CJ BadBlackSS

Hey everyone. I've been googling but I am getting tired of trying to find the info I need.

I have a Porter Cable 7424 Random-Orbit Polisher/Sander. I am trying to get swirl marks out of my black paint. Now the questions I am looking to get answered.

What is the difference between polishing and waxing? Are they the same thing, are they interchangable? I have the polishing pad that came with my polisher...its foam. I also have a hook n loop attachment that I have a wool polishing pad for.

I have major swirl marks (black paint) and I want to get rid of them. Do I apply a light compound by hand and remove it with a polishing pad? Do I then apply wax by hand and remove with a different polishing pad?

Thanks for the help. hope this stays flame free.

CJ BadBlackSS

bumperooo

cobi

with the PC you'll have good results polishing with a foam bad by machine. I reccomend Meguiars Detailing line I would try number #83 and #80 if you need it followed by a nice coat or two of wax.

These sites will give you all the info you need

meguiars.com
autopia.org
autogeek.net

CJ BadBlackSS

OK I'll take a look at those sites. What are you referring to with #80 and #83? So use the foam pad for applying and removing polish or just removing hand applied polish?

cobi

#80 and #83 are different polishes made by meguiars in their professional line, look at their site and you will see what I am talking about. Yes use the foam pad to apply and a different pad to buff it out. You will most likely want to polish with you PC as it is quite safe, you'll find polishing by hand is a PITA and will not produce results as nice as the PC will.

CJ BadBlackSS

What would you recomend for buffing out? A nice soft cloth pad?

cobi

Personally I just use a microfiber towel and then for buffing wax I use a microfiber bonnet on a foam pad.

So I say take off(buff) the excess polish with a MF towel, and buff the wax out with a foam pad or a foam pad covered with a microfiber bonnet.

CJ BadBlackSS

Awesome Thanks!

So heres my plan for tomorrow:

-Wash
-Claybar
-Wash and dry
-Apply Meguiars DeepCrystal Paint Cleaner with foam applicator w/ PC
-Buff by hand
-Apply Meguiars DeepCrystal Polish with Microfiber w/PC
-Buff by hand (maybe use a fresh MF applicator and PC to buff?)
-Apply NXT Tech Wax for a good polymer wax base for duration
-Buff by hand
-Apply Meguiars Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax for depth of shine
-Buff by hand.

Also will be using the NXT wash instead of my usual Meguiars Gold class wash and for some ***** and Giggles I will be trying the NXT tire shine instead of my usual Eagle One.

I will be taking pics of before during and after for this project.

TVS_SS

Dont use the pad that comes with the porter cable!!...

There are so many good pads out there.. dont use that piece of crap.

like this for example... http://detailcity.com/complete-porte...ssory-kit.html

CJ BadBlackSS

Never said i was using it....

TVS_SS

oh and i'll reccomend 3M products..

PN 39002 and 39009

my black camaro came out like a million bucks with them... but knowing detailing for years.. there are always other products that achieve the same result..

cobi

Looks very good except for a few things:
Apply the Meguiars DeepCrystal Polish with a pad instead of a MF
I would switch the order you apply your two waxes, with my experience the NXT is a very good "topper" to any wax but doesnt last to long. I'd try the Caranauba first and the NXT will give it that deep, glossy, wet look on top of it.

Other than that very good process
And let me know which soap you like better, I personally prefer the Gold class for the conditioners but the NXT seems to have a little more cleaning power.

CJ BadBlackSS

Thats the exact opposite of what meguiars and autopia recomend...

cobi

Which parts? I know for a fact Meguiars reccomend different foam pads for polishing.

CJ BadBlackSS

Meguiars said to put the NXT on first for the wet look and then the carnuaba 2nd for the deep look. doesn't matter. only had tme for the NXT.

cobi

ahhhh ok I understand you now. Yah there are mixed feelings on how to apply NXT pretty much any way you do it will look good. Thats all I use is NXT as well.

Tofu

I have listed products I have personally used.

No Rinse Washing

Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine

Conventional Washing

Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash

--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.

Drying

Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.

Wheel Cleaners

Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.

Clay Bars

Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.

Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.

Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.

Polishes and compounds

My favorite polishes and compounds are:

Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish

Use by hand:

Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.

By Porter Cable polisher

Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.

Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.

Final Polishes and Glazes

You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.

Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One

Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.

Waxes

As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.

Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba

Sealants

Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant

Quick Detail Sprays

You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.

Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff

Interior Cleaning Products

I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.

Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.

Interior Protectants

Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-

Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex

Leather-

Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)


Miscellaneous

Glass cleaners:

Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass

Tire/fenderwell dressing:

Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)

Trim dressing:

Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black

Engine Cleaning

1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.

** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **

2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.

3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.

4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.

5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.

6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.

7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.

cobi

Nice tofu +1 rep

CJ BadBlackSS

Tofu...

Punkloser6

can someone help me. i waxed my car a week ago and didnt realize i got some on the black plastic parts of my car. the mirror arm, grill fins i was wondering if anyone knows the easiest way to remove the white look on those parts. i wiped it off originally when i noticed after i was done but it left a residue and it doesnt come off by hand or with water.

CJ BadBlackSS

Look under miscellaneous in Tofu's post.

cobi

Meguiars- Tech protect
Mothers - back to black

And the strangest of all - peanut butter, specifically the oil in it

All of thse should work