Compounded now swirls?
Compounded now swirls?
I used 3M rubbing compound and 3M machine polishing compound and used Z-Best wax that i got at the car show. Now there is these swirls from the machine all over the car. I have no idea what to do. Anyone got any ideas??
mmmk...
i have never heard of that polisher....also wool pads help if you know how but can cause problems if you dont know how...
also you need to compound with aggressive pad...then compound with less agressive pad(should be foam)...then polish with polishing pad (should be foam)...then wax with wax pad (foam) or by hand
i have never heard of that polisher....also wool pads help if you know how but can cause problems if you dont know how...
also you need to compound with aggressive pad...then compound with less agressive pad(should be foam)...then polish with polishing pad (should be foam)...then wax with wax pad (foam) or by hand
Since I am just getting familiar with this forum (spend my time on another forum for the LSJ for the redheaded stepbrother of the SS/SC). Maybe you could redirect the OP to the proper post for learning how to use the machine? I haven't read much of any of the posts I have found on the subject but most people seem to say either two options work.
1) Know what your doing and do it yourself or if you dont meet criteria 1 go to 2
2) Pay a professional that you know is good.
Hopefully this isn't taken the wrong way, but would like to help the guy find the information he is after and the bump might have some resonance.
GL
1) Know what your doing and do it yourself or if you dont meet criteria 1 go to 2
2) Pay a professional that you know is good.
Hopefully this isn't taken the wrong way, but would like to help the guy find the information he is after and the bump might have some resonance.
GL
People that don't know how to buff should not buff. Not to sound like a dick. But you use a compound to buff scratches out. You can use a wool pad witch is pretty aggressive, i use a red foam pad from meguires. then you need a swirl remover and a softer pad. I use a black pad from meguires. The first compound will leave swirls.
meguires also sells a yellow pad and i use it on all cars and it does not leave any swirls on any color besides black( if u use a lighter compound like meguires 95 or 105 it will not leave swirls on black). i do this everyday lol so i kinda know what i am talking about and yes the red pads cut fast and are a very nice pad along with the foam( black) pad./ or the checkered( yellow ) pad.
also are the swirls like compund burns?? if u can put water or meguires( final inspection) on it and it rubs off it could be compund burns but if it looks like scratches than it prob is the compound and not finishing in a fine enough compound... b4 re buffing i would re wax it in the sun( oposit of directions) but i do it in the sun so the wax sets into the surfice of the paint and i think it gets rid of more of the swirls . ( i use meguires yellow wax)
yeah i know i use alot of meguires products.
also are the swirls like compund burns?? if u can put water or meguires( final inspection) on it and it rubs off it could be compund burns but if it looks like scratches than it prob is the compound and not finishing in a fine enough compound... b4 re buffing i would re wax it in the sun( oposit of directions) but i do it in the sun so the wax sets into the surfice of the paint and i think it gets rid of more of the swirls . ( i use meguires yellow wax)
yeah i know i use alot of meguires products.
My 0.02 General Speaking about OUR pads.
The polishes and compounds used with pads need to be matched correctly. When using any compounding chemical one must use either a wool pads or coarser foam pads the (yellow) and (orange). They both are great pads for compounding; the orange has an advantage of being a closed cell foam rather than the yellow being a open celled foam. The closed cell (orange) will keep the compound more on the surface of the pad giving the user a more aggressive cut rather than the yellow open celled pad letting the compound be saturated more easily but still being aggressive for cutting.
Now the green and blue foam pads are for polishing, the green being the straight polishing pad has a bite to it unlike no other pad out in the market. The blue foam is softer and can be a mediator pad like soft polishing or a finish pad.
The (black) foam pads are for finishing and should be used with finishing stages like micro finishing polishes, waxes or even glazes. The white foam are the ultimate finishing pads used with sealants or waxes as well but keep in mind that the black and white have no cutting action are just final step pads.
Foam Pads for the Porter Cable -provided are the guidelines for the Standard Industry color-code useage of foam pads.
Yellow Foam Pad- Use for Heavy duty Compound
Orange Foam Pad- Use for Light duty compound
White Foam Pad- Use for Polish
Green Foam Pad- Use for Compound/Polish
Black Foam Pad- Use for machine Glaze
Blue Foam Pad- Use for Polish/Sealant

