New 07 SS/SC, blown struts/shocks, brakes, swap boost gauge
11-25-2011, 08:24 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
New 07 SS/SC, blown struts/shocks, brakes, swap boost gauge
I just picked up my new to me 07 Cobalt SS/SC. Looks pretty on the outside, but an absolute mess on the inside 
Has 87,400km's on it (54,310mi). Got an absolutely insane deal on it, good thing too!
Drove it 10 mins from the sellers house to the shop that was going to certify it for me.
1. It was saying "low coolant" the whole trip there. The "gas bottle" was totally empty, the rad was almost full. I filled the gas bottle to "full" and the low coolant warning went away.
2. The oil life meter said 0% even though the seller said he had recently changed the oil, figured he forgot to reset it. Ummm, lol? It only had 2.2L (not even up to the bottom of the dip stick) of VERY black oil in it Drained it out, put in 4L of Castrol 5w30 non-synthetic (on sale for $12.99). Drove it around for 20 mins, did the full sea foam treatment (oil, gasoline, vacuum line). The smoke coming out was BLACK! Lots of it too!! I put the sea foam in the gas tank when there was very little gas in there, so it was probably running on 1/4 seafoam 
3. Drained the brand new oil out which now had about 200km total on it, it was very black
4. Put in a new Mobile 1 oil filter and Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic (it was the ONLY oil that had the correct GM cert number on the back of the bottle).
Noticed a LOUD clunking noise coming from the front, and a clunking noise from the rear, mostly over bumps, sometimes when cornering. It looks like the shocks. The front ones are leaking oil, the rear ones are totally destroyed. The previous owner had a MONSTER set if railroad tracks right by his house, he drove over them twice every day on the way to/from work. They don't look OEM struts and shocks (black outer body, red writing). Can't make out what it says because it's rusted so bad.
Shop checked the rest of the suspension and steering stuff and it all checked out ok.
The dealership wanted $237/side for the front struts and $130/side for the rear shocks (parts only) plus 3 hours ($330) to install them and $115 for an alignment after.
Got a smokin price on KYB GR-2 shocks ($103 ea fronts, $44 ea rears) from a local shop.
Question: How difficult is it to install the front struts? Special tools needed? I have spring compression straps I used on my 04 Grand Price GTP compG way back when.
The brakes... omg the brakes The front had brand new pads on it, but the rotor was WORN RIGHT THROUGH to the cooling veins! Who the HECK would put new pads on those friggen rotors! Retards. The rear pads were non existent, metal on metal! Rotors were almost as bad as the fronts, but not quite. Also, the passenger side rear caliper was sticking/dragging on the rotor quite bad, is it easy to clean/rebuild the calipers?
Got an absolutely retarded deal on a Powerstop cross drilled/slotted brake package (front and rear rotors, front and rear pads) $279! Part #K1612 (5 bolt, not like the pic below lol!)
I read the how-to on installing the pads and rotors and looks pretty easy so I'll give that a try myself. I would really like to do a brake fluid flush but don't know if special equipment is needed??
And last but not least, the stupid boost gauge. Who the hell measures boost in KPA?! Are they retarded?
I want to switch it over to a full mechanical gauge (NOT electric, lol) but can't decide on which gauge would look best in my new balt?
My top vote: ES series with red illumination:
GMPP with white illumination:
Phantom with old school bulb lighting, probably going to convert to RED LED:
and last but not least Cobalt, cool cause it's blue and says Cobalt, but not a fan of the blue illumination:
Any advise you could provide would be grateful
-Jamie M.
Has 87,400km's on it (54,310mi). Got an absolutely insane deal on it, good thing too!Drove it 10 mins from the sellers house to the shop that was going to certify it for me.
1. It was saying "low coolant" the whole trip there. The "gas bottle" was totally empty, the rad was almost full. I filled the gas bottle to "full" and the low coolant warning went away.
