OK all mods are in garage. For some reason I can't go over 15 PSI or 3500 rpm w/o my car misfiring. I've changed my plugs and did a compression test (1-2 sec) 150,150,155,150. I have INTENSE S4 Tune, Prostreet Performance, and TAG tunes...it happens to all of them. I've disconnected my meth and went catless. It started happening about a month after I rebuilt my car (about january/february). The second from left cylinder has oil on the spark plug. I thought it might be the vavle seals but I didn't mess with them. Then I thought it was my rings....but the compression test showed me otherwise. The onthing I think I might have F'ed up was I put Mobile 1 Synthetic durring break-in peroid. After 1K miles I changed to 5w30. I'm burning oil too. I'm lost. I'm debating on buying valve seals and installing them.

I recently threw these Codes:

Fixed - P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Sensor 2 ECM, PCM
Fixed - P0069 Manifold Absolute Pressure - Barometric Pressure Correlation PCM
Fixed - P0140 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Sensor 2 ECM, PCM
Fixed - P0141 HO2S Heater Performance Sensor 2 ECM, PCM
Fixed - P0182 (P1182) Supercharger Inlet Pressure Sensor Performance ECM
Fixed - P0183 (P1183) ??Unknown??
P0300 Engine Misfire Detected ECM, PCM
P1112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage- ECM
P1113 ??Unknown??

 

any help would be great....

 

Just because a compression test came out good doesnt mean it couldnt be the piston rngs.

If there is enough oil in the cylinder, the piston rings will seal because they are wet

 

once in a while I can go WOT all the way to 7000... only in third though. I wonder if I forgot to align my rings on that piston???

 

I have that problem on my honda, the rings are SHOT, it burns 1 quart of oil for every 2 gallons of gas, yet it gets 180psi on all four cylinders.

A leakdown test will let you know for sure.

Are you burning any oil? (Blueish exhaust)

 

The motor was designed to run Mobile 1 synthetic or equivalent. That shouldn't be an issue.

My guess would be rings aswell. I'm not a pro though.

 

You re not supposed to align the rings you are supposed to stagger them. Some of the codes are because you went catless.I would make sure you put all the grounds back on.
The oil in the cylinder is a bit weird thow.Do A wet compression test.use a couple squirts of oil in the cylinders.They should go up slightly.If that cylinder doesn't and the other ones do then there might be a problem with that cylinder.
Keep us updated.
Ciao,C

 

Rings or valve seals... sounds to me more like valve seals.

 

well the oil on the plug is a problem but i dont think its the main problem..sounds more to me like a ignition problem or pcm.you must have had it reprogramed or somethin to run it to 7000 rpms.also could be gas on the plug not oil! maybe you are dumping fuel into the cykinders check the fuel pressure regulator.ya never know.let us know

 

FIRST my three questions.....

1. What is a wet compression test?
2. What is a leakdown test?
3. Could my MAF sensor have gone bad?


Yes I've been burning oil.

I know...that is what I ment.



refer to original post.

 

With a leak down test you have a special gauge and compressed air,zero the gauge with air pressure connected then you put the cylinder on top dead center compression and pump air into the cylinder through the gauge.It measures % leakage of each cylinder.Listen to where the air is leaking out intake exhaust or crankcase(usauly listen through the oil fill hole). You could probable rent one at a parts store.
Wet compression test: You squirt 3 or 4 pumps of oil into the cylinders turn the engine over a bit then do a compression test.

when you put the engine together was it possible something happend to the oil rings on #3 if there is a problem with just the oil rings then it won't show up with compression test or leak down.It might have snagged and bent one of the oil scrapers.
Did you rebuild the bottom end" I don't think it is valve seals.If nothing was touched in the head and now just after it was put back togeher it has the problem.

hope you get it sorted out.
Ciao,C

 

No I left it as is.

 

What part did you rebuild?

 

Toasted wire harness or baro/scip plugs switched maybe? I think the p0182 and p0183 are actually p1182 and p1183, which would be the sensor on the top of the supercharger. Have you ever unplugged the wire harness from BARO sensor before (its underneath the throttle body kinda mounted on the coolant line that runs across the front of the engine)?

Just to be sure, make certain the wire harness plugged into the sensor on top of the supercharger (SCIP sensor) has the three wires colored: orange/black, light green, and gray. This scenario is a lot like one over at the redline forums and the cause was swapped sensor harnesses. http://www.redline forums.com/forums...olds-onto.html (remove the space in the url)

The smoke may not be oil, but excess fuel.

 

here is a good idea get rid of the peice of **** cobalt and buy a nice new car.