It takes time but with time you will get better at it.
I hope this helps
The polishes and compounds used with pads need to be matched correctly. When using any compounding chemical one must use either a wool pads or coarser foam pads the (yellow) and (orange). They both are great pads for compounding; the orange has an advantage of being a closed cell foam rather than the yellow being a open celled foam. The closed cell (orange) will keep the compound more on the surface of the pad giving the user a more aggressive cut rather than the yellow open celled pad letting the compound be saturated more easily but still being aggressive for cutting.
Now the green and blue foam pads are for polishing, the green being the straight polishing pad has a bite to it unlike no other pad out in the market. The blue foam is softer and can be a mediator pad like soft polishing or a finish pad.
The (black) foam pads are for finishing and should be used with finishing stages like micro finishing polishes, waxes or even glazes. The white foam are the ultimate finishing pads used with sealants or waxes as well but keep in mind that the black and white have no cutting action are just final step pads.
Foam Pads for the Porter Cable -provided are the guidelines for the Standard Industry color-code useage of foam pads.
Yellow Foam Pad- Use for Heavy duty Compound
Orange Foam Pad- Use for Light duty compound
White Foam Pad- Use for Polish
Green Foam Pad- Use for Compound/Polish
Black Foam Pad- Use for machine Glaze
Blue Foam Pad- Use for Polish/Sealant

It takes time but with time you will get better at it.
I hope this helps
its got to be the pads im using then. cause im not burning it. it just looks like you can see where i moved the machine up and down or left or right. on the polishing compound it says to use a grey foam pad. Do you guys think i would need to reuse the rubing compound or should i just use the polishing compound again and rewax. maybe ill take a picture 2moro and post it up here.
My first question will be why are you using a "Rubbing Compound" ?
This is a very interesting subject for some of us, as many people “refer” to the so called “Rubbing Compound” when in reality, rubbing compound is a “Generic term” giving to the “rub-bin compound” as in the early days it was “Rub” in a circular motion by hand, with the aid of the compound, it just happens that the name has been misused for many other products pretty much like some people call an “Allen Key” when the true is that is a “Hex Key” there’s no “Allen” anywhere in there, but the name has become the “recognized name”
We can define the term “Rubbing Compound “ in many ways, even that many manufactures still refer to the so called “Rubbing Compound” but
The ONLY and true definition of “Rubbing Compound" is:
A commercially prepared mixture of abrasive powder and lubricant that is used for a final rubbing of a finished surface; often sold in automotive stores.
However, we can go as far as saying that Rubbing Compound is a wrongly used term as people will refer to things like
Resurrect the gloss in your boat's gel coat
Fast cutting compound with a finishing material
Light Duty Rubbing Compound is a liquid rubbing compound that will remove light oxidation, minor surfaces scratches and marks
Liquid formula rubbing compound, light-medium oxidation or heavy.
Removes stains, medium oxidation, and light scratches. Use on fiberglass, metal, and painted surfaces. Great for hand or buffer application.
A polish that contains abrasives harsh enough to remove layers of "dead" paint. Useful in radical restoration procedures, rubbing ...
A specially formulated emulsion of materials designed to remove paint surface imperfections such as scratches, oxidation, stains, and acid rain ...
And the list is very long, if you consider that people even call this “Rubbing Compound”
Spot Remover
Light Cut Compound
Medium Cut Compound
Heavy Cut Compound
And so on, they are all “Compounds” not rubbing Compound, So if we were to “recommend you a Rubbing Compound” which one could we possible refer to?
First we must define what is that we are after, does the surface contain Oxidation? Is the paint dull due to the usage of the wrong car shampoo, are Swirl Marks the issue?
Depending on the condition after the evaluation we can then proceed with the proper selection of the product.
One way that we used to evaluate the condition of the surface is using an old fashion trick






