Speedometer and Electrical Problems PLEASE HELP!
#1
Speedometer and Electrical Problems PLEASE HELP!
Car is a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS 2.4L N/A with the 4T45-E 4-Speed Automatic Transmission w/ Overdrive. 70k on motor, 360 miles on remanufactured transmission, 1 week old
So I went on a cruise today of 160 miles 30+ mpg, and I shut my car off. A few minutes later I got back in and turned it on. The DIC flashed Power Steering (Didn't exhibit signs of loss of power steering), my fluids are all full to specs. The speedometer dropped from 30 to 0, and the transmission (automatic) wouldnt shift at all.. So I pulled over and disconnected my battery to reset the computer, hoping it would go away.. It didn't. I was 25 miles south of home in a rural area with about a gallon and a half of gas at 1am so I had to try to get home... It would cycle through at random intervals where I would hear the power locks engage or disengage, the speedo would flutter to 45, back to 0, then back up to 70 (I had to build speed from 45), and work just fine for a short period of time. My temperature readout, oil life readout, and trip readouts would display dashes "---", and it would say "Power Steering" again on the DIC, and the gauge would drop to 0, then the transmission wouldnt shift.. I don't even know what to do I need help but don't want to start buying gauges and sensors. If my front driver side wheel speed sensor is out and my t/c and abs light are on would that be the cause of it? I'm pretty sure I need to replace the speed sensor and my front left wheel bearing anyway, but I've been able to drive like that for a while without this new electrical problem. Please help.. I thought I saw something about disconnecting the driver door power controls, or something with the automatic shifter pin but I'm not quite sure where to start.. Just spent a bunch of money on a remanufactured transmission. Also, I checked my bcm fuses, as well as my abs fuse under the hood. I can make a video tomorrow if that helps.
p.s. my car sat for about 3 months while I gathered the money together and I found a wasp nest pretty much carmelized to the wiring that runs from the ignition coil packs down on the passenger side >.< beat that bitch with a hammer. I hate wasps.
So I went on a cruise today of 160 miles 30+ mpg, and I shut my car off. A few minutes later I got back in and turned it on. The DIC flashed Power Steering (Didn't exhibit signs of loss of power steering), my fluids are all full to specs. The speedometer dropped from 30 to 0, and the transmission (automatic) wouldnt shift at all.. So I pulled over and disconnected my battery to reset the computer, hoping it would go away.. It didn't. I was 25 miles south of home in a rural area with about a gallon and a half of gas at 1am so I had to try to get home... It would cycle through at random intervals where I would hear the power locks engage or disengage, the speedo would flutter to 45, back to 0, then back up to 70 (I had to build speed from 45), and work just fine for a short period of time. My temperature readout, oil life readout, and trip readouts would display dashes "---", and it would say "Power Steering" again on the DIC, and the gauge would drop to 0, then the transmission wouldnt shift.. I don't even know what to do I need help but don't want to start buying gauges and sensors. If my front driver side wheel speed sensor is out and my t/c and abs light are on would that be the cause of it? I'm pretty sure I need to replace the speed sensor and my front left wheel bearing anyway, but I've been able to drive like that for a while without this new electrical problem. Please help.. I thought I saw something about disconnecting the driver door power controls, or something with the automatic shifter pin but I'm not quite sure where to start.. Just spent a bunch of money on a remanufactured transmission. Also, I checked my bcm fuses, as well as my abs fuse under the hood. I can make a video tomorrow if that helps.
p.s. my car sat for about 3 months while I gathered the money together and I found a wasp nest pretty much carmelized to the wiring that runs from the ignition coil packs down on the passenger side >.< beat that bitch with a hammer. I hate wasps.
#5
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Join Date: 10-29-09
Location: Southeast Michigan, Parma Ohio
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Take a look at my thread. I had a similar problem. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-start-297804/
#8
No p0503, haven't used jumper cables. I'm going to try and disconnect my driver door locks. I haven't messed with that wiring at all. Tried to tell my step dad and he didnt believe me... It does sound oddly far fetched, but I was with someone else last night that was there when I had to kill my car in neutral on the highway and wait for the gauge to come back /: give me a lil bit ill try to do this video as fast as possible. Going to reconnect my negative wire, I disconnected it after i got home last night
Code is p0171 system too lean bank 1, that's not the cause of the issue.
Code is p0171 system too lean bank 1, that's not the cause of the issue.
Last edited by 06Cobalt2.4; 07-10-2013 at 12:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#14
No I don't think anything got wet. The problem happened on my way to class, then when I was getting over into the left turn lane to get to a gas station to disconnect the battery, the battery wire came off of the post bracket or whatever.. But I had made it loosish last night when I had to keep pulling over on the highway.. smh im getting sick of this. anyway I just made it to class, got a test in 8 minutes so I'm going to try and get the video uploaded.. It will say video 1 of 2, but the 2nd video I made was me verbally explaining what had happened, and the gauge decided to work the rest of the way.. Either way I caught this enigma on video and I'll get it up, hopefully someone will be able to help me. It drove fine most of the way to class but I pulled out my phone really quick to make this. Video will be up within an hour and a half or so.
#15
taken on my iphone 4, I can reupload later with HD if needed...
the DIC only says Power Steering the whole time.
Last edited by 06Cobalt2.4; 07-10-2013 at 02:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
Thats the thing.. It's a maybe /:
I have access to AllDataPro, and OnDemand5 Mitchell at my Community College.
Wheel Speed Sensor Part Number: GM OEM 25954989 is this it?
Speedometer: 15855362 I'm pretty sure this came from a 4 door LT or LS, would this work? Says automatic transmission, 56 k on it (I don't even care about the numbers as long as I stop having issues...)
Sorry I'm just trying to put as much information as I can out so someone may be able to help me be constructive... Can't keep my car running at 3-4k rpm. I'll eventually get pulled over and asked how fast I'm going, and genuinely not know..
I have access to AllDataPro, and OnDemand5 Mitchell at my Community College.
Wheel Speed Sensor Part Number: GM OEM 25954989 is this it?
Speedometer: 15855362 I'm pretty sure this came from a 4 door LT or LS, would this work? Says automatic transmission, 56 k on it (I don't even care about the numbers as long as I stop having issues...)
Sorry I'm just trying to put as much information as I can out so someone may be able to help me be constructive... Can't keep my car running at 3-4k rpm. I'll eventually get pulled over and asked how fast I'm going, and genuinely not know..
#23
Thanks guys and girl(s) appreciated input. Asked my shop teacher and he said vehicle speed sensor on transmission. Called trans shop, they said bring in a sensor and they'll do it under warranty. $19 at O'Ricely's. I had a faulty trans vehicle speed sensor off my old unit that I had put in. That unit was **** all-around. Ill update whether its good to go or not. Shoulda figured another faulty GM sensor.
#24
Senior Member
Like if you buy a speedometer used from someone and their car has like 50k miles and you put it on your car, the speedometer with reset to the mileage on your car.