Middle of a Rebuilding a Crashed Balt
When your not making boost, your making vacuum, that's perfectly normal. It will only make boost when you stomp on the throttle.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
106,000km, mine will hit 338,000km this weekend (210,000 miles)
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
When your not making boost, your making vacuum, that's perfectly normal. It will only make boost when you stomp on the throttle.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and t into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
FYI, that boost gauge I got, you have to run a hose (supplied in the kit) through the firewall and t into the vacuum line coming out of the manifold after the sc. The only reason I haven't put my boost gauge in yet is because I need to get under the car to get access to the grommet between the clutch and brake pedal. That's the only grommet I can find that is reasonably accessible from the interior side. Also, Autometer makes a bunch of different mechanical gauges so have a look at what one best suits you. I went with the z-series because you can change the color of the light (I'm using a green LED to match my green Aeroforce gauges) and I wanted one with a black bezel, again, to match the black bezels on my Aeroforce gauges.
Can't really help you on the lowering kit. I'm at stock ride height and I scrape my valence going into my driveway. If I want to lower the car I need to go air so I can lift the car up to get it up the slope. When the time comes Airlift makes a set of airbags I'll use. But I need to find out why they claim it doesn't fit the SS models in the rear. Airlift apparently doesn't answer their e-mails.
Go do some reading through the Suspension section, you'll learn a lot there.
its starting to annoy me
I had to replace both my tweeters. They were toast. Snapped crackled and popped more than a bowl of rice crispies!
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
I had to replace both my tweeters. They were toast. Snapped crackled and popped more than a bowl of rice crispies!
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
Fortunately a friend of mine had some kicking around. Last time he needed tweeters he bought a bulk order of 100. He'll never need to buy another tweeter his whole life.
I got an aftermarket radio that's been sitting around for I think 2 years or something an I can't figure out what brand it is I think it's from Europe cause that's what the radio region was set for lol been trying to make it work
JD yeah I've looked it up since you recommended it. Sounds like a damn good deal. Be nice to get some brand new suspension...I mean mine has got 142xxKM in rear and 9000km in the front, but still. New is always nicer
Willis you want a good stereo with bluetooth cd and auxiliary get a JVC KDR780BT. I have a 720 and the one im talkig about is bascially the 720's big sister stereo
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
Last edited by COBALTace; Feb 23, 2017 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Added link for stereo
Willis you want a good stereo with bluetooth cd and auxiliary get a JVC KDR780BT. I have a 720 and the one im talkig about is bascially the 720's big sister stereo
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-1QfBo1...KD-R780BT.html
okay how is the corning does the suspension properly lower to pull around the corner?
Trust me it will be a lot of time and Advil saved if you bought a new radio. My friend had a problem with something if a similar sort. He bought some radio from Texas and since his car is Canadian it wouldnt work and wouldnt work. Ended up having to take t to the dealer and they sent it to god knows where Mexcio for the trained GM monkeys to work on it. Long story short he got charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig and getting a stereo installed at our local Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$! When the dealer had his car they traced the loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck and messed around & cut-probed wires with a voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
Last edited by COBALTace; Feb 23, 2017 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Re read the article and it looked like i was drunk. Fixed some crap
I would argue these springs are superior, performance wise, to any other aftermarket spring on the market for our cars. A ton of time effort testing and research went into designing these springs. They aren't made with the primary goal of lowering the car but for a nearly uncompromising optimization of ride comfort and performance. If performance is priority then these springs are the right choice.
I would argue these springs are superior, performance wise, to any other aftermarket spring on the market for our cars. A ton of time effort testing and research went into designing these springs. They aren't made with the primary goal of lowering the car but for a nearly uncompromising optimization of ride comfort and performance. If performance is priority then
these springs are the right choice.
these springs are the right choice.
Trust me it will be a lot of time and Advil saved if you bought a new radio. My friend had a problem with something if a similar sort. He bought some radio from Texas and since his car is Canadian it wouldnt work and wouldnt work. Ended up having to take t to the dealer and they sent it to god knows where Mexcio for the trained GM monkeys to work on it. Long story short he got
charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig
and getting a stereo installed at our local
Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$!
When the dealer had his car they traced the
loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck
and messed around & cut-probed wires with a
voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended
up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them
to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
charged close to 200$ for it and ended up goig
and getting a stereo installed at our local
Aftermarket car parts storefor close to 500$!
When the dealer had his car they traced the
loom entirely back to the amp in the rear deck
and messed around & cut-probed wires with a
voltmeter to see what was dead that they ended
up blowing his amplifer. So he had to get them
to send away for one for 100 dollars
all I remember other than that is him being so POed the next night out at the camp he broke a beer bottle wih his bare hand :')
got sound logic lol just had the radio checked out an the radio installer said specifically that it can't run high output audio which is the tweeters so it's a good paper weight basically I'm getting a different head unit now going with a Kenwood or jvc something with high quality out put