2. The oil life meter said 0% even though the seller said he had recently changed the oil, figured he forgot to reset it. Ummm, lol? It only had 2.2L (not even up to the bottom of the dip stick) of VERY black oil in it
Drained it out, put in 4L of Castrol 5w30 non-synthetic (on sale for $12.99). Drove it around for 20 mins, did the full sea foam treatment (oil, gasoline, vacuum line). The smoke coming out was BLACK! Lots of it too!! I put the sea foam in the gas tank when there was very little gas in there, so it was probably running on 1/4 seafoam 3. Drained the brand new oil out which now had about 200km total on it, it was very black
4. Put in a new Mobile 1 oil filter and Mobile 1 5w30 full synthetic (it was the ONLY oil that had the correct GM cert number on the back of the bottle
).Noticed a LOUD clunking noise coming from the front, and a clunking noise from the rear, mostly over bumps, sometimes when cornering. It looks like the shocks. The front ones are leaking oil, the rear ones are totally destroyed. The previous owner had a MONSTER set if railroad tracks right by his house, he drove over them twice every day on the way to/from work. They don't look OEM struts and shocks (black outer body, red writing). Can't make out what it says because it's rusted so bad.
Shop checked the rest of the suspension and steering stuff and it all checked out ok.
The dealership wanted $237/side for the front struts and $130/side for the rear shocks (parts only) plus 3 hours ($330) to install them and $115 for an alignment after.
Got a smokin price on KYB GR-2 shocks ($103 ea fronts, $44 ea rears) from a local shop.
Question: How difficult is it to install the front struts? Special tools needed? I have spring compression straps I used on my 04 Grand Price GTP compG way back when.
The brakes... omg the brakes
The front had brand new pads on it, but the rotor was WORN RIGHT THROUGH to the cooling veins! Who the HECK would put new pads on those friggen rotors! Retards. The rear pads were non existent, metal on metal! Rotors were almost as bad as the fronts, but not quite. Also, the passenger side rear caliper was sticking/dragging on the rotor quite bad, is it easy to clean/rebuild the calipers?Got an absolutely retarded deal on a Powerstop cross drilled/slotted brake package (front and rear rotors, front and rear pads) $279! Part #K1612 (5 bolt, not like the pic below lol!)
I read the how-to on installing the pads and rotors and looks pretty easy so I'll give that a try myself. I would really like to do a brake fluid flush but don't know if special equipment is needed??
And last but not least, the stupid boost gauge. Who the hell measures boost in KPA?! Are they retarded?
I want to switch it over to a full mechanical gauge (NOT electric, lol) but can't decide on which gauge would look best in my new balt?
My top vote: ES series with red illumination:
GMPP with white illumination:
Phantom with old school bulb lighting, probably going to convert to RED LED:
and last but not least Cobalt, cool cause it's blue and says Cobalt, but not a fan of the blue illumination:
Any advise you could provide would be grateful
-Jamie M.
11-26-2011, 08:41 PM
#2
Senior Member
Dude did you buy this from a private seller? I had a lot of problems when I first bought mine from the dealer, warped rotors, cracked headlight housing and no bulb in it, bad reverse light switch and a serpentine belt that was frayed. I was pissed, they fixed the headlight and the belt and pretty much told me to kick rocks on the brakes and the reverse light. I have got to say tho I learned a lot about the car just repairing it the first week I owned it lol.
Oh and as for the boost gauge go mechanical, trust me. My stock autometer took a dump on me and GM wanted $34X for a new one. I got a Garrett one for about $50 and trust me running the hose through the fire wall is a pain but well worth it. It is way more accurate and responds instantly. Oh and I envy your color, couldn't find one in blue but I have to say the black has grown on me.
Oh and as for the boost gauge go mechanical, trust me. My stock autometer took a dump on me and GM wanted $34X for a new one. I got a Garrett one for about $50 and trust me running the hose through the fire wall is a pain but well worth it. It is way more accurate and responds instantly. Oh and I envy your color, couldn't find one in blue
but I have to say the black has grown on me.
12-01-2011, 01:08 PM
#10
12-01-2011, 01:15 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-24-08
Location: new orleans
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice to hear you're giving it some TLC. sounds like it needs it. That dealership is a joke for charging that for shocks. I blew my rear two shocks going down on bridge on the interstate and some road work left a nice ridge between new and old concrete/asphalt. dont know how i didnt break rims and pop tires but regardless, it took 12 minutes to replace the two rear shocks and about 75 dollars for two monroe shocks. (btw the black shocks with red writing is prob monroe). any who good luck hope the car comes alive for you!
12-01-2011, 01:31 PM
#12
nice work, doing all the necessry things, hope it all works out for ya!
as for replacing the struts there is a how to on here somewhere, don't think u need any special tools but it looks like a prety tricky job (to me anyways lol)
as for replacing the struts there is a how to on here somewhere, don't think u need any special tools but it looks like a prety tricky job (to me anyways lol)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post