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Tweeters blown....

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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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freakaccident's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Tweeters blown....

Yes my tweeters are blown. I have no idea how. They rattle like mad. Hopefully the dealer will replace them without giving me any crap.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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I can't figure out if the rattle on my passenger side door is coming from my speakers or something else...every time I try to figure it out all I can hear is the sub. Good luck getting them fixed, if they're blown I don't think it'll be covered under warranty but you never know. I didn't think there would be enough power pushing through the system to blow anything (unless you have it maxed out constantly) but hopefully they take care of it.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Permafried-
I can't figure out if the rattle on my passenger side door is coming from my speakers or something else...every time I try to figure it out all I can hear is the sub. Good luck getting them fixed, if they're blown I don't think it'll be covered under warranty but you never know. I didn't think there would be enough power pushing through the system to blow anything (unless you have it maxed out constantly) but hopefully they take care of it.

Use the balance and fader to isolate it to the front left.

They better take care of it. I havent had the car a week yet and I don't boom boom my radio.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by freakaccident
Use the balance and fader to isolate it to the front left.

They better take care of it. I havent had the car a week yet and I don't boom boom my radio.
Strange, maybe the speaker is just loose because I've almost always got mine pounding at almost 3/4 volume...the louder the better ! I'm going to give them another test tonight (of course I never thought of the obvious balance/fade) but I have a feeling it's something in my door. Let us know how things work out, maybe it'll just be something as simple as tightening some screws or adding some filler and you won't have to worry about getting the speaker swapped out.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Permafried-
Strange, maybe the speaker is just loose because I've almost always got mine pounding at almost 3/4 volume...the louder the better ! I'm going to give them another test tonight (of course I never thought of the obvious balance/fade) but I have a feeling it's something in my door. Let us know how things work out, maybe it'll just be something as simple as tightening some screws or adding some filler and you won't have to worry about getting the speaker swapped out.
I doubt it but that would be nice.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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Quote:

I didn't think there would be enough power pushing through the system to blow anything (unless you have it maxed out constantly) but hopefully they take care of it.


Power doesn't kill speakers distortion and lack of power does.


It is very rare to see a fried tweeter, usually they just short and stop working if something does happen. They don't really move enough to make a noise.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:09 PM
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my dad's mechanic told us that if the speakers are gonna blow, its always the tweeters first.......haha dont know why ...but if ur dealer is gonna charge u for it....i suggest u to get an aftermarket better tweeters
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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The tweeters will go first if they are not isolated from the bass.

Codyss is right it is not too much power, it is a lack of clean power. Distortion is what kills speakers.

I know people who work for Rockford Fosgate. They said the woofers are tested at over their "max RMS" power rating. (For those unfamiliar with the terms, RMS is clean distortion free signal and Peak is with distortion) They run their comp woofers at max RMS rating for a week straight in a test chamber with no problems. Once they get distortion, the voice coils went pop. (I guess the Lightning Audio ones smell horrible when they get over worked. The coils are made of a plastic and melt when they get too hot.)
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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that sucks big time man ... let hope they cover them...
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Permafried-
I can't figure out if the rattle on my passenger side door is coming from my speakers or something else...every time I try to figure it out all I can hear is the sub. Good luck getting them fixed, if they're blown I don't think it'll be covered under warranty but you never know. I didn't think there would be enough power pushing through the system to blow anything (unless you have it maxed out constantly) but hopefully they take care of it.
do you have window cranks? When it's cold, my window cranks rattle like mad until I give them a little tap... weird.

Scott
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Adirondack_Cobalt
do you have window cranks? When it's cold, my window cranks rattle like mad until I give them a little tap... weird.

Scott
No window cranks everything is power...I made sure of that when I purchased it . I tried some things out last night and the rattle seems to be coming from inside the door and I'm not about to take the panel off to figure out what it is.

Sorry for the mis-wording of my post regarding power...maybe I shouldn't reply at work when I've got 30 other things on the go . As for the tweeters I know they went on my friend's Civic less than 2 years after he purchased it, we just haven't gotten around to changing them out yet but good lord they sound awful.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
(For those unfamiliar with the terms, RMS is clean distortion free signal and Peak is with distortion)
Sorry but you seem to be misinformed unless I am misreading your statement (or if I am misinformed lol)... the RMS power is the amount of continuous power either given out (by an amp) or able to be received (by a speaker) without blowing (it can take just a second or hours of power ABOVE these limits before the speaker or amp blows - it all depends on quality). Peak power refers to just that, the largest amount of power either given out (by an amp) or able to be received without blowing (by a speaker).

Now these numbers are not necessarily set in stone - some manufacturers under rate and some over rate. To say that RMS and peak has to do anything with the amount of distortion present is incorrect. Maybe if you push these levels you will experience distortion, but that is also not a given. Sound quality and amount of distortion has more behind it than just the amount of power. There is line noise, low quality tracks, etc, etc.

Not tryin to be a dick, just getting that information out there for all...so please don't be offended.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 02:30 PM
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So did they replace them under warrenty? if not I have a set of blaupunkt ones if you want them they are yours. they should fit in the stock spot no problem. I sold the rest of the syster a while ago and just can't throw them away.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by abstract
Sorry but you seem to be misinformed unless I am misreading your statement (or if I am misinformed lol)... the RMS power is the amount of continuous power either given out (by an amp) or able to be received (by a speaker) without blowing (it can take just a second or hours of power ABOVE these limits before the speaker or amp blows - it all depends on quality). Peak power refers to just that, the largest amount of power either given out (by an amp) or able to be received without blowing (by a speaker).

Now these numbers are not necessarily set in stone - some manufacturers under rate and some over rate. To say that RMS and peak has to do anything with the amount of distortion present is incorrect. Maybe if you push these levels you will experience distortion, but that is also not a given. Sound quality and amount of distortion has more behind it than just the amount of power. There is line noise, low quality tracks, etc, etc.

Not tryin to be a dick, just getting that information out there for all...so please don't be offended.
That could be. It wasn't an engineer I was talking too, so he could have been wrong as well.

They do under rate them. I had a Rockford 700X, 700 watt @ 2 Ohms 4 channel amp, that was tested at their facility putting out 901 watts @ 2 Ohms.
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Old Jan 12, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by R33P3R007
So did they replace them under warrenty? if not I have a set of blaupunkt ones if you want them they are yours. they should fit in the stock spot no problem. I sold the rest of the syster a while ago and just can't throw them away.

I haven't taken it in yet. It's not bothering me much so it can wait until I collect another reason to go in. I've been getting the idle drop deal for the past couple of days so it may go in sooner than later.
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