If you feel very small “bumps” then you need to strip all the wax and start fresh, this task can be accomplish via our oxidation block which will remover all the contaminants from the vehicle surface, as you can see we already have tackled a mayor flaw without the use of “Rubbing Compound”


If we continue further on the evaluation of the surface this will tell us what products are the ones in need, I’m providing a photo of the actual condition of the surface from a customers car, this is the hood of the vehicle as found.




And the finished product using a “Swirl Remover” which is, a uniquely formulated product that when used properly quickly removes swirl marks and leaves a clear glossy finish. It contains no silicones or fillers. Works well on all painted surfaces and equally as well on clear coats.


After the initial evaluation we were able to choose the correct products, as you can see from the finished product we never used any “Rubbing Compound”


I hope that I have provided you enough information to help you select the proper products for the future.
This is a very interesting subject for some of us, as many people “refer” to the so called “Rubbing Compound” when in reality, rubbing compound is a “Generic term” giving to the “rub-bin compound” as in the early days it was “Rub” in a circular motion by hand, with the aid of the compound, it just happens that the name has been misused for many other products pretty much like some people call an “Allen Key” when the true is that is a “Hex Key” there’s no “Allen” anywhere in there, but the name has become the “recognized name”
We can define the term “Rubbing Compound “ in many ways, even that many manufactures still refer to the so called “Rubbing Compound” but
The ONLY and true definition of “Rubbing Compound" is:
A commercially prepared mixture of abrasive powder and lubricant that is used for a final rubbing of a finished surface; often sold in automotive stores.
However, we can go as far as saying that Rubbing Compound is a wrongly used term as people will refer to things like
Resurrect the gloss in your boat's gel coat
Fast cutting compound with a finishing material
Light Duty Rubbing Compound is a liquid rubbing compound that will remove light oxidation, minor surfaces scratches and marks
Liquid formula rubbing compound, light-medium oxidation or heavy.
Removes stains, medium oxidation, and light scratches. Use on fiberglass, metal, and painted surfaces. Great for hand or buffer application.
A polish that contains abrasives harsh enough to remove layers of "dead" paint. Useful in radical restoration procedures, rubbing ...
A specially formulated emulsion of materials designed to remove paint surface imperfections such as scratches, oxidation, stains, and acid rain ...
And the list is very long, if you consider that people even call this “Rubbing Compound”
Spot Remover
Light Cut Compound
Medium Cut Compound
Heavy Cut Compound
And so on, they are all “Compounds” not rubbing Compound, So if we were to “recommend you a Rubbing Compound” which one could we possible refer to?
First we must define what is that we are after, does the surface contain Oxidation? Is the paint dull due to the usage of the wrong car shampoo, are Swirl Marks the issue?
Depending on the condition after the evaluation we can then proceed with the proper selection of the product.
One way that we used to evaluate the condition of the surface is using an old fashion trick






If you feel very small “bumps” then you need to strip all the wax and start fresh, this task can be accomplish via our oxidation block which will remover all the contaminants from the vehicle surface, as you can see we already have tackled a mayor flaw without the use of “Rubbing Compound”


If we continue further on the evaluation of the surface this will tell us what products are the ones in need, I’m providing a photo of the actual condition of the surface from a customers car, this is the hood of the vehicle as found.




And the finished product using a “Swirl Remover” which is, a uniquely formulated product that when used properly quickly removes swirl marks and leaves a clear glossy finish. It contains no silicones or fillers. Works well on all painted surfaces and equally as well on clear coats.


After the initial evaluation we were able to choose the correct products, as you can see from the finished product we never used any “Rubbing Compound”


I hope that I have provided you enough information to help you select the proper products for the future.
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