps running good then I will try the intake install again.

Lastly I cannot thank everyone enough here that took the time to offer suggestions, do research, offer to come help me, read logs and tunes, etc. It shows a lot about the cobalt community that they can stick with a user and his stupid problem for 10 pages.

Thanks again.
Kyle

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

$710 is still not too bad for getting a new turbo on the car too. I know it was warranty but if you hadnt been so thorough in your investigation you might have never checked the turbo and immediately fixed the tune only to find out down the road that the turbo fails and does alot of damage.

Also they will see the engine has been reflashed, they will acknowledge that it is GMS1 tuned. If the parameters of the GMS1 are met then I dont see them having any issues with the number of times the ECU was flashed. The type of things they will look for are boost tapering, I believe first gear has a lower peak boost then gears 2 - 5. They will look at peak boost held and spiked. They will look at the amount of times its been flashed vs their data base. I think you can even use this entire thread as evidence for your intent to own a GMS1 car if something bad ever did occur. The only problem there is you made reference to the K&N intake and they dont like intakes, they think intakes make cars blow up and automatically void warranties which is not the case...ever...

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

It wasn't a stupid problem by any means. It was stupid that someone tuned a broken engine, haven't had a chance to actually look at the tune it had been busy. But it would be interesting to see what tables he adjusted. Good news though you have a operating car with a good new turbo

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

I bet that "30" means +/- 30 LTFT. See if any of those fault code trips were changed after you reflashed the GMS1 tune.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Can they deny warranty if it was running an aftermarket tune even if the owner didn't know?

I applaud the OP's intent to be GMS1, but the correct way to keep warranty would be for a dealer to reflash GMS1 and show owner he still has warranty in their system.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

But if I go to the dealer aren't i opening myself up for a flagged/voided warranty?

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah man idk. Guess it just depends on your dealership.

Honestly just leave it alone. You are running a conservative tune now. Nbd.

Wired

iTrader: (3)

Thats the plan other than trying to run the K&N intake again in the near future. It just sounds so sexy I can't resist.

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

It sounds incredible. I run it now. My gf hates it. Makes it worth twice as much

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I wouldnt go to the dealer. I mean that would have been the honest correct way to do it so that they understand what the problem was. But if they know you flashed the car to GMS1 then they know you have tuning software, they will void the warranty. But as it is now, you brought the car to the dealership to have the turbo replaced and it was replaced under warranty. Getting a new turbo is costly through the dealer and they would have checked to see if the car was tuned. This is why I was surprised they didnt see any modifications of the parameters. I dont think they can actually see dial tables and what not. I think they just have to use intuition and look at their records. Therefore you should be fine for forever.

If you wanted, you could call the dude who worked with you to put the turbo in and tell them what you found. I think he would be interested that you solved the case of the wacky fuel trims.

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion he bought the car that way and the dealership didnt even know so I dont they have any right to void the warranty. The car came that way and it was bought with a warranty so he should be okay.