Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

timing chain clicking?

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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #26  
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol
There is no need to remove the valve cover. Remove the existing "tensioner" with a 32mm 6 point socket, look out for some oil. Check out the new tensioner. It has a spring loaded actuator inside that can be pulled out. it should be locked down into place if not, push it closed with your fingers and rotate it clockwise til it locks back down. keep it out of the cylinder and line it up with the timing chain tensioner inside the hole you've just opened, try and twist it a little and once you feel it stop twisting you've seated it correctly. put some oil on the rubber grommet seal and put the cylinder over the inner actuator. tighten it to 55 ft-lbs. crank the engine a little try not to start it, if it does turn it off right away and start it again. you need to somehow prime the new tensioner since it is hydraulic. you'll hear it rattle like hell a little and after a second or 2 the noise should be completely gone. some minor noise is common from low oil temp. let it warm up and you shouldn't hear anything but the chain itself rotating. Sorry I don't have any diagrams or anything.
Ok, this is what you want to NOT do. You need to remove the valve cover, and after you install the new tensioner insert a long flat bladed tool and press against the tensioner to release it. Then it should apply pressure to the guide. If you tensioner was bad, it would be a good idea to remove the cover anyways and take a look down in there at the chain/guides...and make sure your timing isn't way out.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #27  
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From: louisiana
How can you visually inspect the timing to see if its way out.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:38 PM
  #28  
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by TRANSAM197781
How can you visually inspect the timing to see if its way out.


well, there isn't a way to do it 100% accurate without taking the front cover and chain off and lining the colored marks up. But if you know where the marks on the cam gear are supposto be you can look and see if they are close....
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #29  
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From: Calgary,Canada
Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol
There is no need to remove the valve cover. Remove the existing "tensioner" with a 32mm 6 point socket, look out for some oil. Check out the new tensioner. It has a spring loaded actuator inside that can be pulled out. it should be locked down into place if not, push it closed with your fingers and rotate it clockwise til it locks back down. keep it out of the cylinder and line it up with the timing chain tensioner inside the hole you've just opened, try and twist it a little and once you feel it stop twisting you've seated it correctly. put some oil on the rubber grommet seal and put the cylinder over the inner actuator. tighten it to 55 ft-lbs. crank the engine a little try not to start it, if it does turn it off right away and start it again. you need to somehow prime the new tensioner since it is hydraulic. you'll hear it rattle like hell a little and after a second or 2 the noise should be completely gone. some minor noise is common from low oil temp. let it warm up and you shouldn't hear anything but the chain itself rotating. Sorry I don't have any diagrams or anything.
You are actually supposed to pull the valve cover off so you can use a screwdriver to push the shoe in towards the tensioner so it will release from the lock pin and load the shoe against the timing chain.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:35 AM
  #30  
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From: long island
Originally Posted by TRANSAM197781
I was watching my interceptor gauge and i was getting 2.5 to 3.0 kr in higher rpms it would blip for a sec then go away then blip again. What kinda kr were you getting whit youre old timing chain tensioner.
I was getting up to 7 degrees. I saw it hit double digits on rare occasions. After I noticed it I just stopped letting it boost. anything over 1 degree means there's something wrong unless you're bucking like crazy

Originally Posted by spaz
You are actually supposed to pull the valve cover off so you can use a screwdriver to push the shoe in towards the tensioner so it will release from the lock pin and load the shoe against the timing chain.
hmmm interesting. I read the procedure on mitchell and it pretty much says the shoe which is spring loaded will unlock itself when 2 lbs of oil pressure hits it. where'd you get that info from? that sounds shitty, the procedure worked what would I junk a gasket and spend all that time for? the chain's not slipping the damn thing is on teeth.

Last edited by ff_drift_lol; Mar 31, 2009 at 01:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #31  
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From: louisiana
Did that fix youre intermitent kr problem
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #32  
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by ff_drift_lol
hmmm interesting. I read the procedure on mitchell and it pretty much says the shoe which is spring loaded will unlock itself when 2 lbs of oil pressure hits it. where'd you get that info from? that sounds shitty, the procedure worked what would I junk a gasket and spend all that time for? the chain's not slipping the damn thing is on teeth.

The correct method is removing the valve cover like I and spaz said, which is what it says to do in service information. As far as the valve cover gasket...it's rubber and reusable, as long as you don't tear it up taking it apart. I've had mine off a couple times. Doin it the correct way I've never had them make any noise or anything upon initial start up.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #33  
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From: long island
Originally Posted by Sunburst_SS
The correct method is removing the valve cover like I and spaz said, which is what it says to do in service information. As far as the valve cover gasket...it's rubber and reusable, as long as you don't tear it up taking it apart. I've had mine off a couple times. Doin it the correct way I've never had them make any noise or anything upon initial start up.
word man that's respectable. thank you for that info. I edited the initial post about the procedure
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