timing chain clicking?
There is no need to remove the valve cover. Remove the existing "tensioner" with a 32mm 6 point socket, look out for some oil. Check out the new tensioner. It has a spring loaded actuator inside that can be pulled out. it should be locked down into place if not, push it closed with your fingers and rotate it clockwise til it locks back down. keep it out of the cylinder and line it up with the timing chain tensioner inside the hole you've just opened, try and twist it a little and once you feel it stop twisting you've seated it correctly. put some oil on the rubber grommet seal and put the cylinder over the inner actuator. tighten it to 55 ft-lbs. crank the engine a little try not to start it, if it does turn it off right away and start it again. you need to somehow prime the new tensioner since it is hydraulic. you'll hear it rattle like hell a little and after a second or 2 the noise should be completely gone. some minor noise is common from low oil temp. let it warm up and you shouldn't hear anything but the chain itself rotating. Sorry I don't have any diagrams or anything.
well, there isn't a way to do it 100% accurate without taking the front cover and chain off and lining the colored marks up. But if you know where the marks on the cam gear are supposto be you can look and see if they are close....
There is no need to remove the valve cover. Remove the existing "tensioner" with a 32mm 6 point socket, look out for some oil. Check out the new tensioner. It has a spring loaded actuator inside that can be pulled out. it should be locked down into place if not, push it closed with your fingers and rotate it clockwise til it locks back down. keep it out of the cylinder and line it up with the timing chain tensioner inside the hole you've just opened, try and twist it a little and once you feel it stop twisting you've seated it correctly. put some oil on the rubber grommet seal and put the cylinder over the inner actuator. tighten it to 55 ft-lbs. crank the engine a little try not to start it, if it does turn it off right away and start it again. you need to somehow prime the new tensioner since it is hydraulic. you'll hear it rattle like hell a little and after a second or 2 the noise should be completely gone. some minor noise is common from low oil temp. let it warm up and you shouldn't hear anything but the chain itself rotating. Sorry I don't have any diagrams or anything.
hmmm interesting. I read the procedure on mitchell and it pretty much says the shoe which is spring loaded will unlock itself when 2 lbs of oil pressure hits it. where'd you get that info from? that sounds shitty, the procedure worked what would I junk a gasket and spend all that time for? the chain's not slipping the damn thing is on teeth.
Last edited by ff_drift_lol; Mar 31, 2009 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
hmmm interesting. I read the procedure on mitchell and it pretty much says the shoe which is spring loaded will unlock itself when 2 lbs of oil pressure hits it. where'd you get that info from? that sounds shitty, the procedure worked what would I junk a gasket and spend all that time for? the chain's not slipping the damn thing is on teeth.
The correct method is removing the valve cover like I and spaz said, which is what it says to do in service information. As far as the valve cover gasket...it's rubber and reusable, as long as you don't tear it up taking it apart. I've had mine off a couple times. Doin it the correct way I've never had them make any noise or anything upon initial start up.
The correct method is removing the valve cover like I and spaz said, which is what it says to do in service information. As far as the valve cover gasket...it's rubber and reusable, as long as you don't tear it up taking it apart. I've had mine off a couple times. Doin it the correct way I've never had them make any noise or anything upon initial start up.
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