 

Look in my garage and you'll see wat I've done so far.

pistons (10:1), HG, HS

 

Okay... wait a minute... you are running conventional motor oil in the SS/SC instead of the synthetic?

The friggin oil cap says "Mobil 1 Synthetic" on it for a reason. I'd wager using regular oil is giving you some of these issues.

 

FIRST OF ALL :



Maybe your cap is different than mine. IDK. Synthetic will find every gap, crack and hole. I wanted to break-in the rings (ensuring they get a proper seat). But all I have was synthetic....so I figureed that was the reason why I was burning so much oil. I ended up changing to 5W30 to finish breaking in the piston rings. about another 100 miles and I'll switch back to Synthetic.

 

I threw a P0300 code. Did the onstar diag. Said is was an "Engine Misfire"

Little background on how I came to acquire this. More so my fault I think then anything else. But if you guys have any input it would be appreciated.

Put in 4 gallons of 93 gas and bought two cans of octaine booster (one for now, and one for later on next refuel) until I could get back to my house and get the rest of my cash to finish filling it up.

Wasn't paying attention and put both cans of octaine boost in on the 4 gallons of gas cos some yahew was talking to me about my supercharger when I was putting my gas in. Didn't think it would be a big deal so I figured... what the hell, no big deal. So I noticed about 20 minutes later my check engine lite came on. And has stayed on, even after disconnecting the battery terminal.

I figure my ECU is being the bitch that it likes to be because of the wacked out fuel. Or maybe I toasted a sparkplug or got a short in the sparkplug wire harness from getting really hot or something.

I'm not smoking or anything so I know its not a ring... and the valve seals are good as far as I know.... somewhere around 16k miles now, should be fine.

Anyway Onstar said it was a P0300 Code / Engine Misfire

The car seems to be running just fine? So I have no idea.

Current mods are as follows. B&M Shifter, Injen CAI, Magnaflow 2.5 Catback, 35% Tint, Progress Technology Springs, Smoked Front / Rear Plate Covers. Least thats all I know think of for now.

Having GM Stage II Installed on Tuesday (04/03/07). Instead of the 3in pulley that comes with the kit, I am having the guys at the GM garage put in the 2.85 ZZP pulley and 1 Step colder NGK Plugs. With Stage II Retune that comes with that package. I am not spending the money on the dyno until I do my header and downpipe which will probably be the last mods I do to this car period. (until they drop the new camaro when I trade in, or can afford the downpayment difference on a Vette)

I figure what has happened is the octaine boost, or the INJEN CAI throwing a code again cos my tune is still stock and probably out of whack.

Any ideas?

 

Just so you know you shouldn't break in an engine on synthetic.M88ArRamadi is correct in putting regular oil in the engine. The synthetic oil is too slippery to allow the rings to seat.

M88ArRamadi did you use new rings and did you deglaze the cylinders. Or just reuse the old ones? The only thing I can think of is trie what witt said with the wiring.or a ground not connected.

here is a pic of my scip sensor wiring.

 

Colors are right


I used the new rings. I cleaned the cylinder walls but not sure what "deglazing" entitles.

Something I should have said on my first post(didn't remember until now):

When I installed my intense Stage 4 and re-installed my SC...the SCIP sensor wires got pinched in the boost bypass hole. They seemed fine until I had a good look at them. one wire was connected by 1 strand! I ended up fixing the wires. Soooo I think that that'll too care of the SCIP codes.

Thanks to SPAZ and WITT for the help on that one.

 

IIRC you blew the last engine right? If that is true, you're cylinder sleeves either needed to be honed or replaced. This gives the new rings a surface to deal against. If you didn't, the new rings will not seal peoperly. Same actually goes if you didn't blow the engine as well. What color is the exhaust smoke? Is it black or is it blue/gray? Blue/gray is oil buning, black is running rich.

 

Yea blew my HG @22 psi in November. I only had 7k on the motor. Stock Pistons and rings were fine. there was no "lip" on the sleves. You could still see the cross marks. After the motor was cleaned...it looked like it was brand new.

Exhauset smoke:

sometimes Blue / Dark Grey ...............Sometimes no smoke at all.

 

Still haven't solved the misfiring problem.....help please

Also if it was my rings...wouldn't my dip-stick pop out?

 

If its the rings the dipstick probably would pop out. Also there would be an oil buildup in the induction (intake) piping from the PCV. Didn't you say it passed a compression test? Is it still giving the MAP-BARO correlation error? If it is, you need to get that straightened out. Log both BARO and MAP sensors to see whats happening.