Please stay on topic

here is a picture of the scratches, you cant feel them.

 

so is there a story behind this?

 

how in the hell did that happen haha

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show-shine-140/getting-scratches-out-116233/

 

WOW, that's dumb.

 

u would be spending ALOT of time using 3m scratch remover.

id get some 1,500 grit sand paper, a bucket of water and ALOT of time.

you would have to follow up with 2,000 afterward.

BUT!!!

since you asked even how to get the scratches out, im assuming you have never done it, so take it to an autobody shop and have them do it. Cost maybe 50-100 depending on your area.

or find someone like hatrick to do it for you.

 

useless post?

 

DO NOT SAND IT!!!!!!! I would just get a med grit compound and buff it they should come out most of the way

 

What do u think your "medium grade" compound is? What grade is "medium" to you?

these posts are useless sometimes.

 

How long have you worked in a body shop??? Me 8yrs I know what I am talking about compound is not as agressive as sand paper regardless if it is 1500 or not, I wouldent even use 3000 grit wet/dry sand paper on factory paint B/c whrn you sand you are removig the clear and you still have to buff the scratches out from the sand paper thus removing more material resulting in burning your paint!! Just buff it no sanding if you cant't feel the scratchs then they are just on the surface of the clear so a light to medium grade compound will remove them, follow up with a foam polishing pad and a good swirl mark remover. I recomend th 3m Perfectit 3000 line of products.

 

from the picture i see a couple of deep nicks that will need MAYBE compounding. However compound is an abrassive that does the same thing as wet sanding. No compound I know of that is on the market that is 3k grade. If you want to avoid abrassives all-together ONLY a polish. Compounding correctly needs the rotary and there isnt enough area that is that deep. Wet sand the nicks and follow up with a 2-3k blend. After use the buffer and polish.

Dont tell me you dont want to cut in to the clear and suggest a compound. I think ANY compound is too much. You only have a couple of nicks that need the 1500 grit, the rest is pretty close to the surface that can be blended.

8 years and this is the advice u give.....

You sir, are the reason i will never take my car to a detailer and why i see the horror stories on this site taking them in.

 

I wont argue any more all I have to say If you listen to that ****** idiot you deserve to **** up yuor car and their is a differenc betwerrn a detailer and A bod shop tech ass hole

 

Listen to this guy if you want more area of your clear coat removed at an un-needed expense.





You would figure that after all the stuff i do to "screw up" my car, it would show. Search the site for more **** picture of my car.

 

I must apoligze for cursing at you but Componding will not remove more clear than sandin then polishin the sand marks out I just dont under stan why you think sand will not damage it more than just buffing, you still have to buff the sand marks out

 

k here, ill explain why i would use the sand.

There are only small little nicks and gouges that appear u can "feel" them. Its not 1 long scratch. If it was a long one I would compound to keep the area even.

sanding around the small nicks evens it out a bit but i wouldnt want to use the size of a pad to do it, sacrificing the whole area of the clear coat. In my mind it is like using an A-Bomb for 1 person when all you need is a gun.

2-3k grit is used by bodyshops all the time followed by a polish. Compound in itself is REALLY drastic to me since it really scuffs things up enough for me to see the scratches. In other words, it appears to be rougher.

sorry if i didnt edit this faster than u read it, i hate when people say i dont know anything when i can take an SOS pad to my car, make deep scratches, and them disappear with the hot blistering sun.

Infact, i plan on getting a new fender for my car because of a small shallower than hell ding (lambo door install). and may purposely drive a nail through the clear coat to show what im talking about.

 

Read previous post

 

I'm not the one that got the bright idea to take off badges with a credit card. Now as I stated earlier, that was dumb.

 

but u still need to polish the compound out. same as polishing the sanding.

Im not going to turn this in to a "im a better detailer than you" thing. Im only going off what i do that works. Maybe it is wrong since i dont do it proffesionally and obviously u do. From my experience compound has been more abrassive than wet sanding.

 

For the amount of time, money and effort that is going to have to be invested to remove these correctly, why not just find a local detailer and hammer out a price. They have the tools, materials, and products to do it easily, not to mention relatively quickly. It really comes down to whether you feel comfortable performing this level of correction yourself. Either way, good luck, and next time, think of your clear coat as the bottom of a CD, and just as easy to scratch

 

I have my old SS/SC front bumper that cracked and was replaced. I will make scratches in two spots and then try both methods on how to get them out! Since I have some decent scratches that I want to remove on my car as well and cant decide which method to use.

Both of you PM me the products to get and/or post it up here PLZ!!!

 

let me see the gouges u make with a pic pls

 

yes pics please, it depends on the sevarity of the damage on what products I or rrutter would recomend

 

Ok here we go, all the scratches are light to medium in deepness. Also the last three pics are of the actual scratches and cuts I want to get out.





These scratches go the legnth of the right front side and hood I already tried scratch doctor.


These pics are when I hit a gopher.... yes a ****** gopher and used touch up paint on one.

 

Well the marks on the bumper arn't gonna come out b/c the plastic is gouged but the hood you should be able to hand rub them out with 3M Perfect-it 06085 or 06086. thane go over it with a good swirl mark remover Preferably 3M 06064/06065

 

yea kinda just realized that with the bumper lol, o well, but what about the gopher!