K&N Typhoon got a CEL
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From: New Jersey
K&N Typhoon got a CEL
Just installed the new K&N typhoon on my SS. When I turned the car on I immdediately got a CEL, and figured it was memory code one. Drove it around, everything seemed fine. Drove it to work today and the CEL was still on. When I left work I noticed it had gone out, but on my way home it came back on. Craaaaaaaaaap! I don't wanna go buy an obd2 reader so I can know what code it is, aren't they like $100? I checked the connections and everything seems fine. Ugh.. I shouldn't have been a guinea pig for this.
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From: New York
Originally Posted by Maverick
Just installed the new K&N typhoon on my SS. When I turned the car on I immdediately got a CEL, and figured it was memory code one. Drove it around, everything seemed fine. Drove it to work today and the CEL was still on. When I left work I noticed it had gone out, but on my way home it came back on. Craaaaaaaaaap! I don't wanna go buy an obd2 reader so I can know what code it is, aren't they like $100? I checked the connections and everything seems fine. Ugh.. I shouldn't have been a guinea pig for this.
If you do, press your Onstar button and ask for a remote diagnostic.
The Stig
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From: New York
Originally Posted by Maverick
No I don't have Onstar. If you are serious hah
lol yes I am serious, they can check for CEL's and tell you what it's related to. They won't tell you the exact code though. If you have a fuel trim lean code they will say there is a problem with the fuel module.
I just ordered Auto Tap today with the GM kit because I get codes regularly for no reason. It was about $275 which was a pretty good price considering what it's capable of.
Here is some information from another thread in the event of a P0171 Code (fuel trim lean)
DTC P0171
Conditions for setting this fault:
1. The long term FT weighted average value is more than a calibrated value.
2. The above condition is present for more than 2 minutes.
Conditions for DTC/CEL reset (note MIL=CEL):
1. The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
2. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
3. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
4. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Notice the light should go off after 3 ignition cycles if the problem is fixed, the fault will come off the history after 40 ignition cycles.
Stuff you can check at home without a scan tool that could cause this condition:
1. Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components
2. Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, and injector O-rings
3. The air induction system and air intake ducts for leaks
4. The crankcase ventilation system for leaks
5. The evaporative canister purge pipes for obstructions or plugging
Conditions for setting this fault:
1. The long term FT weighted average value is more than a calibrated value.
2. The above condition is present for more than 2 minutes.
Conditions for DTC/CEL reset (note MIL=CEL):
1. The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
2. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
3. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
4. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Notice the light should go off after 3 ignition cycles if the problem is fixed, the fault will come off the history after 40 ignition cycles.
Stuff you can check at home without a scan tool that could cause this condition:
1. Missing, loose, or leaking exhaust components
2. Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, throttle body, and injector O-rings
3. The air induction system and air intake ducts for leaks
4. The crankcase ventilation system for leaks
5. The evaporative canister purge pipes for obstructions or plugging
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From: New Jersey
ugh... well I guess I'm gonna wait this out a bit and see if it goes out in a few days. If it doesn't I'll go to walmart and pick up a reader. If I get a reader, is there anything specific I should be looking for, or can I buy any one?
I really hope I don't have to get one though
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?
I really hope I don't have to get one though
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?
The Stig
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From: New York
Originally Posted by Maverick
ugh... well I guess I'm gonna wait this out a bit and see if it goes out in a few days. If it doesn't I'll go to walmart and pick up a reader. If I get a reader, is there anything specific I should be looking for, or can I buy any one?
I really hope I don't have to get one though
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?
I really hope I don't have to get one though
Even if I do get one and I see the code, and it is a lean code, there really isn't anything I can do about it? Even if I clear it wont' it just come back on anyway?
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From: GTA, Ontario
In my opionion, anybody who plans to modify AND install those mods themselves should invest in a reader since any future installs may cause more CEL's. Think of the $$ you're saving in labour costs for intsalling the mods yourselves. Use that saved $$ and invest into a good reader like MarcS recommends in his post. 
The Stig
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From: New York
Originally Posted by 2006ArrivalBlueSS
In my opionion, anybody who plans to modify AND install those mods themselves should invest in a reader since any future installs may cause more CEL's. Think of the $$ you're saving in labour costs for intsalling the mods yourselves. Use that saved $$ and invest into a good reader like MarcS recommends in his post.
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From: USA
i have seen on pretty much every car you put an intake on, its going to throw a code...does that mean anything, no. maybe in some cases. I had an Injen intake on my previous car, threw a code about 2 weeks later (running rich, recognizing more air in the engine). I have told my self i wont but an intake on this car, but maximumboost.net has gauranteed NO CEL, well just see, and it doesnt throw a code, he will have my money 
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by sneaky
i've been driving since last friday and no code on my K&N. Nothing
Instead of getting a scan tool at walmart, go to Autozone or Advance autoparts, they will usually read your code for free.
It's a company policy, so no matter what Autozone you go to, they should be able to do it free of charge, no problem. Not sure about Advance Auto, I went there once to get a CEL pulled, and they said that they don't do them at all.
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From: Indiana
I just dont wanna have to see that CEL on 24/7 for the rest of the remainder of my days with the SS. If something actually went wrong and its up already, id never notice it. Plus the CEL just plain sux.
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by Ern
I just dont wanna have to see that CEL on 24/7 for the rest of the remainder of my days with the SS. If something actually went wrong and its up already, id never notice it. Plus the CEL just plain sux.
sneaky should I try cleaning the MAF? If so do I use alcohol and a cotton swab? (That is what I read I think). And can I get to the thing by taking off the drivers side head light? I really don't wanna have to pull the wheel off again, and the friggin splash guard.
anyone?
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From: Houston
I had to change out the screws from the stock ones to the ones provided w/ the kit when bolting the MAF sensor to the pipe....after that my CEL turned off within 10 minutes and has been off since.
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From: Houston
Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by Tofu
Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?
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From: RTP, NC
Originally Posted by Tofu
Nah, there isn't enough room to maneuver (at least for me) w/ the headlight out to get to the filter or maf. Stupid question, but did you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery? Also, I had to get a new MAF when I had just a K&N filter because oil residue had contaminated the sensor...maybe just some dust or foreign objects causing a faulty MAF sensor?
I just checked mine after a P0171 code
I tightened the intake/throttle body hose clamps and checked the breather vent. Everything looked ok.
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From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by zinner
Remove the headlight and the black headlight bracket (4 more bolts) and you can easily access the filter and MAF.
I just checked mine after a P0171 code
I tightened the intake/throttle body hose clamps and checked the breather vent. Everything looked ok.
I just checked mine after a P0171 code
I tightened the intake/throttle body hose clamps and checked the breather vent. Everything looked ok.
