Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt
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Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt
Replaced Passenger side CV Axle rotates when its off the ground an when the car is in neutral an stops when you put pressure against rotation. Heres my problems 1. Driver Side wheel isn't getting power to it wont go forward. 2 transmission wont go into reverse feels like its blocked. Has a B&M shorty in it going to get it up on the hoist again an take a good look at it to see what its doing. Is there anything I should be looking for that would explain it an yes it does go into 1st an 2nd thanks for any advice
Email me at Million.678@hotmail.com so I can get replys faster since I'm going to be out working on the car an not on the computer
Email me at Million.678@hotmail.com so I can get replys faster since I'm going to be out working on the car an not on the computer
Last edited by WillisW; 02-17-2017 at 12:43 PM.
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Goes into reverse now an driver side wheel gets power now reason why it wouldn't go into reverse was because a linkage slipped so I replaced it an for the driver side wheel the cv was done so that's replaced as well thanks for the no help once again
Last edited by WillisW; 02-24-2017 at 12:07 PM.
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If you are looking for a very quick response you may want to try on the Facebook pages.
Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
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If you are looking for a very quick response you may want to try on the Facebook pages.
Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
Fair warning if you do post on the Facebook pages that you will get answers from incompetent people who have zero mechanical knowledge of Cobalt's or cars in general. But there will be some individuals who will provide you with the correct advice and knowledge.
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Slowly but surely it will be back on the road in time for summer Thinking about ditching the rocker panels an lowering 2inchs getting black rims an getting it painted so the bumpers tie in a lot better an getting spyder tail lights an head lights
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If I'm not mistaken (anyone correct me if I'm wrong) each wheel has its own wheel speed sensor, and if the computer detects that one wheel is moving at a different rate than the others it can trip ABS.
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ON a different note my tweeters aren't working in my car it came with the pioneer sound system in it what wires are they from the amplifier same with the sub woofer cause the meat head who owned the car before me cut the wires for the sub woofer an now I got to reconnet them but I lost my wiring diagram that told me everything it was for the 05 so shouldn't be much changed between the two one is 07 the other is 05
Last edited by WillisW; 02-22-2017 at 11:47 AM.
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I don't think going around a corner will trip it, no ones abs would work then. But if a sensor isn't working correctly its going to see a wheel that never moves, and that would be an issue.
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That's where I would start.
But before you go replacing it (its part of the hub/bearing) I would go over the harness and make sure that everything is tight and intact.
But before you go replacing it (its part of the hub/bearing) I would go over the harness and make sure that everything is tight and intact.
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WillisW (02-23-2017)
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When your boost gauge works, is super glitchy or does it get stuck in spots?
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.
I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.
Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.
I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.
Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
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WillisW (02-23-2017)
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When your boost gauge works, is super glitchy or does it get stuck in spots?
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.
I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.
Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
Mine does that. Sometimes mine sticks even lower than where yours is, so low that I often think it finally died and gravity just took over with the needle control. But then one day I'll get into the boost and then find it stuck at 80 or 90 kpa untill I tap on the face and it falls back down.
I'll be installing my new boost gauge this weekend. Just bought an AutoMeter Z series (2614) Mechanical Boost gauge. No more digital stepper motors for me! New one is in PSI too, no more of this Kpa nonsense.
Oh, and yes, you definitely need end links! I recommend the Moog "Problem Solvers". I have a set of those to go on my car too. Just haven't found the time to do it.
Last edited by WillisW; 02-23-2017 at 12:37 PM.